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 Post subject: Re: Grand Am spindles
PostPosted: May 23, 2010, 8:34 pm 
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Dave FoxDavies wrote:
Here are some measurements I have taken off a Grand Am spindle. This is the Aluminium spindle from a 99 ( and later) 5th generation GA. I took these meassurements using a steel rule on a surface, so they may be subject to some error, but they are very close. The pivot point of the lower ball joint is aligned with the lower surface of the wishbone mounting plate.

bummer it didn't include the pics using the quote function.
so lets see if i'm seeing this right'
6 mm trail, 115 mm steering arm length and what appears to be 0 degrees ackerman if you put the upper pivot in plane with the lower pivot?

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 Post subject: Focus / Mazda uprights
PostPosted: June 8, 2010, 3:30 pm 
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the pictures didn't copy thru but the thread address is;
http://www.oz-clubbies.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5883&st=180
individual item weights are included for the most part.



Up right thread.

Several people are converting the Focus / Mazda uprights to suit front and rear applications.

I will add some details as I get them.


The smaller unit is off the rear and the larger unit is off the front. The drive shaft passes through the larger unit for FWD.

Reduced: 62% of original size [ 1024 x 768 ] - Click to view full image


MAZDA 3 From Ian R

Watch out there are differences from Focus to Mazda 3 uprights, not only the stud PCD drive shafts diams are different from Focus to Mazda 3 and also differ in the Mazda 3 range early Mazda 3 fill fit Focus drive shafts, smaller diam and bolt in the end of the shaft later Mazda 3 have larger diam shafts with a nut on the end.
I have a combination on my car Late Mazda 3 on the front and Early Mazda 3 with Focus drive shafts on the rear one BIG problem is the weight of these units very heavy, my wheel , upright, disc, caliper comes in at 40 kgs per corner, way too much weight for a light car I think


Another diff with early and late Mazda 3 is the length of the nose on the hubs my rims fitted the late model uprights OK but the nose on the early ones is 3.0 mm longer so the rims would not mate withe the flange fitted some 3.0mm spacers and all is OK now.

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$


Focus front bearings

Wheel Bearing Part Number: 510056

Type Wheel Bearing
Manufacture Wheel Bearings Inc
Available to Worldwide
Manufactured In Gaylord, MI, USA
Application:

510056

Front Wheel 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006 Ford Focus Bearing only

Part No: 510056

Make Model Position Year Application Location
FORD - FRONT DRIVE Focus FRONT WHEEL 2000-2008

Specifications:

Description Value
ABS/Non-ABS Y
Bore (B) Inches 1.5354
Bore (B) MM 39
OD (D) Inches 2.8346
OD (D) MM 72
Pass Y
Tone Ring / Sensor / Encoder E
Width (W) Inches 1.4567
Width (W) MM 37



From Graham Lewis

The Focus front wheel bearing have a split inner race. You will require something (I used a substantial bolt and very strong washer) to replace the end of the drive shaft, to maintain the correct clearance in the bearing.




$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Rear bearings are

Timken
516007

Measures
Bore=1.1417
2.0866" in diameter and 1.4567" in width

30mm Inside diameter 53mm Outer Diam 37mm wide





This is the Focus front upright. Left is standard, Right has the rear rotor and rear caliper with its hand brake feature

Reduced: 62% of original size [ 1023 x 547 ] - Click to view full image


You can see the offset in the mounting point and the caliper.



I have braced it in place so you can see the rotation required to mount the caliper. This needs some work.




Focus rotor dimensions. Rough as I measured at night.

Front
A 278
B 147
C 154
D 23 MIN
E 50
F add 25mm to radius

Back

A 265
B 163 inside the inner brake face stepping down to 143 inside the top hat
C 154
D 8 MIN
E 43
F add 30mm to radius The handbrake spring might need even more room.

Wheel Bore diameter 63.4mm






Focus front upright is 7kg. Includes bearing, hub and wheel studs.
Focus front caliper and hose is 5kg
Focus front Rotor is 7kg

Total when weighed together is 19kg. (conveniently 7+7+5 = 19)
Using bathroom scales.



Hub / spindle removed for the upright.


Distance between the ball joints from left to right is 1500mm when looking from under car up at the lower wish bones measuring from the centre of the lower cover plate side to side. The arms were horizontal when measured.
765mm and 635mm for the mounting points.


Reduced: 62% of original size [ 1022 x 393 ] - Click to view full image

Se also Ball Joints
http://www.oz-clubbies.com/forums/index ... t&p=106403

--------------------

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PostPosted: September 14, 2010, 9:25 pm 
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Last edited by foxk56 on December 20, 2019, 12:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: October 5, 2010, 6:46 pm 
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Last edited by foxk56 on December 20, 2019, 12:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: October 5, 2010, 11:48 pm 
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Nice work. It would also be pretty cool if you modeled them with the ball joints installed to help folks figure out the suspension geometry. Maybe an ES2074R up top, stock miata lower BJ and outer tie rod ball.

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PostPosted: October 6, 2010, 1:11 am 
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foxk56 wrote:
It's taken a couple nights of work, but I have created a '90-'93 Miata rear spindle in Solidworks. It's certainly not perfect, but the important dimensions are pretty close I believe. I have both right and left rears. The way I did it was to create the right rear spindle first, and then made a copy of it and mirrored it to create the left rear spindle (then made the original hidden). If any of you would like them, email me at kenyon(dot)jason(at)gmail(dot)com.

I'll be making the front spindles in the near future as well.

For the benefit of people without 3D CAD in their lives, I have dimensioned foxk56's model of the rear upright.


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PostPosted: October 6, 2010, 7:46 am 
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chetcpo wrote:
Nice work. It would also be pretty cool if you modeled them with the ball joints installed to help folks figure out the suspension geometry. Maybe an ES2074R up top, stock miata lower BJ and outer tie rod ball.


I plan to do almost exactly that when I get some time. I have a couple ES2074R's shipping to me and have a couple stock miata lower ball joints as well. Although I don't plan on having a the steering tie rod anytime soon. If somebody could give me the distance from the steering arm hole to the center of the ball, I can mock that up.

Thanks for the dimensioning skou!

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PostPosted: October 12, 2010, 8:36 am 
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For anybody else that wants the CAD models of the Miata spindles I created, please visit this thread which will direct you to my CAD wiki website. And while you're there, if you have some of your own CAD models to share, post them up or email them to me to post: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=11083

The spindle models on the wiki are in .STEP format so as to be a universal download for people, but if anybody has Solidworks 2010 you can still email me to ask for the SW files if you want those instead.

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PostPosted: May 9, 2011, 8:44 am 
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I have become "common" :ack:

I am running out of time and had to make some mods to my existing home built uprights so I went out and bought Toyota HiAce ones to just bolt on. I'll mod my own at a later date.

Difference where I am is that 2 uprights, 2 steering arms, 2 hubs, 4 bearings to suit and complete set of hardware including wheel studs and nuts all brand new = $90. Oh and 2 upper ball joints that will be used as lowers (the original lowers are massive, no wonder they sell so well in Africa!)

Now thats Locost :wink:


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PostPosted: August 29, 2011, 12:02 pm 
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Some reading about Corvette C4 and C5 spindles with dimensions and converting a Solstice spindle to Corvette hubs along with some other interesting ideas ...

http://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-br ... indle.html


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PostPosted: October 6, 2011, 9:30 pm 
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I forgot to take a picture, but I had some DJM 2" drop spindles for a 94 C1500 pickup under my bench.

The weights are knuckles only. The brakes are large, but heavy also. I may pull off a stock knuckle to compare it.

Image

google photo
Image


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PostPosted: October 6, 2011, 11:38 pm 
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Thanks for taking the time to give us the info.

Those must be some sturdy spindles! Just for comparison the British spindles used on Spitfire, Lotus etc. I just weighed at 2.347 Kg. So they are close to 1/4 the weight. Much more suitable for a small light car. There aren't many places to just save 25 lbs. on these cars but that would be a good place to do it.

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PostPosted: January 8, 2012, 10:59 pm 
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Norm wrote:
Chetcpo asked so here's my contribution:

Upright is from a Caterham non-wide track with the trunnion front lower wishbone attach. Accuracy is between .01" and .1" I'd say. If you need a particular measurement more accurately let me know and I'll try to measure it. KPI is within +- 1 degree or so.

These dimensions are from a vintage Triumph service manual. The "late type" vertical link was used by Caterham before 2003 when they went to a "trunnionless" design.

Attachment:
Herald-Vitesse-Spitfire Steering Arm.jpg

Attachment:
Herald-Vitesse-Spitfire Uprights.jpg


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PostPosted: January 8, 2012, 11:57 pm 
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Thanks Steve. Those are very good parts. They are several pounds lighter then a Miata part, close to half if I recall correctly. They commonly have a spacer welded on replacing the trunnion.

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PostPosted: January 9, 2012, 3:58 am 
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Some more detail I came across on the early Alford & Alder/Triumph Vitesse vertical links.


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