LocostUSA.com

_________________
* vsusp
* 5.0 442E build

sounds like good times

_________________
* vsusp
* 5.0 442E build

Both headers are done except for flanges and oxygen sensor bungs. Also fixed the ignition timing. Bought some more tubing and sheet steel so I can finish the windshield stanchion mounts. Ordered catalytic converters and chambered mufflers

_________________
* vsusp
* 5.0 442E build

Working on windshield stanchion mounts. I'm happy with the windshield location and proportions so far. Next I'll drill the holes for the bolts that connect the stanchions to the windshield frame.

_________________
* vsusp
* 5.0 442E build

Made significant progress on the lights

_________________
* vsusp
* 5.0 442E build

Am in the process of installing a Mustang II rack (which I'll actually need to widen at the inner pivots). Problem is first that the pinion/input shaft is too long and interferes with the frame and lower radiator hose. I'm a little reluctant to cut/shorten/reweld it, but I don't see much other choice. I saw some steps for doing this on locostbuilders about how how it can be done carefully.

Looking down in front of the engine. Front of the car is to the right. If the input shaft is shortened to half of its original length, a u-joint should be enough to clear the hose and frame.



Any suggestions on if it's reasonably safe to shorten the input shaft?

_________________
* vsusp
* 5.0 442E build

Can't you just rotate the rack, lowering the end of the input shaft. IT would require u-joint(s) along the steering shaft. But that is normal.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

If rotating the rack isn't possible, and if shortening the shaft is the only remaining option, I would cut and TIG weld (don't think that I would attempt it with a MIG). I would bevel the joint, weld it and then grind it flush. Then I would slip a tube (DOM with a 0.125 wall) over the joint with some overlap and weld around the outsides, and finish off with a couple of plug welds for each of the cut pieces. I would be comfortable with that.
Hope this helps.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

There are weld-on u-joints that would eliminate the need for the sleeve. Just cut the shaft and weld on the joint. I would remove the shaft during the welding in either case.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Good point, Chuck.
However, there may be another problem, that I hadn't thought off. Many jurisdictions do not allow any welded repairs in the steering system, so my suggestion may be mute. It would need some investigating.

_________________
Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

Thanks Chuck and Martin for the suggestions. After looking at it again earlier, I think I might be able to squeeze a u-joint in without needing to cut after all. It'll be close, but this sounds preferable to having to cut and weld. I'll try to go that route first and will update

_________________
* vsusp
* 5.0 442E build

So looks like the u-joint won't fit on the steering input shaft without hitting the frame. Even If try to turn the rack so the input shaft is straight up, it won't clear the lower radiator hose.

Options

* shift the housing to the passenger side of the car slightly, leaving the rack centered. I don't like this idea
* Use another rack, something which has an input shaft that is shorter or doesn't come out at an angle. Meh
* remove and trim down input shaft, then weld on a u-joint. I like this idea the most, but I'm having trouble finding a u-joint with a 9/16" smooth end

_________________
* vsusp
* 5.0 442E build

I wish I could lay my hands on my '94 SN95 rack, which was a power steering unit. My recollection is that the input shaft on the rack was keyed (somewhat triangular) and a RAG joint was secured to it by a pinch bolt. Does your rack input shaft have a spline?

I wouldn't buy, or do, anything based on my recollection, but if my recollection was correct, maybe the input shaft of a power steering unit could be cut down and used with a SN95 Ford steering shaft, at least the last portion of it.

Here are the only relevant photos I could find of my unit. The steering shaft is still in place, so I couldn't verify my recollection about the shape of the rack input shaft.



Regards,

Lonnie

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Another possibility if you need to avoid welding it, would be to disassemble the rack, take the shaft to a machinist, and have a keyway broached in it. Not that expensive to have done. Then, find a place that sells the drive shaft kits for power takeoffs. PTO's are usually smooth shaft with a keyway, and get a u-joint kit for one with the bore you need. Admittedly a pia, but possibly an alternative.

Obviously, shorten it before you get it broached..

_________________
Dismantalus, Fabricatus, Assemblus.....
Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!

Option # 743!!!
Move the hose routing. Replace a section in the hose with steel tubing that will allow hard bends around the shaft, or a flaten area, with minimal required clearance. Add a tab on the tubing so it can be atteched to the frame or steering rack to prevent any movement. Dave W