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I have a newly rebuilt 2.3l Duratec in a new Birkin chassis that I am having a problem with. It is a Ranger engine (9.7:1) with Crower Stage 1 cams and a set of early 48mm Jenny ITBs. I am running a Typhoon 2 ECU acquired from Tom Carlin, the distributor. Tom sent me a reliable base map that has worked on a number of other customer cars similarly equipped.

When I start it, it runs quite rough, as if the timing were off a bit. We have eliminated the following:

- the timing is spot on, easy enough to determine on a Duratec.

- the ITB butterflies are set evenly.

- New Accel coils.

- freshly refurbished injectors from RC Engineering

- Tom checked the ECU and ECU harness on another car and it worked fine.

- I re-checked the timing for the third time, perfect.

- compression check was 173/170/180/170.

- I personally checked the ECU harness for continuity of all wires.

Tom has been nothing but patient and gracious with his time. We are really pulling our hair out at this point. Before I remove the head to check for a bent valve, is there anything else that comes to mind? I really need a Duratec guru about now.

Does it change at all as the engine warms up? Which ITBs are you running?

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-Andrew
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Are you using Speed Density or Alpha N?
Is Tom well versed in ITB tuning?

A MegaSquirt can use a blend of Speed Density and Alpha N to further assist with ITB tuning.
Not familiar with a Typhoon.... (Google doesnt know anything about it)

A canned map is just a start, You cant plug in a canned map and haul ass, the canned map just gets it running.
Do you have a wideband O2 sensor?
What kind of tuning software do you have?
Will it do logging? AutoTune?

You don't need to pull the head in search of valve sealing issues, do a leakdown test.

What motor? Oh, Duratech 2.3L
What size injectors?
What fuel pressure?
Is it smoking?
What do the plugs look like?
Does it have any vacuum at idle?

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I don't know who I am, when I am somebody else.

Did you change the cam timing?
Are the new coils a similar type to the old units?
Fuel pressure look correct?

Possible grounding issues? Make sure there is a good ground from ECU to battery and from engine to battery.

Good luck, you'll find it. It's just very frustrating.

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
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Double check the cam timing

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Check to make sure all 4 injector are squirting and the same amount.

Tom

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Sometimes, I'm as confused as a baby in a topless bar.

My short term memory is absolutely horrible and so is my short term memory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sG16m2e4O6I

in addition to what everyone else has said, check your sensor calibrations...especially throttle position sensor.

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Parts left out cost nothing and cause no problems!!

Is the gas fresh?
I've banged my head against the wall with what turned out to be old gas , and that was long before this Ethanol garbage which only makes it worse.

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Planning a Duratec powered, Miata suspended 442

When I first started my Duratec, it was running RICH. So rich, it ran very raggedly with considerable miss. The miss put fresh air into the exhaust, leading to a lean O2 reading, which put me into a downward spiral as I responded by richening the mixture. Have you tried leaning the fuel a very large amount, say twenty percent?

Bill

We haven't tried leaning it. In fact, we increased it by 10% followed by another 10%. It's definitely rich but the base map is set up for a 2.0l with 45mm ITBs. Mine is a 2.3 with 48s. That was the logical direction to try. Everything in the above comments has been done, several times. Thanks for the suggestion.

I would definitely look at your AFR to make sure you have the right amount of fuel. Do you have any way to rear the AFR from the ECU or a gauge.

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

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