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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: July 10, 2010, 9:27 am 
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Linseed oil. It is cheap at $30 or so per gallon at Lowes or Home Depot.
Boiled linseed oil has additives that speed the drying process from weeks to hours.
Do not eat it.

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360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
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PostPosted: July 11, 2010, 3:28 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Boiled linseed oil has additives that speed the drying process from weeks to hours.
Do not eat it.


NOW you tell me!!


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PostPosted: July 11, 2010, 9:22 am 
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:lol: Yeah, I know nobody would eat it. It probably stinks too. It is supposed to be good for you except for those darn additives. Yum.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: July 15, 2010, 11:24 pm 
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about that foam- anyone know if it might absorb moisture?

you an always get galvanized tube and spray the joints with galva-brite after you weld them :wink:

If you want to fill the frame with something, why not cut holes in the pipes at the joints so you can have flow between them?

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PostPosted: July 16, 2010, 9:02 am 
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knickly wrote:
about that foam- anyone know if it might absorb moisture?

you an always get galvanized tube and spray the joints with galva-brite after you weld them :wink:

If you want to fill the frame with something, why not cut holes in the pipes at the joints so you can have flow between them?


Unless you find a foam that specifically states 'water proof' it will soak up moisture and hold it against the tubes, also it's highly flammable, which makes welding tricky.


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PostPosted: July 16, 2010, 10:35 am 
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knickly wrote:
you an always get galvanized tube and spray the joints with galva-brite after you weld them :wink:


How can you spray tubes if you're dying from zinc poisoning?

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PostPosted: July 16, 2010, 9:10 pm 
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Laminar wrote:
knickly wrote:
you an always get galvanized tube and spray the joints with galva-brite after you weld them :wink:


How can you spray tubes if you're dying from zinc poisoning?



idk we do it every day at work... I would use a respirator (even a disposable would work) if it were me.
dilbert wrote:
knickly wrote:
about that foam- anyone know if it might absorb moisture?

you an always get galvanized tube and spray the joints with galva-brite after you weld them :wink:

If you want to fill the frame with something, why not cut holes in the pipes at the joints so you can have flow between them?


Unless you find a foam that specifically states 'water proof' it will soak up moisture and hold it against the tubes, also it's highly flammable, which makes welding tricky.


Thats what I was thinking- more of a sponge effect.

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PostPosted: September 23, 2011, 1:52 am 
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You could build it out of wood, but then termites would be a problem.


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PostPosted: September 23, 2011, 8:25 pm 
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I would run not walk away from the foam idea. Volkswagen use foam around the rear vents in the late60 to 70 Beetles. Trapped a lot of water turning into a lot of rust. And yes it burns real good when you try to weld a patch panel around it. We have had good results using Eastwood's internal frame spray.
Dave


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PostPosted: September 23, 2011, 8:32 pm 
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IA599 wrote:
You could build it out of wood, but then termites would be a problem.


You could build it out of wood and then it would be a MORGAN!!! :rofl:

:cheers:

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PostPosted: September 23, 2011, 10:37 pm 
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violentblue wrote:
drill a 1/8" hole in the solid tube where there is a joint.
it would make the chassis a single chamber, fill it with helium for weight reduction.


But won't it fly if you hit a big bump? Can you use heavy helium to avoid that?


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