Lonnie-S wrote:
airframefixer wrote:
. . . Solid rivets were used as mush as possible, however for blind applications I use Cherry MS and Max types.
When you do solid rivets, how do you back them up? Do you have someone helping and holding the buck (I think that's what it's called) while you rivet?
You obviously know quite a bit about riveting. Any suggestions about where to seek out a good used gun for blind rivets of the Cherry type or similar?
Thanks,
Thanks, I worked in aircraft structural repair prior to my current career. . The back side of the rivet is "bucked" with a steel bar called a bucking bar. The rivet gun (think small jack hammer) sends impacts through the rivet and the bucking bar bounces of the back side of the rivet and thus compressing it. It swells in the hole and then forms a "shop head" on the back side clamping the two sheets together. If you have easy access to both sides, one person can easily install solid rivets. Two people are required when lets say riveting a repair doubler on a fuselage, one guy inside with the bar and the other outside with the gun. You can learn to work together without talking and know when to rivet more or less. Only really one way to learn it.
Otherwise, the other way to install them is with a squeezer, I posted some pics a while back of my squeezers Ive had. I only kept the small A squeeze and a manual C-squeeze. The limitation with these is the depth and the shape of the Jaw. The smaller the Jaws the bigger you can squeeze.
As for blind pullers, any inexpensive pneumatic riveter will install cherry MS and Max rivets. They worked fine and every shop I worked in had a cheap one in the crib. Once you get into the GBP, Huck, Cherry, Allfast tools, the versatility (and the price) goes way up!! the benefit is that the purpose built tools have the correct stroke and force to set rivets in all head styles, grips and materials. The ones for commercial rivets Pop, Marson, Avdel are designed for a wider grip range and less pulling force and do not have nearly the available pulling heads for restricted installations.
Personally, I would not pursue this type of tooling, its $$$ and if you buy used, you may need to rebuild it. The o rings are urethane and hard to find, hard parts, (pistons and shift valves) are in the hundreds and Jaws and saddles tend to be expensive too.. Never mind you may need to fabricate some special tools for dis-assembly. I rebuilt 4 G784's and had a set of custom wrenches made to expose the shift valve/piston that was $200 just for the wrenches. I rebuilt these tools previously for aerospace contractors after my stint in structures work. If you do end up sourcing an aerospace tool, just remember the grooved jaws in the pulling heads will not grip a smooth stem "pop" rivet. you'll need a special head for standard pop rivets. I paid 285.00 USD for mine, just the pulling head. I only have these tools because I used them to earn an income, they're are definitely not necessary for locost building.
Anyways if you serious about aerospace tooling send me a PM and ill steer you in the right direction and let you know whats compatible.
Andrew