Part 8: Primary ControlsSteeringRack: Mustang II widened 4 inches, also uses longer tie rods than stock.
Shaft: 3/4" with splined ujoint on one end and quick disconnect adapter on the other end.
Wheel: 13" 3-bolt wheel attached to quick disconnect hub.
Support: 3/4" pillow block type bearing mounted under dash
The output on the steering rack is just slightly off center of the middle of the driver's seat, but hardly noticeable and not worth adding a second u-joint and bearing. Love the quick disconnect because it makes it easier to get in and out and the wheel can be a security device. (Careful not to leave the wheel attached as someone else could take it just as easily.)
BrakesFront Brakes: Mustang II, rotors, calipers and lines.
Rear Brakes: Stock FJR minus master cylinder
Master Cylinder: VW, has three ports plus hydraulic brake light switch
Proportioning Valve: On center tunnel behind dash for adjusting rear brake bias.
Lines: Hard lines custom made with various fittings/adapters.
Initially had a problem with the brakes as they locked up solid. Removing the internal residual pressure valve solved that problem. Got the bias adjusted to my satisfaction, and it all stops well and good now.
ClutchMaster Cylinder: Original FJR mounted at pedals with custom pushrod.
Lines: Hard line custom made with various fittings/adapters.
Still have not worked out an issue with the clutch pressure bleeding out. If I leave my foot on the clutch and in first gear, after about 30 seconds, the trike will start inching forward and then stall. I have an extra FJR master/slave and I will try swapping those out.
PedalsBought an aftermarket floor-mounted pedal set made for a buggy. It had to be modified fairly extensively for my setup, including mounts, return springs, pedal stops, bracketry and linkage.
Finally, it feels good and operates well.
AcceleratorBought an extra long throttle cable and adapted it to the throttle on the bike and to the pedal set.
ShifterBike end: Replaced the entire assembly except the splined arm and attached a bracket and a push/pull cable that enables it to shift sequentially as on the bike.
Arm: Made the shifter out of 7/8 handlebar tube with a M/C handgrip for a handle. Mounted on the center tunnel with a bracket and the other end of the push/pull cable.
I had to decide how to make it all work, and I decided to go forward for downshifts and back for upshifts, with neutral between first and second. If you're used to driving a manual, you have to learn quickly how to shift or you will be going from 2nd to 1st instead of third. That will really wake you up.
Two other modifications were made: A stop to limit travel so as not to break the cable (learned that the hard way) and return springs that will ensure a return to center after each shift so you're ready for the next gear. All that's left is a shift boot in the center to cover all the ugliness.
This portion of the build took considerable time for not much visual impact. I would have to leave it sometimes and do something else for more of a sense of accomplishment.
Next, electrical...