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Some more pictures of the front end with the tie rod coupler construction and starting on the rear hubs.

Boring out the 1/2 inch holes for sleeves.

I am going to put a coupler on the two bolts to lock them together.

Now that we can up load CAD files I thought I would put my Mazda KL engine to RX7 transmission adapter files on the board.
I hope that they help some one. I would like to say I personaly do not have my engine started yet but They have been used in a miata that's being used in autocross.

Nice job on your oval tubing. I saw your question on bump travel and seems you came to a good number. This is a good time to make sure that it travels thru it's full range without binding. It would be bad if it hangs on your steering ball joint at full droop. You should even check it with the wheel turned in and out.

If you find it's an issue you could bend the steering arm or work out something else. I can't tell from your pictures, but this is also the time to do a check for bump steer.

Your doing great. It's going to be car someday!

Well it’s been awhile but I’m still after it. I got the shock mounts done with the front I incorporated the head light support using a piece of the oval tubing.
As for bump steer with all my careful measurements and placement of the rack I ended up with a lot of toe out on bump, You can see in the picture that the rack is way too high and moving it down would create the same conflict with the A arm as the miata builds. After weighing the options I went with heating and bending the steering arm of the spindle with the result of near zero bump steer using a laser on the garage door twenty feet away (less then ¼ inch).
I then took the rear sway bar from the RX-7 rebent the ends and mounted it in the front.
I am now working on adapting the alternator from the RX-7 to the KL engine pictures to follow.

I not sure what happened to the pictures but here they are.I hope that the headlight doesn’t shake to much with the shock forces in the same area? If it does I think I’ll run a strut from the shock bolt to the lower frame. I am going to finish welding the bottom when I can turn over the frame.
Some shots of the alternator mount.
Just enough room. If I would have put another U joint in the steering shaft thing would have been better. As the alternator had a V belt pulley and the engine uses the serpentine type I turned a replacement. I still have to make a mount for the sump pump on the other side and will have to use a jackshaft most likely.

A little more progress I worked on the wipers some. After a lot of brain work (for me that is) I decided to use what I had from the doner but the shafts were to short so I removed the arms and welded on 1.5 inches of ½ inch rod then turned it down to original size, welded the arms back on then made up longer sleeves that I will weld to some brackets after I figure out where the windshield sets.
Spent three days going through the wiring harness removing none essentials then decided it was time to cut some holes in the dash and install the switches.
The RX7 knobs don't fit in with my theme so I’m turning some aluminum covers for the plastic here are some pictures of the wiper switch.

I like those knobs. Cool. Also. how did you do the engine turning on the panel. Abrasive pad?, wire brush?. do tell. Thanks.

Thanks I'm working on the rest today. I used an abrasive pad for the dash, go to page 5 to see how I did it.

It sure takes time to make some knobs and mount the switches. Here is a picture of the left side again with the new knobs from the top; the hazard flasher, starter button, and wiper with the interval adjustment knob inside. The head light switch is mounted on the right side but I still need to turn that knob.

I got the headlight and turn switches installed. I put the turn signal switch in the center in front of the shifter as the dash is to far away to use it without removing my hands anyway. I ran a clear plastic dowel through the turn switch and in the hazard switch for the indicator lights.

Beautiful workmanship! Your dash is a work of art. Can't wait to see it finished.

Thanks the stainless is a bit grungy and dull from being exposed in the shop while I work on the car. I guess I will need to wax it when I'm done to keep it looking good. The car is going to take another slowdown (from slow to glacial) as I’m working 6 days a week for a month, four hours away in Merced. This is actually a good thing as I will have some money to spend on the car.
I’m trying to work on the wiring harness and finding the best way to route it is puzzling. I decided to mount the battery over the passenger footwell as opposed to the rear end and I made a sunken box to fit the area out of stainless. I lose a little toe room but hay there not my toes.

Just a post to show the powers to be that I'm alive.
My work situation is such that I dare not spend any money that I may need later for food, so things are still on hold. I am trying to get the headers laid out.

I thought there was a kl build on here somewhere! Fantastic!

You have some nice details. I love The KL V6, it has the same "tone" as the Alfa Busso engine. It's really nicely engineered and was one of the motors I wanted to use in the future.

Thanks for the comments. I'm looking forward to getting this car running. When I bought the engine I was buying a KLDE locally for $50 more then if I traveled another 60 miles. When I got it home and checked it out I found I had a KLZE a nice added 30+HP.

bremms - I like your comment that I have some nice details, that's the way I see my build, this last year it's been sitting and I see many things I would do differently but I like some of the details.

Sorry no build update other then work will be slowing down and the wife has OKed some spending. I should be getting wheels and tires in the next few days and Jack has a new order in the Kinetic inbox.