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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 6:46 pm 
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More progress.... framed out the back half of the chassis. Looks like i'm building a nascar truck!

Cant wait for it to be a roller!!

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:14 am 
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Small update. Still waiting on rear suspension parts to come so I decided to tackle the task of bending square .065 large radius for the body frame work. Do you see any similarities? I'm going to do my best to replicate my favorite Cam-am era car, the Porsche 917/10! ALso mocked up the radiator
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Plus i've been working on wing profiles. I'm using a bunch of calculators and it looks like i'm getting 500lbs of downforce with only minimal drag @ 100mph and 1300lbs of DF @150mph! with 100+ lbs of drag. I'm working with an online CNC/laser machine shop to cut all my parts out.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 7:39 pm 
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Rollin... 72" width 110" WB

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 8:26 pm 
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Boy that looks strange without a motor or anything. Looks like you need to push your seat back.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 9:29 pm 
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carguy123 wrote:
Boy that looks strange without a motor or anything. Looks like you need to push your seat back.



Seat is exactly where it will be, 15 gal fuel cell is going right behind the seat.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 10:54 pm 
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I presumed as much, I was just saying that without all the other stuff it looks odd. I'm sure that once you get the other pieces things will begin to fall into place.

Looking at a traditional Locost at that same stage it has some strange looks too.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 7:32 am 
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carguy123 wrote:
I presumed as much, I was just saying that without all the other stuff it looks odd. I'm sure that once you get the other pieces things will begin to fall into place.

Looking at a traditional Locost at that same stage it has some strange looks too.



I agree... once we get the V8 back there with F1 style exhaust coming up out of the top it will look beautiful :D


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 11:19 am 
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kingkyle wrote:


I agree... once we get the V8 back there with F1 style exhaust coming up out of the top it will look beautiful :D



That would make even an ugly girl look beautiful.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 7:30 pm 
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Am I safe to assume that the motor will be mounted with plates on the bellhousing and front of the engine? It would stiffen the rear of the car and make the engine a "semi" stressed part of the chassis. Engine plates are readily available for the bellhousing area from many circle track suppliers but you may have to make one for the front as I am not sure what the pattern is on these motors.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 12:54 am 
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egoman wrote:
Am I safe to assume that the motor will be mounted with plates on the bellhousing and front of the engine? It would stiffen the rear of the car and make the engine a "semi" stressed part of the chassis. Engine plates are readily available for the bellhousing area from many circle track suppliers but you may have to make one for the front as I am not sure what the pattern is on these motors.
There are several people who offer front/mid plates for the LSx engine.

http://www.competitionengineering.com/c ... Code=11073

http://www.burkhartchassis.com/id88.html

http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/

I understand that Stenod Performance and Fab-Jet Services may also be potential suppliers. There may be other quality plate suppliers as well.

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 8:40 am 
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Thanks guys! I found a bunch online. Only issue is I dont weld aluminum so I'd need to find a smaller steel one that I could costom fab with. Getting one cut out for me might be an option.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 10:57 am 
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Framed out the front clam.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 4:14 pm 
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kingkyle wrote:
Thanks guys! I found a bunch online. Only issue is I dont weld aluminum so I'd need to find a smaller steel one that I could costom fab with. Getting one cut out for me might be an option.
Aluminum welding not required to use the aluminum engine plates. Just weld several steel tabs to your frame at the appropriate places and trim the aluminum front-plate and mid-plate outer ends to mate with those tabs. Drill the plate and the tabs and bolt the driveline up.
The mounting tabs could also be incorporated into bracing added to the engine bay sides for additional strength.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 1:37 pm 
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seattletom wrote:
kingkyle wrote:
Thanks guys! I found a bunch online. Only issue is I dont weld aluminum so I'd need to find a smaller steel one that I could costom fab with. Getting one cut out for me might be an option.
Aluminum welding not required to use the aluminum engine plates. Just weld several steel tabs to your frame at the appropriate places and trim the aluminum front-plate and mid-plate outer ends to mate with those tabs. Drill the plate and the tabs and bolt the driveline up.
The mounting tabs could also be incorporated into bracing added to the engine bay sides for additional strength.



So the front mount plate mounts where on the block? Between the bell and block? Or the front of the block? And where would you guys suggest I tie the plate into? The main roll hoop + the middle section of the chassis floor?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 3:51 pm 
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Quote:
So the front mount plate mounts where on the block? Between the bell and block? Or the front of the block? And where would you guys suggest I tie the plate into? The main roll hoop + the middle section of the chassis floor?
The front plate goes between the block and the waterpump, the mid-plate between the block and the bellhousing. See pics below. The first pic shows both front and mid plates mounted to a tubular (front engine) chassis without the engine in place. The second one shows a front plate fixed to an LS engine without the water pump mounted. They should give you some idea of how it all goes together.

One approach to fitting engine plates to your chassis would be to bolt up the block and transaxle, including the front and mid plates, locate this in the chassis where you want it relative to your rear axle line. Then position and weld steel tabs to the chassis, drill the plates/tabs and bolt the driveline in place. You might also consider adding verticle tubes to the chassis engine bay for greater strength and attaching the tabs (or flanges) to these instead. You could also triangulate these verticles along the sides for added chassis stiffness.


Attachments:
FrameInShop.jpg
FrameInShop.jpg [ 151.55 KiB | Viewed 1119 times ]
LS motor plate one-fourth aluminum - 1.jpg
LS motor plate one-fourth aluminum - 1.jpg [ 40.87 KiB | Viewed 1119 times ]

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52
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