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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: May 6, 2014, 4:21 pm 
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JPS Europa wrote:
Lawn art or dream machine?
As long as its not Trailer Art.

BTW, great looking body 8)

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PostPosted: May 6, 2014, 5:23 pm 
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seattletom wrote:

BTW, great looking body 8)



Why thank you, but let's not derail this thread with a lot of off topic talk about me. :oops:

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PostPosted: May 6, 2014, 5:28 pm 
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It looks beautiful. You are going to have one heck of a machine on your hands!


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PostPosted: May 7, 2014, 8:00 am 
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I'm digging where this project is heading.

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PostPosted: May 11, 2014, 7:26 am 
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We are Slotus!
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carguy123 wrote:
It works as either lawn art or dream machine for me. Who says it can't be both?

Yep, true dat...

But, no "Test Drive" picture? (With or without purple flower pot?)
Attachment:
6 14 11 Test Drive2.jpg


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PostPosted: May 28, 2014, 4:26 pm 
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OK...many feet of tubing ordered. I was surprised at the cost. It would appear that the cost of steel has gone up significantly since I built my Seven...especially the DOM round tubing. Ah well, still cheaper than bad habits and I knew going in that this thing would not be all that Locost. I should probably get a job though...

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PostPosted: July 29, 2014, 5:20 pm 
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I think I am done fooling around with the main chassis design. It barely fits in the body and just the tubing shown in the pictures weighs 127 pounds. It will have a rigid floor so thats why no triangulation braces there. I have bent up the main hoop already and with my wife measuring me, I have plenty of room to pass the broomstick test. Getting the cockpit opening to pass the GCR spec forced me to push the top tube down and away from the centerline of the car. This was mostly caused by using commercially available bodywork that was made to fit a mid 09's Crossle. Fuel cells will be mounted outboard and I still need to work out the engine and rear diff subframe, but lots of room for that. I am still targeting 800-pounds for the whole deal.


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PostPosted: July 29, 2014, 6:08 pm 
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more measuring, this time on the nose...lower and shorten the chassis front some more. Sheesh.
One advantage is that I can run the shocks over the chassis now. The disadvantage is that there wont be anyone over 6'1" driving this thing comfortably.


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PostPosted: July 29, 2014, 8:26 pm 
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Looking good.

I would either add some triangulation to the chassis structure that the forward hoop supports attach to (create a node instead of ending them in the middle of the tube) or extend them all of the way to the forward hoop. If you move the tube so it meets at the same node as the forward hoop and upper side impact tube it will also provide additional protection for your upper body - this picture is largely what inspired me to do mine on the Sprite this way.


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PostPosted: July 30, 2014, 10:58 am 
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Good thought! I cant go further forward with the forward hoop support tubes as they would require too much cutting into the bodywork. They would also give me problems with the SCCA cockpit dimension spec. There has to be roughly 11.811 inches of 17.717 inches wide measured from anywhere forward of the bracing. I do think you are right though that some additional support is needed, so here they are...minimal gain in weight for big gain in safety. Ignore the crazy fishmouths...that is just me being lazy with the "Trim/Extend" command.
Compared to the Seven, I feel like I am designing a tank.


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PostPosted: March 1, 2015, 5:45 pm 
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Spent a bit of time bending, cutting and tacking in place. Took pix to show where my feet will end up and to show myself that I will pass the "broomstick test" on the roll hoops. Still moving tubes around in the design a bit as it comes together. So many more tubes to do!


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PostPosted: March 1, 2015, 5:54 pm 
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I believe the current GCR requires 2" of vertical distance between the top of the hoop and the top of your helmet and the broomstick test has to be with a helmet on. If you care about this you'll need to raise the top of the hoop or lower yourself (FWIW you look to be sitting pretty upright for how you're normally seated in a sports racer).

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PostPosted: March 1, 2015, 6:09 pm 
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Yes, I will be more horizontal. I need to cut and refiberglass the seat to get the position I plan to truly end up with. I will end up sliding down about 3 more inches which should do it. My head should end up about where the top of the seat is now. I wont be doing any fiberglass work before the snow melts. At this point this should be around July. ....and yes, its snowing again.

Thanks for your comments,
Paul

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PostPosted: March 1, 2015, 8:32 pm 
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Quote:
There has to be roughly 11.811 inches of 17.717 inches wide measured from anywhere forward of the bracing.


That's odd, the braces on my Formula ford go to almost to the front hoop. They are there to prevent things coming over the front of the car, not so much for bracing. Think of the scene in "Rush" where the driver or almost all the driver went under the steel barriers at Watkins Glen. When I started it was also told to me that happened at Lime Rock too. Trackes are a lot safer now, but there are always other cars out there.

On one of my cars those braces were hinged at the hoop on a bolt and a pin was used to locate them to the lower frame so that the body was removable. We took the pins out though and put bolts in.

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PostPosted: March 2, 2015, 9:33 am 
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Am I reading it incorrectly?

Open-cockpit cars – The driver’s seat shall be capable of
being entered without the removal or manipulation of any
part or panel (except for a removable steering wheel and
removable cockpit padding).
The cockpit opening of metallic chassis shall have the
following minimal dimensions:
Length: 60cm (23.622 inches)
Width: 45cm (17.717 inches)
This width extends over a length of 30cm (11.811 inches)
minimum. This minimal rectangular opening may exist
anywhere forward of the bracing, and required padding.

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