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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 3:42 am 
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Joined: Mon May 24, 2010 6:10 am
Posts: 53
Location: Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
I have finished the front suspensions bell cranks. I have used oil impregnated nylon for the bushes. The brakets are made out of 3mm mild steel plate punched out and welded to the centre mount.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 7:33 am 
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Nice fabrication skills.
I understand the need for the notch, but it greatly weakened the arm. The depth of the notch should be added with a gusset above the arm across the top.

Down the road, if you find the wear rate to be high in this application for nylon, uhmw is a good, long wearing replacment.

Don't forget to triangulate the load path through the floor.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 3:21 am 
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Joined: Mon May 24, 2010 6:10 am
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Location: Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
The latest progress for my build. The suspension is all done. I have used 05 GSXR 750 shocks.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 10:52 pm 
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Location: Spanish Fork, UT
In a John Wayne accent: "Thats a nice looking wagon...er, car you have there, partner." Maybe Jack can use those wheels on his x-prize car.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 4:07 am 
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Joined: Mon May 24, 2010 6:10 am
Posts: 53
Location: Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Oh the "Wagon wheels". They are a little narrow but they are cheap and are sure to produce plenty of Smoke. :cheers:


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 10:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 24, 2010 6:10 am
Posts: 53
Location: Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Here are the latest progress photos. The chassis has been sand blasted due to surface rust and under coated. The body panels are just temporary to give me an idea of what it will look when completed.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 1:30 am 
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looking very sweet!! keep it up..


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 1:04 am 
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Location: Baton Rouge, LA
I wish you luck on completing your build. Between the wagon wheels and the dog feet sticking out the bottom (ala Flintstones power) I lost it. :D

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 1:07 am 
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Joined: Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:19 pm
Posts: 49
Watch your head on those roll hoops


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 2:50 am 
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Joined: Mon May 24, 2010 6:10 am
Posts: 53
Location: Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Time for an update. Finally the motor is in. Its a kawasaki ZX10r 05 motor. The diff is mounted on dummy cw mounts at the moment. I will have these cut out of ali once im happy with there design.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 12:56 pm 
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Very nice build! One thought however, have you considered changing the headlights? Some yamaha r1 lights would take it to another level. More sleek and stealthy look/vibe


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 5:02 am 
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with such a diff setup you will have a large bending force on that upper tube that holds the diff... you need to brace the diff against the engine..

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 10:35 am 
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Nice work Paigeo. The car is shaping up nicely.

Along the lines of Kiki's suggestion - since the bearings supporting the diff are closer to the bottom, that set of mounts will carry the greatest load (well actually the one closest to the sprocket will carry the greatest and the other one will probably be ~1/4 that just eyeballing your differential dimensions) so it would probably be easier to make those fixed and to make the upper ones adjustable. If you place the slotted mounts on the top, you can run a set of turnbuckles forward to the engine and they will always end up in compression (no need to worry about impact loads fatiguing the rod-ends and causing them to fail).

If you are not done yet, I would consider reinforcing those lower mounts to at least double shear 0.090" mild steel. Impact loads on solid mounted drive train parts are huge.

A picture is worth a thousand words - My Alma Mater did a nice job of eliminating some unneeded metal and simplifying the differential mounting on the 2011 car. Having a tube to support the upper mounts isn't really necessary of you direct the loads correctly.

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This is what you want to try avoid doing. The ends of the links are over contained so any flex places the links in bending. Plus the small (1/4" diameter I believe) unrated threaded rod is always in tension. Yea...it failed.

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I would also try to avoid making any of the differential mounts cantilevered off of the tube if possible. Keeping the loads being fed into the tube in tension/compression will probably keep your life the easiest.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 5:11 am 
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Joined: Mon May 24, 2010 6:10 am
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Location: Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Painting all done. Now for the final assembly.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 9:42 pm 
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I love how you kept the motorcycle handlebar controls behind the steering wheel. :cheers:


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