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PostPosted: November 18, 2010, 2:31 am 
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Did you machine the part with the female threads and holding the bolt?

If not, what is it?

If so, why didn't you turn cut the male threads as well?

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PostPosted: November 18, 2010, 1:07 pm 
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I did machine the parts.
Given that rolled threads are stronger than cut threads, I figured out that sticking a bolt in would be stronger than machining the threads.
Maybe it doesn't make that much of a difference, but it's done now and that's what's important :wink:

Moti

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PostPosted: November 18, 2010, 2:49 pm 
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Maybe it's just my eyesight, but the weld at the outside end of your tie rod near where the ball joint connects makes the rod itself look like it's a much smaller diameter than the rest of the piece. As if the weld melted it down to a smaller size. Make sense?

Is that a weak link?

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PostPosted: November 18, 2010, 11:08 pm 
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So, did you turn the whole main piece from a single piece of hex rod? Or weld two tubes to a nut in the middle? I'm having a hard time picturing it, and am very curious.

-dave

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PostPosted: November 18, 2010, 11:18 pm 
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Carguy, it must be an optical illusion, the welded section is probably a good milimeter+ thicker than the threads, I'll load a better pic later.

Dave, yes the piece was turned out of a solid hex stock.

I got most of the radiator ducting done today, pics to come later.

Moti

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PostPosted: November 19, 2010, 5:00 am 
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Pics as promised.

Carguy, you can see in this pic that the solid center of the threaded part is narrower than the welded section.

With the rad ducting, I did it a bit differently than I've seen in most build logs in the sense of bridging the gap between the rad and the nosecone rather than simply sealing the rad with the nose cone in a flat sheet as I've seen it being done many times.
Main reason is the issue that I have with the way that the nosecone looks when it's done - it always look a bit unfinished to me.
This one make my eyes happier :wink: .
BTW the aluminum is 0.050" thickness 5052 alloy.

Moti


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PostPosted: November 19, 2010, 6:11 am 
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great sheet metal work!!

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PostPosted: November 19, 2010, 10:20 am 
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Oh Damn.... Artistry, Moti, sheer artistry...

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PostPosted: November 19, 2010, 11:48 am 
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Ohhhh! I like that aluminum air ducting.

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PostPosted: November 19, 2010, 9:52 pm 
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Thanks guys :cheers:
GonzoRacer wrote:
sheer artistry...

Air shears to be exact, as well as band saw, die grinder, dead blow hammer and a belt sander :lol:

Moti

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PostPosted: November 20, 2010, 4:13 pm 
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Blackbird wrote:

With the rad ducting, I did it a bit differently than I've seen in most build logs in the sense of bridging the gap between the rad and the nosecone rather than simply sealing the rad with the nose cone in a flat sheet as I've seen it being done many times.
Main reason is the issue that I have with the way that the nosecone looks when it's done - it always look a bit unfinished to me.
This one make my eyes happier :wink: .
Moti


You mean like this :oops:
Image

Yhea agree you solution in more pleasing.

Great work Moti, keep en comming !!!

Cheers,

Fred


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PostPosted: November 20, 2010, 6:38 pm 
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Blackbird wrote:
Thanks guys :cheers:
GonzoRacer wrote:
sheer artistry...

Air shears to be exact, as well as band saw, die grinder, dead blow hammer and a belt sander


Ya know, Moti, I've kinda accepted that you're a better metal worker/designer/fabricator than I am. But when you out-do me at being a Smart-Ass, that hurts my pride...

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Good one, Bro!
:cheers:
JD

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PostPosted: December 19, 2010, 9:34 pm 
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Moti,

Saw some time in the past on your log you had a t bird half shaft beside your stock Miata shafts. Did you send them out to get custom made shafts? If so, to who?

I am using a 95 Miata rear hubs with a Sierra differential. Looking for someone good (and reasonable) to do the custom shafts.

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PostPosted: December 20, 2010, 12:10 am 
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ooohh - I really like the nose cone/radiator work...I'll probably copy you :lol:

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PostPosted: December 20, 2010, 4:52 pm 
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Neat nose. I'll probably copy that also.


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