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PostPosted: May 14, 2010, 9:46 pm 
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With the Subaru gearbox, the only thing that you could do initially would be to swap the selector forks around, this way the gears would be on the same sides but instead of shifting "down" to go from 1st to 2nd, you would be going "up"

Of course, you could fix the problem entirely and get a gear set from a place like PPG, they would be able to do the reverse pattern that would be needed

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PostPosted: May 15, 2010, 12:48 am 
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kiwibuilder wrote:
With the Subaru gearbox, the only thing that you could do initially would be to swap the selector forks around, this way the gears would be on the same sides but instead of shifting "down" to go from 1st to 2nd, you would be going "up"

Of course, you could fix the problem entirely and get a gear set from a place like PPG, they would be able to do the reverse pattern that would be needed


How are these guys doing it in the link I posted? Just shifting backwards?

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PostPosted: May 15, 2010, 8:36 am 
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They aren't using a rwd gearbox, they are using a fwd engine and gearbox that is rotated 90 degrees, they simply took the fwd shifter and modified it so the pattern would be the same

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PostPosted: May 17, 2010, 9:41 am 
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kiwibuilder wrote:
They aren't using a rwd gearbox, they are using a fwd engine and gearbox that is rotated 90 degrees, they simply took the fwd shifter and modified it so the pattern would be the same


Wrong link...I was talking about the link from the VW buggy forum, not the offroad forum where they guys are using the honda motor, but the one using the WRX and STI lay-outs.

I am curious since they turn it around 180 degrees.......... There shift pattern would be backward as well correct?

J. R.

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PostPosted: May 17, 2010, 11:32 am 
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worthingtontw wrote:
Because a Honda transaxle already has roughly a 4:1 diff depending on which on you purchase, if ran in conjunction with a typical diff you'd have a final drive ratio of 16:1. Good for off roading, horrid for road use.


Yes but I already said previously to run multiplex chains to regain the gearing, this also gives complete freedom of diff choice. Makes torque splitting adjustment an hours work as well - win, win.

This is the locost forum :-)


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PostPosted: May 17, 2010, 7:40 pm 
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I believe that because the gearbox would be mounted behind the shifter (ie, the shifter doesn't go directly into the gearbox) that they may have a set-up that would produce opposite movements at the box. Also they could change the selector forks around so that 1st and 2nd are on the left and 5th and reverse are on the right, the only problem with this is that 1st to 2nd would be and "upwards" movement rather then a "downwards" movement

Another option would be to get a sequential shifter for the 5 speed, or a gearset from a place like PPG, they would be able to do a reverse pattern

EDIT: at the bottom of that forum thread, there is a link to the website that sells the kit
http://www.subarugears.com/index.htm

One of the pages on that site explains the shifter mechanism required to get the correct shift pattern
http://www.subarugears.com/index_files/Page349.htm

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PostPosted: May 18, 2010, 8:44 am 
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kiwibuilder wrote:
I believe that because the gearbox would be mounted behind the shifter (ie, the shifter doesn't go directly into the gearbox) that they may have a set-up that would produce opposite movements at the box. Also they could change the selector forks around so that 1st and 2nd are on the left and 5th and reverse are on the right, the only problem with this is that 1st to 2nd would be and "upwards" movement rather then a "downwards" movement

Another option would be to get a sequential shifter for the 5 speed, or a gearset from a place like PPG, they would be able to do a reverse pattern

EDIT: at the bottom of that forum thread, there is a link to the website that sells the kit
http://www.subarugears.com/index.htm

One of the pages on that site explains the shifter mechanism required to get the correct shift pattern
http://www.subarugears.com/index_files/Page349.htm



Kiwibuilder...Ah good links. Thanks!

J. R.

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PostPosted: May 21, 2010, 12:23 pm 
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cheapracer wrote:

Yes but I already said previously to run multiplex chains to regain the gearing, this also gives complete freedom of diff choice. Makes torque splitting adjustment an hours work as well - win, win.

This is the locost forum :-)


But having said that as I have also already stated that adds two more places to have drive line issues no to mention the added complexity of having 4 drive shaft instead of two. For instance if you used a motorcycle chain and gear set (which you would because we are talking about locosts), you would spin the smaller gear at 4 times the speed not to mention that it is on the receiving end of the power where it has a fourth the amount of teeth to handle the load when its designed to transmit the load. There are equally cheap options that you could avoid these issue with.


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PostPosted: May 21, 2010, 12:55 pm 
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worthingtontw wrote:



But having said that as I have also already stated that adds two more places to have drive line issues no to mention the added complexity of having 4 drive shaft instead of two. .


You say "complexity" like it's a difficult or bad thing, it's only a couple of multiplex chains and a couple of sprockets no different to what can be found in millions of Mitsubishi and Toyota 4WD's.

worthingtontw wrote:
There are equally cheap options that you could avoid these issue with.


If you have a moment I always like to hear options ....


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PostPosted: May 21, 2010, 1:22 pm 
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nuttin for nuttin but i remember chain drive cars that ran a chain to each wheel... now that gets complex. there was even one a ridiculously huge airplane engine in one but i lost the link in a system crash. not always the safest system, been blamed for a few deaths over the years. a few semi forgotten historical notes, The 1907 Thomas Flyer that won the New York to Paris race in 1908 was chain drive, the Marmon Wasp, winner of the first Indy 500 was a chain drive, AP Macks (not meant for road service, specifically built for the Boulder Dam project, also chain drive) were rated at 7 1/2 tons....
ah yes, here it is in its TWENTY SEVEN LITER :ack: glory http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Babs_(Land_speed_record_car)

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PostPosted: May 21, 2010, 3:03 pm 
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This guy was chain driven. I'll see if I can find a better picture of the chain drive.
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PostPosted: May 21, 2010, 4:03 pm 
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cheapracer wrote:

You say "complexity" like it's a difficult or bad thing, it's only a couple of multiplex chains and a couple of sprockets no different to what can be found in millions of Mitsubishi and Toyota 4WD's.

If you have a moment I always like to hear options ....


The complexity is not in the design but in term of unneeded hardware. Also the multiplexing chain drives are either 1:1 ratios or gearing down, not gearing up using parts designed for the exact opposite purpose. Yes it would work but you have other options.

If you read from about half way down on page one through two Kiwi build and I both purposed ideas as far as taking east west type AWD trans axles and reorienting the rear output forward. The CRV gear box I cited sell for around $500 and an adapter plate can be made for very cheap.

oldejack wrote:
nuttin for nuttin but i remember chain drive cars that ran a chain to each wheel... now that gets complex. there was even one a ridiculously huge airplane engine in one but i lost the link in a system crash. not always the safest system, been blamed for a few deaths over the years. a few semi forgotten historical notes, The 1907 Thomas Flyer that won the New York to Paris race in 1908 was chain drive, the Marmon Wasp, winner of the first Indy 500 was a chain drive, AP Macks (not meant for road service, specifically built for the Boulder Dam project, also chain drive) were rated at 7 1/2 tons....
ah yes, here it is in its TWENTY SEVEN LITER :ack: glory http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Babs_(Land_speed_record_car)


I never said that it would not work but the key thing to consider in all of these applications is that the chain driven cars you cited are all geared down with chains, not up. Gearing up you have to be concerned about ripping the teeth off the smaller gear because again you are effectively quadrupling the torque applied to it is designed to handle. Smaller gears are good for rpm, not torque.


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PostPosted: May 31, 2010, 9:32 am 
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worthingtontw wrote:

a/ The complexity is not in the design but in term of unneeded hardware.

b/ I purposed ideas as far as taking east west type AWD trans axles and reorienting the rear output forward. The CRV gear box I cited sell for around $500 and an adapter plate can be made for very cheap.


c/ Gearing up you have to be concerned about ripping the teeth off the smaller gear because again you are effectively quadrupling the torque applied to it is designed to handle.


Your a/ and b/ are contradictory, whatever way you think your looking at it you are adding hardware and what you going to do when it breaks?

c/ Just buy the correct sprocket to suit.

Anyway, each to his own as this fellow did it his way, Ford XR4 Sierra 4x4 box and I don't know what diffs ...


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PostPosted: May 31, 2010, 9:41 am 
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The Converted wrote:
This guy was chain driven.
Image


I fixed your post to something modern...


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PostPosted: June 8, 2010, 1:44 am 
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cheapracer wrote:
The Converted wrote:
This guy was chain driven.
Image


I fixed your post to something modern...


I thought he switched to belt? :lol:

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