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PostPosted: December 4, 2012, 4:09 am 
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Location: meadview arizona
Steve,
i see you have some cranfield uprights, do you have the uprated spindles and alloy hubs as i need some dimensions?

Fred,
i see you have drawings of the cranfield uprights, even better, do you have, or know where i can get some drawings of the hubs and spindles?

anyone who could give me any info/dimensions on spitfire hubs and/or uprights, i would appreciate it, thanks.

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PostPosted: December 4, 2012, 1:04 pm 
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Joined: April 16, 2010, 12:19 pm
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Location: Meridian, Idaho
john hennessy wrote:
Steve,
i see you have some cranfield uprights, do you have the uprated spindles and alloy hubs as i need some dimensions?

John,

Unfortunately, I don't have the uprated stub shafts or alloy hubs. I pulled these pictures off of the Internet of the kit that Canley Classics sells.

Attachment:
catkit_hubs.jpg

Attachment:
catkit_bearings.jpg

Attachment:
catkit_hubs_assembled.jpg

Attachment:
catkit_hubs_fitted.jpg


The stub shaft is a straight 1" (25.4mm) diameter shaft. The bearings are NTN single row tapered roller bearings. The cone is part nunber 4T-L44643. The cup is part number 4T-L44610. They are typically used for boat trailers.

Attachment:
NTN 4T-L44643_4T-L44610.jpg


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PostPosted: December 4, 2012, 7:49 pm 
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Steve,
if you have the standard parts, and i asume they are dimentionally similar, could you measure them.

what i need to know is, when assembled, the distance from the hub face to the suspension side of the caliper mounting boses, i understand that this dimnsion my vary somewhat due to bearing wear but not that much.

i am trying to design a front suspension system that is very light to operate, requiring a small scrub radius and will fit inside a 13" wheel, this is for autocross so feed back is not really a factor, what is important is being able to go from lock to lock as quickly as possible with a lot of camber inducing caster so the front wheels behave more like a motorcycle in the turns.

any assistance is very welcome at this point and very much appreciated.
regards John

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PostPosted: December 4, 2012, 10:50 pm 
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Location: Vancouver, BC
John,
I've got a CAD drawing somewhere of both the Herald type and Caterham/Canley Classic uprights. I'll see if i can dig them up when i'm in the office tomorrow. They should help in the dimension department for you.

Rod


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PostPosted: December 5, 2012, 12:53 am 
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Location: Meridian, Idaho
john hennessy wrote:
Steve,
if you have the standard parts, and i asume they are dimentionally similar, could you measure them.

Sorry, I don't have standard hubs...just standard Spitfire vertical links and stub axles in addition to the upgraded Canley/Caterham style vertical links.

john hennessy wrote:
what i need to know is, when assembled, the distance from the hub face to the suspension side of the caliper mounting boses, i understand that this dimnsion my vary somewhat due to bearing wear but not that much.

Maybe these dimensions combined with the Spitfire service manual dimensions will get you what you need?

http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13722

cs3tcr wrote:
John,
I've got a CAD drawing somewhere of both the Herald type and Caterham/Canley Classic uprights. I'll see if i can dig them up when i'm in the office tomorrow. They should help in the dimension department for you.

Rod

Rod,

I would be interested in getting a copy as well if possible. Thanks!

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PostPosted: December 5, 2012, 1:16 am 
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Location: Meridian, Idaho
Here is the taper on the Spitfire stub axle in case anyone needs it.


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PostPosted: December 5, 2012, 11:22 am 
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Location: meadview arizona
thank guys,

so 2.65" is the magic number,

i will probably have to fabricate the upright due to the different type of ball joints i will be using, so now i can establish the kingpin centerline to hub flange dimension which is all i need to work out the scrub radius/wheel offset.

the trailer bearing thing and 1" spindle, what about using a trailer hub and spindle, most 4 stud trailer hubs are 100mm pcd which is the same as most 4 stud japanese wheels, just wonder what the quality is in the hubs and the flange is usually a bit closer to the upright so it might be tight to get the disc in there, we shall see.

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PostPosted: December 5, 2012, 9:23 pm 
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Location: Meridian, Idaho
john hennessy wrote:
the trailer bearing thing and 1" spindle, what about using a trailer hub and spindle, most 4 stud trailer hubs are 100mm pcd which is the same as most 4 stud japanese wheels, just wonder what the quality is in the hubs and the flange is usually a bit closer to the upright so it might be tight to get the disc in there, we shall see.
When I looked into using trailer hubs, it seem all of the 4-stud hubs sold in the USA are 4 x 4" not 4 x 100mm. Also, the wheel flanges are centered on the hub, resulting in a long, unattractive "snout" poking through the wheel.

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PostPosted: December 5, 2012, 9:24 pm 
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Location: Meridian, Idaho
john hennessy wrote:
the trailer bearing thing and 1" spindle, what about using a trailer hub and spindle, most 4 stud trailer hubs are 100mm pcd which is the same as most 4 stud japanese wheels, just wonder what the quality is in the hubs and the flange is usually a bit closer to the upright so it might be tight to get the disc in there, we shall see.
When I looked into using trailer hubs, it seemed all of the 4-stud hubs sold in the USA are 4 x 4" not 4 x 100mm. Also, the wheel flanges are centered on the hub, resulting in a long, unattractive "snout" poking through the wheel.

EDIT: Sorry for the double post. Darn Windows Phone device from AT&T!

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PostPosted: August 21, 2013, 2:12 pm 
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Joined: January 26, 2012, 10:55 am
Posts: 60
Location: Guadalajara, Mexico
Hello all,

This is my first contribution to the forum, sadly I don't think it will be useful for you guys in USA, but, maybe it will work for someone where 80's Nissan Vanettes were sold.

As I just said, this comes from an 80s Nissan Vanette C120, it weights 3kg aprox and bolt pattern is 4x114.3

Image

Bolt pattern is the same as Datsuns, so, in my case I'm planning to get a rusted out Datsun (plenty of them in Mexico) for my build, specifically an 80s Datsun Sakura (S110 200SX), which comes with a 1800 J18 engine and 5 speed gearbox.

I'm still kind of confused about ball joints, and frankly, what kind of scares me about all the build process is the A arms design and build, but we'll see how it goes when the time of it comes.

Hope to start a build log soon!!


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Build log ---> http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15410


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PostPosted: January 10, 2015, 3:54 pm 
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Joined: January 31, 2008, 5:34 pm
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Location: SW Wes Consin
I am interested in the spitfire conversion away from trunnions and am having trouble visualizing it. Could someone draw me a picture or steer me to one?


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PostPosted: January 10, 2015, 7:59 pm 
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Location: meadview arizona
look in the post from graham early about spitfire hubs/uprights, it shows a method of doing the modification.

i have also done a similar mod but retainging the original dimension of the trunion but i still had to machine some adaptor bushings to mount a 1" uniball on the trunion shaft and thread the bottom grease hole to install a stud that held everything on the shaft and held it all in place with a nyloc nut.

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PostPosted: January 19, 2015, 8:06 pm 
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Location: SW Wes Consin
I have looked at the Moog site but what I really need is ball joint dimensions. Does anybody know where I might find them short of buying parts and measuring :?


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PostPosted: January 20, 2015, 11:28 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
Search Federal-Mogul techline
I've got 12 pages of rod end dimensions, with taper, length, threads, etc. all correlated by part number.
Dave W


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PostPosted: January 21, 2015, 4:52 pm 
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Location: SW Wes Consin
DaveW
I assume you called their help line or emailed a request. It the info didn't seem to be posted on line in any way but by aftermarket application. I emailed a request, no response so far. Could you post a copy? I'm sure others might find it useful although 12 pages might be a lot.
Thx
Tim


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