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 Post subject: Re: A locost EFI
PostPosted: September 22, 2015, 2:44 pm 
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Actually now is a good time as I have a 2 week wait to get into the lab with my drug detection project...I now know so much more about induction heating than I ever wanted to know.
Send the files to my gmail account.

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 Post subject: Re: A locost EFI
PostPosted: September 22, 2015, 3:43 pm 
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JPS Europa wrote:
Send the files to my gmail account.

https://github.com/ or http://sourceforge.net/ would be even better!

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 Post subject: Re: A locost EFI
PostPosted: September 27, 2015, 10:57 am 
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Rusefi I am still debating this and don't know what to do yet. I registered on your site, I need to go make a post there now...


Here's an early look at the driver board. It has taken a couple of tries but here we have 8 channels of coil drivers, 2 chips to drive the coil drivers and injectors and another chip with 16 floating MOSFETs controlled by SPI.

The coil drivers are IRGS14C40L at the moment. There are many newer devices but this one seems to be specified for a large coil. Maybe all the modern coils are smaller these days. I'll need to double check the inductance of likely coils.

I took some guesses for dwell time and assuming 4 mS dwell and %50 duty cycle, each channel should be good for around 15,000 RPM. One of my first users is working with a motorcycle engine in a sports racer and he needs around 14,000 RPM so this is realistic.

My engine will be an eight and 7500 should be basically enough. Maybe I should make this board be 4 channel with wasted spark for 8 cylinder engines and devote the extra space to some more medium current drivers for H-bridge etc.

Anyway here's the pic with the layout still in progress. The SPI is mostly done and that's my big concern. It's harder than I expected but should be doable.I just have to grovel some more.


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 Post subject: Re: A locost EFI
PostPosted: September 27, 2015, 11:23 am 
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What is for debate and what are your concurns about GH and SF?

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 Post subject: Re: A locost EFI
PostPosted: September 27, 2015, 9:30 pm 
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What is for debate and what are your concurns about GH and SF?


Hi Andrey, I've worked with open source software for a long time and am comfortable with it. Right now I don't see any problem with contributing my code under the GNU or other license.

I am less sure about the schematics and especially the board layout. I don't think there are any strong protections from copyright etc. A drawing is different than something that is written like code. If you copyright a drawing, it can be changed a bit and it is no longer the same. If something is writing, you can change fonts or spacing etc., but it is still the same text.

The manufacturer of the chip I use has a general reference board and even a reference ECU that are available. I also don't think there is much of anything special about my schematic, you would recognize everything on it. The board has taken me a great deal of effort to layout and I'm not sure I want to see it being sold by other folks. On the other hand maybe that would work fine. So that's my pondering...

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 Post subject: Re: A locost EFI
PostPosted: September 30, 2015, 2:56 pm 
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I need a little input on idle air controls. How many people expect that they would need this on their engine? Can team Slotus let me know how many pins are on their Idle Air Control connector or wether Ford 302 uses a stepper motor or solenoid?

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 Post subject: Re: A locost EFI
PostPosted: September 30, 2015, 3:12 pm 
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GM typically uses a stepper. Ford generally uses a PWM-fed solenoid.

I'm not fond of the solenoid arrangement. The stepper moves, then stops. The solenoid requires current all the time to maintain position.

I guess from the ECM end, whatever is easiest to handle.


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 Post subject: Re: A locost EFI
PostPosted: September 30, 2015, 3:36 pm 
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mazda miata, dodge neon, honda accord - solenoids
dodge ram - stepper

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 Post subject: Re: A locost EFI
PostPosted: September 30, 2015, 9:57 pm 
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I need a little input on idle air controls. How many people expect that they would need this on their engine?
I am running the RX-7 BAC (a.k.a. IAC) valve with the megasquirt. If you want to increase idle for warm-up or run a constant idle speed for varying electrical loads (headlights, brake-lights, fan etc. ) you would want this option. I think most MS users who run on the road, use either the PWM or stepper mode.
It also opens the throttle a bit for starting purposes. It is not necessary to manually depress the throttle for starting or hold it open a bit while warming up. A very valuable option IMO.

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 Post subject: Re: A locost EFI
PostPosted: September 30, 2015, 10:33 pm 
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Hi
As a megasquirt guy, I have taken the easy way,, use any solenoid vacuum valve with a 1/4 opening,,(fuel tank vent valve) simple to program open below a certain water temp. If the cold idle speed I too fast just restrict the hose to you liking,, can also adjust the cold spark timing.


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 Post subject: Re: A locost EFI
PostPosted: September 30, 2015, 11:38 pm 
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Both Ford and Bosch have 2 wire PWM IAC valves.

The Bosch has hose fittings, the Ford you need to make a block with hose fittings.

I have also seen a block with hose fittings made for the 4 wire stepper style IAC
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/custom-idle-air-control-body-for-use-with-jeep-40l-iac-valve-p-69.html

MS does PWM Idle by installing a mod to the FIdle output circuit
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirt-pwm-iac-valve-control-tip120-39modkit39-p-134.html

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 Post subject: Re: A locost EFI
PostPosted: October 1, 2015, 12:59 am 
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Hyundai Beta engines: push-pull PWM valve with hose barbs
90's to 2000's Mitsubishi I4/V6: stepper in throttlebody

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 Post subject: Re: A locost EFI
PostPosted: October 1, 2015, 8:57 am 
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horizenjob wrote:
Can team Slotus let me know how many pins are on their Idle Air Control connector or whether Ford 302 uses a stepper motor or solenoid?
Our tame Ford Mechanic, James Earl, says that "very old" 302s had stepper motors, but most of them used a solenoid. Mine, a 92 vintage, has a solenoid. Earl also says the IAC is a two-pin connector.
Edit:
Attachment:
IAC and 2-Wire.jpg
Added a picture, because seeing is believing. Around here, sometimes smelling is believing, but let's not get into that right now. Note the two-wire connector.

:cheers:
Bubba


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 Post subject: Re: A locost EFI
PostPosted: October 1, 2015, 2:42 pm 
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Thanks JD. I had an '86 fox body so that explains my confusion about the stepper motor...

Impressively detailed painting job there, but I think the TPS needs paint too! It appears to be despondent and trying to escape.

From what I have heard here it seems reasonable to provide support for solenoid Idle Air Control and skip the stepper motor ones for my prototypes. Cars with carbs seem to do fine without them so they are probably not all that useful for a track car especially. I think on my car I'll go with a brass needle valve on the dash, that's something not everyone has.. :rofl: Kind of steam punk.

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 Post subject: Re: A locost EFI
PostPosted: October 8, 2015, 3:35 pm 
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Quote:
Hi
As a megasquirt guy, I have taken the easy way,, use any solenoid vacuum valve with a 1/4 opening,,


Hi Rad, that's a good idea too. Wanna check out the new road course in Palmer next year?

It looks like the only case that might be hard for me is a V8 with individual coils and a stepper motor idle air control. We can put that off for future features. If anyone knows how much current these solenoid idle air thingies draw, please chime in. The unit I had seems to be AWOL at the moment.

The last couple of days I have been trying to tie up some loose ends, sort of literally. I had a big handful of unused pins on the CPU which have been ignored. That is something you should not do if the pins are inputs, so I was planning to turn them off or set them to be outputs in the code while it was booting. I'm having some second thoughts on this so now I am routing them out to resister packs which tie the signals to ground.

There is an advantage to doing this because it means you can get to these signals and modify the board to use them for other things. That's a help when you are getting started on a project and it turns out you forgot something and need to be able to get to it. It's taking me most of 2 days just to take take care of the first half of these though. An amazing amount of time coaxing various copper traces and other little bits a fraction of a milimeter at a time to make space for these other new little friends on the board.

Still hoping to get theses board designs sent to the PCB fabricator next week sometime. Anyone have any opinions on wether I should have just left those pins floating and set them to outputs during the boot. I think I had some fear that there might have been problems caused by that that might interfere with booting especially over the CAN bus. So trying to reduce risks, I guess.

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