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PostPosted: February 23, 2008, 12:08 pm 
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Joined: October 10, 2006, 9:56 am
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Location: Maryland
The tail lights are these I think. They do look a lot like the old MG/Triumph/Morris tail lights.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Harley-D ... 0201729794

How were these wired for turn signals? There are only two wires, one for running lights and one for brake. Looks like you would also have to run a ground wire, it doesn't have one.

Mark


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PostPosted: February 23, 2008, 8:14 pm 
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Joined: April 11, 2006, 10:27 pm
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Location: Murfreesboro TN
Yep, that is them, I added an extra bulb in there for the turn signal. I looked for a long time to try and find them again and never could. Good job, thanks.

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PostPosted: March 11, 2009, 5:18 am 
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From what I've heard, lexan gets scratched very easily. How are the windows looking so far from the gravel and stones bouncing off of it and such? I'm interested because I want to make my future Locost all-weather compatible and not a lot of Locosters even bother to make a tonneau...


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 Post subject: Re: Sprint with doors
PostPosted: March 11, 2009, 7:44 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
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From what I've heard, lexan gets scratched very easily. How are the windows looking so far from the gravel and stones bouncing off of it and such?


Windows made from Lexan are prone to scratches, I put scratches on my windows before I even got on the road. I had just completed the doors and cleaned the dust off them before the first test run with paper towels and left scratches on the surface.

They should only be cleaned with soft cotton Dave W


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PostPosted: March 11, 2009, 10:53 pm 
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They do scratch pretty easy :cry: but there is some stuff which will clean them and remove the scratches. Haven't got any yet but will sometime. They don't scratch as easy as the soft plastic windows Caterham use. :roll:

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PostPosted: October 5, 2009, 1:54 pm 
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Location: Mankato MN
Considering that Lexan scratches so easily, could one put some clear window tint/film and protect the lexan? Or would that be more hassle than its worth?

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PostPosted: December 27, 2009, 12:26 am 
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Joined: December 8, 2009, 11:40 pm
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Location: Mostly near Stokesdale, NC
Nice ride, love the top. I've been trying to figure one into my final design. I need to keep the rain off when its raining.

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PostPosted: December 27, 2009, 12:52 am 
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Thanks. I hadn't realized I had not posted a finshed shot with it working. Here is proof it works.
Attachment:
Copy of DSCF2070.JPG


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PostPosted: December 27, 2009, 11:33 am 
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Joined: April 22, 2009, 3:30 pm
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Location: Fairfield, CT
Nice! I like the detail of extending the paint line onto the door, very professional. Overall a really impressive car, thanks for sharing.

EB


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PostPosted: October 5, 2010, 4:08 pm 
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Joined: October 1, 2010, 5:14 pm
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Wow, Earley! These pictures are great! Your vehicle is looking super awesome! I don't have any sort of experience with building, but I personally find the look of it to be fantastic. I'm hoping that by the beginning of next month, I'll have my kit ready and I'll be able to fix myself up a nice car. The only issue I'm confronted with is that it won't look nearly as nice as this. . . if it'll work at all. :P

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PostPosted: October 11, 2010, 9:23 pm 
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Wow, the top and doors really look nice :)

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PostPosted: December 12, 2010, 12:07 am 
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Thanks for the comments guys. I can tell you this, during the 2010 Mid-West gathering we were caught in very heavy rain so I put the top up but the doors were back at the hotel. The wind at 50-60 and the amount of water coming off the front wheels made a whirl wind in the inside so you definitely need the doors in the rain with the top up. I ended up pretty wet and with as much water on the inside of the windshield as the outside, but not near as wet as the guys with no top. Hopefully we won't get rain at the 2011 event but if we do, I will put the doors on. :lol: :cheers:

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PostPosted: December 12, 2010, 11:05 am 
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Location: Shawnee, Ks
Graham, I love your doors also. Looking at the pic's, are they flush with the body or do they overlap the body? They look flush. If flush how the heck do you seal them? My car has two problems with fitting doors.The mirrors are in the way of the hinges and the rear wings (fenders) are the same level as the body ie: no step to be used as a door stop. Russ

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PostPosted: December 12, 2010, 2:07 pm 
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Joined: November 27, 2010, 6:06 pm
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Location: Nelson BC
Graham, What material did you use for the hoops? It looks like you mounted them to the base of the roll bar.Do you have any pics of them? Clayton


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PostPosted: December 12, 2010, 4:14 pm 
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Russ, they overlap the body but only just along the bottom and rear. The front does not. A weatherstrip seals the door to the body. It is not waterproof but keeps out the most of it.
Clayton. When you say the hoops, are you talking about the top bows? If so, these are tube which are attached to a small tab about 3/4" x 1" welded to the frame. This is also where the rear quarter panel extension attaches to latch the door on.
There are no snaps anywhere for attachment. Draw latches (4) attach the rear and the front header bow. Has never blown off even at just on three digits. I have a bikini top also that attaches to the windshield (same mounts as top) and just lays over the roll bar and bungies to the rear. That works good too and has seen higher speeds than the top. Drove to a friends in Indiana on a very sunny day (just over 300 miles) and no sun burn on my head. Little things like these make driving a 7 a lot more comfortable. I hope I answered your questions, if not let me know and I will try harder. :cheers:

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