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PostPosted: September 16, 2015, 6:19 pm 
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1) I did not need the later MAP sensor, but I had one that came on the new motor, it matched the plug on the harness and the S2000 one was broken.

2) This is a Miata trans, clutch shift fork and release bearing. The only S2000 part is the inlet manifold.

Graham


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PostPosted: September 17, 2015, 12:27 am 
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FastG wrote:
1) I did not need the later MAP sensor, but I had one that came on the new motor, it matched the plug on the harness and the S2000 one was broken.

2) This is a Miata trans, clutch shift fork and release bearing. The only S2000 part is the inlet manifold.

Graham


You've got to forgive me, I get befuddled easily in my old age, which started at about age 30.

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PostPosted: November 13, 2015, 2:03 am 
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Location: Wilsonville, Or
Graham,
Nice build!
I was looking at your pics, and saw the clearance problem with the TB. :idea: Have you considered rotating the TB? You will probably have to build an adapter plate, but that would not be difficult, and it may solve that clearance problem.

John


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PostPosted: May 20, 2016, 9:17 pm 
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I finally got the car to a well respected local dyno operator. He did not like my air filter setup, said the tubes were to restrictive, I will re-create the setup he used next week. Here is a link to the final dyno pull, I will post the actual dyno print when he send it to me. But the answer is 206 rwbhp, very coll for a bone stock engine.

http://s562.photobucket.com/user/fastgx ... e.mp4.html

Graham


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PostPosted: May 21, 2016, 10:29 am 
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Haven't read this thread for awhile. You've had quite the tussle with this little beastie!
Cheers on a great job and actually seeing it to the end. Perhaps you should tie that clutch fork to the back of your car with a chain and drag it around. Or smelt it or something...

Congrats! :cheers:

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PostPosted: May 22, 2016, 9:41 am 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
It sounds so much better then any K series I've heard. What did you do differently? I didn't hear any rasp at all.

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PostPosted: May 22, 2016, 1:29 pm 
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Here is the exhaust setup I am using, there are a lot more plates in the Supertrap from when this mock up picture was taken. The first thing is just a resonator, there is also a Vortex cone before the muffler.

Graham


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IMG_20160130_114633974 (1).jpg
IMG_20160130_114633974 (1).jpg [ 1.8 MiB | Viewed 2167 times ]
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PostPosted: March 13, 2019, 2:10 pm 
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Joined: December 1, 2013, 10:48 pm
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Location: Atlanta GA
Where are you located?

I have actually decided to go with the K series as well. Very much appreciate this thread. Looks like you are working out many of the issues

Out of interest- any reason you did a K24 instead of a K20 ?


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PostPosted: March 13, 2019, 2:36 pm 
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i went with the K24 because of the good deal locally, I was thinking the K24 would likely have lower mileage, plus bigger is better. The engine height is an issue I have lower ground clearance than I would like, but it's never actually been a problem. The Honda motors like low back pressure exhausts, The Supertrap sucked big time probably cost 30bhp, I have a new setup now with a much larger chambered muffler that is quite and gives great power. I am now located in the Washington DC area.

Graham


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PostPosted: March 13, 2019, 7:24 pm 
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Location: Atlanta GA
Very cool.

Looking at some pictures- could you have used the stock intake manifold and just put the filter on top of the pedal box area or on the other side of it?

Any sage advice before I call kmiata and start this? I'm thinking the getrag trans tho. Did you consider that or was it visually much wider?


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PostPosted: March 13, 2019, 8:01 pm 
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I could have used the stock inlet manifold I think the throttle would have been a lot lower and that might have caused a problem, but I sold it before i got into the project. The RBC is a great manifold for the price so it worked out OK. I still have the Honda S2000 setup I would be willing to sell. I think above the passenger footbox is the perfect place for a nice larger cold air airbox.

As for transmissions, ask yourself 'am I hard on transmissions'? If the answer is yes go for the BMW. I think a very light car also reduces the load on the trans, I do not think you can load the trans up enough with such a low weight to push along. There are a lot of Caterhams running around with T9 trans and they are not known for being strong. I think the BMW is larger, and my chassis is built around the trans, I am sure swapping to the BMW would be a huge effort. If you were going to turbo the engine then maybe I would consider it.

Dave at K-Miata is a great guy, helped me out a lot, I used to live about 15 miles from his place.

Graham


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PostPosted: March 14, 2019, 8:00 am 
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Joined: December 1, 2013, 10:48 pm
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Location: Atlanta GA
I appreciate the reply


I had the exact same thoughts about the weight and impact ironically its cheaper to go with a Bmw trans swap than a Miata given the difficulty imnhaving in finding a clutch
That said I do have a driveshaft for a Miata right now.m

David is a solid guy. Talked to him already and will be giving him some business in the future


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PostPosted: March 14, 2019, 1:19 pm 
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I think I used a Flyin Miata clutch.

Graham


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PostPosted: March 27, 2019, 4:07 pm 
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Joined: December 1, 2013, 10:48 pm
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Location: Atlanta GA
Is that chassis the standard book height?

I've been looking hard to for a k20 but David is telling me to strongly consider the k24 because they are easier to find and cheaper. I'm a bit concerned and every inch helps.

Did that oil pan get you any added clearance?


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PostPosted: March 28, 2019, 7:53 am 
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I have a standard book chassis, I also have a 1 1/4" spacer rail that runs from the nose to the scuttle, you can see it in my exhaust picture. It was added to compensate for the VVT Miata engine that was originally in the car. The VVT unit on the Miata engine sticks straight up in the air by the inlet camshaft. I used that extra space to the max, the paint has worn off from the front of the cam cover were it just rubs on the nose cone. I still have too little ground clearance for my liking, but it has never actually been a problem. So will a K24 fit in a stock book chassis without a spacer or hood scoop, probably not.

I did not compare the Canton oil pan to the stock pad. The stock pan was only used for FWD setups, the Canton and Moroso both have accommodation for RWD and much more sophisticated oil control setups.

Graham


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