LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently Fri Oct 24, 2014 7:17 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 7 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Steering parts questions
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:43 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sun Feb 05, 2012 6:39 pm
Posts: 2
Location: Houston, TX
I've been lurking around for a while, planning what I would like to do. Reading as much as I can.

I had a 1991 Toyota Pickup (22RE) 5 speed offered to me at a price I could not pass up.

Ok, on to the questions (sorry if these have been asked before, I have tried searching, but I have not had any luck)

1. The truck does not appear to have rack and pinion steering, so I'm going to need a steering rack. What's most everyone using? I assume Miata's are common as they seem to be one of the more complete donors, but require converting from power steering. If I'm going out of my way to buy one are there any manual racks that are worth looking for?

2. Since the truck does not have rack and pinion steering is the steering column still usable?

_________________
Neil


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 11:34 pm 
Offline
We are Slotus!
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:29 am
Posts: 5171
Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Hi Neil-
Yes, the Miata rack is quite popular, and fairly easy to get. You might also look into Mustang II/Pinto racks (or clones thereof). Toyota racks from other models (Corolla?) would work as well. In other words, almost any... Depends on your budget, and the width you need to go with your front suspension.

When you say "steering column", do you mean the part inside the cab, or are you really referring to the steering shaft, which connects the wheel to the rack? The steering wheel end of the shaft should work just fine in a Locost. Without seeing the other end, it's hard to say if it can adapt to the rack. However, when ya gets down to it, the shaft is really just small diameter tubing with u-joints as needed. I used 3/4 X .120 wall DOM tube for mine, with u-joints from Speedway. So, hang onto the column for possible use inside your car and the shaft as well. They might work for you, but if they don't it's not a deal-breaker.

And, Welcome to the Forum!
:cheers:
JDK

_________________
JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


Last edited by GonzoRacer on Tue Feb 14, 2012 6:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 4:59 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2006 1:06 pm
Posts: 741
Location: Vista (north of San Diego CA)
As I recall, Speedway sells Pinto/Mustang racks new for about $130. That's pretty hard to beat.

John


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 5:56 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2010 10:37 am
Posts: 690
Location: Tennessee
If you use a MIata rack, why not use a Miata column as well? If you use a MIata column, you will probably have to extend the length. Just cut the shaft between the two u-joints and insert a tube over the two ends and weld it.If the original column used a recirculating ball or similar steering gear, it will be more work to adapt.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 7:32 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:36 pm
Posts: 1591
Location: meadview arizona
pacific customs sand rail rack,the large one, then assorted adaptors from midwest controls to extend or bias the pinion to one side or another, add heim joints (chrome moly) for the ends also from mid west.

the column can be modified, look again at pacific customs or speedway,they have plain, splined and double "d" chrome moly shafts.

they also do support bearings and universal joints also steel or aluminum swedged shafts for the track rods.

note; make sure that the column will fold up at various points (universal joints) to avoid spearing yourself if you have a front ender.

_________________
drag racers lament

oh to go down to the strip again where the blacktop meets the sky
all i ask is a small block and some fuel to make her fly
with slicks a smokin pushrods pokin next round i'll get a bye

she's up on song the shift was strong in the finals to boot
it's back to the pits and take it to bits and don't forget the shute
the final round was good and sound so come on give me the loot


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 1:52 pm 
Offline

Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:17 pm
Posts: 8
Which rack are you taling about http://www.pacificcustoms.com/AC425152.html? What do you meen 'then assorted adaptors from midwest controls to extend or bias the pinion to one side or another'? What kind of adapters? I don't understand how you would move the pinion to one side or the other. Just wondering if anyone else has used one of these racks in their build. Any pro's/con's to using these? I have been looking for a rack for my build and these seem to be the easy way to go.


john hennessy wrote:
pacific customs sand rail rack,the large one, then assorted adaptors from midwest controls to extend or bias the pinion to one side or another, add heim joints (chrome moly) for the ends also from mid west.

the column can be modified, look again at pacific customs or speedway,they have plain, splined and double "d" chrome moly shafts.

they also do support bearings and universal joints also steel or aluminum swedged shafts for the track rods.

note; make sure that the column will fold up at various points (universal joints) to avoid spearing yourself if you have a front ender.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 7:13 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:36 pm
Posts: 1591
Location: meadview arizona
i used various threaded adaptors from mid west, if you only add them to one end but the rack is still in the central position the pinion will be off set as will the rack body in relation to the hiem joints on the ends.

the threaded adapters can be screwed in or out to widen or narrow the rack to suit the chassis width.

insert TSJ10-8 into end of rack where fork end is wth loctite, add a 1/2"-20 plain nut to the stud end of SD-10F-8F, screw into rack, then add a 5/8"-18 plain nut to the fork and screw that into the adapter SD-10F-8F, this will add approx minimum of 2 1/2" to each side of the rack, this can safely be adjusted to 4' per side.

if you shorten the adapter SD-10F-8F on the hexagon, the 2 1/2" can be reduced to 1 1/2".

the above can be done semetrically or on one end to produce a rack with the body and pinion off set to one side by 4"

now by placing washers at specific points you can make your own lock stops in the rack.

_________________
drag racers lament

oh to go down to the strip again where the blacktop meets the sky
all i ask is a small block and some fuel to make her fly
with slicks a smokin pushrods pokin next round i'll get a bye

she's up on song the shift was strong in the finals to boot
it's back to the pits and take it to bits and don't forget the shute
the final round was good and sound so come on give me the loot


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 7 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot], Yahoo [Bot] and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY