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PostPosted: September 16, 2012, 7:52 pm 
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Confession time. We decided to install a new decorative glass unit into the front door of our house. I had the new glass unit leaning against the garage wall when I was enlarging the opening in the steel door a couple of feet away. I was using a cut-off wheel in my angle grinder and didn't notice that during one particular cut the sparks were hitting the glass of the new unit. After installation, when my wife was cleaning the new unit, she discovered little bits of metal/abrasive stuck, or melted, into the surface of the glass. Well, that caused a raised eyebrow and a few pointed questions about my ability to think through a project, and I don't blame her. Dumb. Dumb. Dumb. So, anyone got any ideas how to clean up the surface of the glass and remove the black debris that's stuck there?

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PostPosted: September 16, 2012, 9:50 pm 
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razor blade

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PostPosted: September 16, 2012, 11:07 pm 
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I don't think you can fix it. The glass is pitted, even if you get the meteorites out. I too learned that the expensive way on a 500 dollar windshield.

Tom

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PostPosted: September 17, 2012, 12:44 am 
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I'm amazed that it would melt into the glass. Are you sure it was real glass?

Ditto the razor blade to get it as clean as it will get.

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PostPosted: September 17, 2012, 6:54 am 
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Stickers, posters, curtains .....


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PostPosted: September 17, 2012, 8:15 am 
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Tell everyone that it came from a penske fab shop. That way you can explain away your "mistake" as a racing purchase with heritage. Whether it came from the nascar or indy side is entirely up to you.
By the way you are stuck with the pits. This is why we switched from the glass to plastic lenses in our welding helmets years ago. YES we used glass outer lenses at one time.
Pssst.........canadians are supposed to notice these things. :BH:

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PostPosted: September 17, 2012, 9:40 am 
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If it was one or two pits that absolutely had to be removed or the alternative is to replace the windshield?, I'd try to grind out very carefully with carbide tip in a dremel and a lot of coolant. Then use some of that crack repair stuff folowed with some careful 90 degree scrapping with a razor blade.

A lot of weld pits..... you don't even stand a chance.


I've never done that so consider this idea as a WAG.

P.S. I know this is after the fact but, I have recently purchased a welding blanket to protect things when I have to weld on the car.

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PostPosted: September 17, 2012, 10:20 am 
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Been there, done that....to the rear window of my car. I think the metal burned into the laminate. Anyway, expect the black bits to turn rusty orange! I scraped the best I could with a razor.


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PostPosted: September 17, 2012, 11:31 am 
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Assuming that it wasn't crazy-expensive, consider getting a new piece of glass to keep the family peace.

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PostPosted: September 17, 2012, 12:19 pm 
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egoman wrote:
Tell everyone that it came from a penske fab shop. That way you can explain away your "mistake" as a racing purchase with heritage. Whether it came from the nascar or indy side is entirely up to you.


That's funny! :lol:

egoman wrote:
This is why we switched from the glass to plastic lenses in our welding helmets years ago. YES we used glass outer lenses at one time.


Eh? I have never not used glass to this day and I have never been to a welder supplies that didn't sell just glass, you're certainly correct about the pitting though.


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PostPosted: September 17, 2012, 2:27 pm 
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Eh? I have never not used glass to this day and I have never been to a welder supplies that didn't sell just glass, you're certainly correct about the pitting though.

The outer protective lens not the dark lense. The reason you use the plastic is to prevent pitting of the dark lense.A layer of lexan properly placed would also prevent damage to stored windows.................or you would think????

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PostPosted: September 17, 2012, 9:41 pm 
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hpbugeye and others - the razor blade took about 50% of them away. The balance are in there pretty firmly. They were chipping the blade.

carguy123 - yup, real glass. The damaged pane is 1/4" plate glass (according to the advertising)

cheapracer - stickers and curtains won't fly. I suggested frosting it (under the theory that if you've wrecked part of it at least make the rest match) but that idea didn't work either.

egoman - Yup, Canucks should be smart enough to avoid this but obviously not me. I actually saw the sparks hitting the glass and said to myself "It's glass, that won't hurt it"...wrong. And, I could have shifted my body over a foot and the welders apron would have shielded the glass.

rx7locost - I'm not sure that I've got the, ummm, fortitude to suggest that I try grinding it back to clear. That sounds too risky.

hasselweed - the meteorites are going to turn bright orange? Oh, that's great news!

KB58 - too expensive. This is a 22' by 66" triple pane sealed unit door insert with stained glass inside.

What about using a torch on the meteorites and heating them up some then trying to scrape them off? Does anyone see any pitfalls in trying that on a couple of them? Could it make it worse? I think empty pit marks in the glass would look better than the meteorites.

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PostPosted: September 17, 2012, 9:58 pm 
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Melting temp of glass is usually lower than steel. Don't do it. That's how the dust got embedded in the first place.

The metal dust looks worse after it rusts. My one garage window has about 8000 rusty specks in it. It's near a vise where I cut & grind. Even my garage TV has damage over 5 ft away from any grinding.

Maybe clear coating will help.


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PostPosted: September 17, 2012, 10:04 pm 
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I work with this stuff every day, building refrigerated displays for grocery stores, you may be able to get some of the pitting and crud off, but you're hosed, bro. I have attempted with glass polishing tools and professional equipment to clean up damaged glass, but the best I ever got was to smooth the pits out somewhat, , it didn't get the imbedded slag out.
get accurate measurements and go to your local glass distributor, NOT home depot of the local hardware.. and they can make you a new one, but most of those guys are not cheap. or you could ignore it.
good luck.


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PostPosted: September 17, 2012, 10:19 pm 
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Ok, I HAVE done this successfully:
I took an insulated glass window that had the outer layer shattered, the owner didn't have money to replace it.. I cut the rubber seal holding the broken glass in place, took out all the shattered bits and cleaned up the aluminum extrusion that was holding the whole thing apart, cut a new piece of glass the correct size, Regular DS glass, if I recall, I belted the edges for strength, used a belt sander with a 220 belt. Cleaned everything spotless, then used butyl rubber caulk as a seal (that's what they assemble these things with)and set the new layer of glass in place.Once I was happy with it, I assembled the frame around the glass and re-installed the window. The only difference between my repair and the factory window was that I had no nitrogen to purge the thing. I bet Argon from the welder would work just fine.
It has been over 20 years and last time I was by there it was still fine shape.
A piece of DS glass 22x66 shouldn't be more than about 60$, a couple years ago i bought a piece cut 72x24 and paid about 49$ at the local glass supplier, they even edged it for me.

you can do this, all you have to do is decide if you want to do this.
TimW


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