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Are you meaning the two tubes that are connecting the rear hoop to the front (windscreen) hoop shown in the last picture above? I'm curious how this might be less safe. Would a single tube would be better?

The double rear roll hoop and single front with supports are what the open style DP car use if I am right, I will read though the Regs and list, what I am talking about. The main idea behind the design is the driver is inside of the parallel line drawn between the two. The fron bar is a bove the height of the steering wheel so your hands stay with in the safety area.( much like is used in open wheel race cars from indy to Ford Races and other older open wheel cars. This is the same idea used for open cabin cars in the AMLS and LMS series. Big differance is they are using a carbon fiber chassis.

I will post the sections of the SCCA, NASA and FIA regs they refer to. To see if I am reading this right.

Acerguy-

I do plan o using door bars to connect the two togeather for overall strength along with forward bars on the fron hoop and rear bars on the rear hoop.

If I understand the regs right the rear has to be a two stage system IE. main hoop and second hoop incase of failure.

I misunderstood what you meant by dual hoop. I thought you meant the little individual ones you see on cars like Cobras sometimes.

I made the same mistake... Ooopsie...

The two parallel, full width hoops as drawn should be very strong, they look like NHRA Funny-car spec. Should be SCCA rule-compliant. (I think?) SCCA will require a diagonal on the "main hoop" which might get interpreted to mean both of the rears need a diagonal bar. Not sure about that. As you've suggested, look up the rules and build to suit them. It wouldn't hurt to have a chat or email conversation (with pictures) with the sanctioning body (or bodies) you plan to race with.


JDK

Ok, I have been pulled away from using my 2JZ and toyota transmission set up. To am more normal or tried and proven set up of a LSX motor and T-56 aftermarket transmission. We decided to go this route for ease and part availability. This way for the most part we can get majority of the need drivetrain, electronic and other stuff faster and at more locations if repair is need and that is very common with racing.


So As Of right now, what we are looking at is using a RHS race block and PRC LS7 heads. I will go into the parts and plan for the engine once we have everything tied down and ready to go. We are trying to decided if we should go with a crate or custom built engine from a well know or to build the motor ourselves.


SO we are on to RLH 1.1 build stage now.

I am getting ready to take a few classes offered my both Autodesk for AutoCADD13 and invertor programs and also one with IronCAD so I am able to work with the programs easier.

Ok I am finally starting with some basic drawings.


With the drawing here are some specs

102.75" wheel base

151.60" overall length

7.45" front overhang

13.9" rear overhang
69" front track, hub to hub, with 3" offset wheels
65" rear track, hub to hub with 5" offset wheels

I have Hoosier R6 tires listed, but have found both Michelin Pilot and 2 other brands for street use with same basic dimensions.


This is just the flat floor layout and the start to where to build the chassis from.

I can adjust the car for front body work, If I can not run open front wheels, this would give the car more of a DP styling May just built it this way to start with, to ensue the car being able to be raced and driven.

Just found that my IMAC has bootcamp already installed. So I can install Window7 and can start using Windows based programs once i install widows 7

I just realized that your drawing lists a steering wheel on both sides of the car. .. Must be a trainer.

That's his and hers wheels. Saves on the backseat driving.

LOL, copy pasted from oneside to the other. I did miss that. I was making notes and reasons for things.

I have been messing around with several different programs and been working on a more traditional design and a modified version with side pods both using the same base chassis to start with.

Also got word that our other project we and going to be working on has just came out of the molds and the chassis is about read to go. So it should be read to leave the factory in a few weeks, we are a few back on the waiting list so it may take a few for them to have it ready to be delivered as the company is also working on moving in to a new shop at the same time.

My husband has been busy building two new build tables in our shop, one is steel and the second one is made from aluminum. Both are built low to the ground and will be able to have ramps attached to roll a completed rolling chassis free.

We have ordered 2 complete sets all new sets of C6 suspension sets of uprights and control arms with hubs for the front and rear of the chassis. Needed the stock control arms help with mock up of new arms we are planning on building as there has been some issues with stock control arms breaking during competion use.

Also ordered 2 A-Pyler mock-up LS blocks and heads, husband is going to pick up a t-56 from the local junkyard to gut out.

So we can start on mocking things up soon. Which will help with the design work.

So the company is moving to a new shop eh? Sounds like someone may be getting a SLC...............maybe?

Yes on a SLC. This is something we have been looking forward to for a while now.

The business is something we are looking into seriously, but we plan on keeping small and personal. The shop would have to stay with idea behind us building cars for the fun and enjoyment of building them. We are not looking at starting a business for making money, but it has to be able to support itself in the short term.

My husband and I both are semi-retired Veterans and do not need the income of the shop to support us, but feel it is a business that we can enjoy and will be there to help others that enjoy working with and building cars. Not sure how it will work out or if it will work out. If not then we will still have the shop space for our own projects and our own enjoyment.

As we have been settling on engine choices for our other project car, as it is getting closer to time to prepare for that build on top of working on this build project.

We decieded to go with a slightly de-turned version of the same motor we are placed on order with Katech Performance.


TRACK ATTACK 500
Bore: 4.165”
Stroke: 4.600”
Displacement: 502ci/8.2L
Horsepower: 812
Torque: 775
Redline: 6200RPM
CR: 14.0:1
Block: RHS aluminum, billet main caps, ARP studs, piston squirters
Crankshaft: 4340 forged steel with ATI damper
Connecting rods: Forged H-beam steel
Pistons: 2618 forged aluminum, hardcoat anodizing, skirt coating, gas porting, and DLC-coated pins
Camshaft: Desert Attack 500-spec solid roller, Jesel lifters and rockers
Cylinder heads: CNC-ported All-Pro with bronze valve guides, ARP studs
Valves: Katech titanium/molybdenum intake, hollow sodium-filled exhaust
Induction: Kinsler vertical with 8 individual throttle bodies
Oiling system: Dailey 5 stage


For this build we are looking to go a little milder and come in around 500hp area. Also with the T-56 magnum transmission we are planning on using has a 700tq rateing, but we are hoping with the lighter weight of this build it will not be an issue.We have not placed an order for either for this project yet, but this is our plans as we are settling in on the chassis design and planning out the build.

We are looking at using a electric power assist system in both builds but two different models by DC Electronics, offered by Flaming River. To go with this we are planning on using a manual rack and pinion from Woodward along with one of there safety column from them.

At this point we are working on the design still, as we slowly start imputing the parts we plan on using to ensure our design will work.