LocostUSA.com

Blacktop for $550
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-TOYO ... ccessories
silvertop for $365
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-TOYO ... ccessories

Not even worth working on the old 16v

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JSullivan

But you should keep it for mock up purposes for the turbo ...

Moti

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Moti

My R1 powered Locost build log

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I was looking at that black top. I don't know about you guys but I have a hard time beliving the "40,000 to 60,000 miles" and "from an auto trans". They can just tell you what you want to hear. Plus it looks like the top is spray painted black. lol

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+442 - Miata

I have heard not so great things about JDM engines. One of the problems is that some small parts are in different places compared to the American engines. That shouldn't be a problem for fitment but it might make some parts different in the case that you break something. I would recommending going to a dismantlement and finding an engine there.

The garage has been too cold to work in for the past few weeks. The weather finally let up a little this week and a I was able to get some headers cut and tacked together.

I also fell victim to the same HF tubing expander as Moti. I already had bought it before I read his review so I figured what the heck....completely cracked all of the mandrels trying to make a slip connection and left a nasty looking flared collector. After doing some research, I found out that even though its called a tube expander, its only supposed to be used to remove dents created by u-bolts.....thanks HF for mentioning this. So if you didn't read Moti's post, don't waste $7.99.

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-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

Can you post some details, parts, and prices on your steering setup? I don't want a current steering column. I want a bare bones wheel/disconnect/rods and u-joints.

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2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970

I used a column from speedway that looks just like this one from sweet mfg. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LONGER-SW ... ,6843.html. The speedway column is not shown on there website, but it is in there newest catalog. It is $50 cheaper that the Sweet mfg. one, also it comes with a quick release.

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TSuppa
"Alimony is like buying Hay for a dead horse"
'86 Alfa Spider Quad
'79 Alfa Spider Veloce
http://tomsuppa.blogspot.com/

The 3/4" 48 spline shafts and u-joints came from Dans Performance Parts.
If you order a steering wheel from them, call ahead. I ordered one of the fake leather ones back at Christmas and its still backordered.

Southwest Speed also sells longer sections of splined tubing for steering shafts if needed.

The quick release is made by Rebco and sold at Summit.

Summit stopped carrying this one under their name and Grant started selling it for double the price but after I bought that Rebco one, I found Speedway started carrying the same one for the same price as Summit used to sell it for. If I hadn't already bought the Rebco one, I'd get this one...its much nicer.

Aside from that, the tube in the chassis is a piece of 1"x0.065" DOM, the mounts are 2"x1"x0.065" or 1"x1"x0.065 ERW, and the flanged bronze bushings are 7/8" OD, 3/4" ID from McMaster.

I eventually plan on integrating a mount just behind the first u-joint to stabilize that center section. It will be designed to break away to allow the column to buckle if needed.

Including the rack, my steering system as it sits now has set me back about $180.

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-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

yea i was looking at that speedway motors one. $180 is a good price for a nice setup that is light but high quality. Thanks for all the info... once my stuff on ebay sells im thinking about picking up a column like that. I have a colapsable shaft from an IP that was being thrown out at work, so i want to see if i can make that work first.

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2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970

Nice work on the header.
These are some long primaries!

Did you check the clearance with the wheel at full lock?

Moti

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Moti

My R1 powered Locost build log

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Its probably a good thing the wheel isn't a full lock most of the time or else I may have to deal with composite melting.

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-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

I've given up on the 4AGE. I called over 40 yards, none of which had any engines, and drove over 2 hours to several yards that claimed to have 4AGEs only to find they were first generation 4AFEs (even after telling me over the phone it was a 4AGE).

The Duratec was one of my original engine choices for its light weight and wide array of donors but due to price, I didn't want to go down that road if I didn't have to. Seeing as I refuse to over $500 for a 20+ year old engine that I can't even hear run, it made the decision of getting a more modern engine much easier.

So a 2007 2.0L Duratec from a Focus and 2007 Miata 5-speed it is now and I'm going down a similar powertrain path as mconley.

Fortunately, I only needed to redo one chassis tube to make the engine and transmission fit. Once the hoist points are removed, it actually seems like I'll have decent hood clearance as well. Losing the massive 4AGE intake will also help a lot. Right now I have about 3" of pan clearance. I may shim the engine mounts up 1/2" to gain a little more if need-be.

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-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

a.moore,
Wow, that looks nice! I think you made a wise choice!

SamM

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1964 Lotus Seven Replica

Good move.
You could probably post the header that you built for the toyota in the classifieds.

Moti

_________________
Moti

My R1 powered Locost build log

Visit the Blackbird Fabworx Facebook Page!

I hope so. The Duratec seems like a fairly capable engine that doesn't weigh a lot. I'm just happy I got to hear it run before it was disassembled. Atleast I know if it doesn't start now, its my fault.

I'll probably be placing that along with the rest of the 4AGE stuff up for sale in the near future.

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-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube