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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: February 13, 2017, 3:44 pm 
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Joined: August 11, 2012, 10:56 pm
Posts: 187
Location: Arizona
Thanks for the suggestions. I looked into power-take-off u-joints but couldn't find any in 9/16" ID. Moving the water hose would probably work, but for simplicity I'm going have the input shaft shortened and TIG welded by the guy who's making my new driveshaft. Then, for most of the steering linkage, I'll use 3/4" DD so I can shorten shafts as needed to fit everything. I'll probably have to have a u-joint welded to the upper steering column too, since that's Scion/Toyota and 11/16" diameter.

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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: March 4, 2017, 10:42 pm 
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Joined: August 11, 2012, 10:56 pm
Posts: 187
Location: Arizona
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The exhaust is almost finished. I'm painting it with KBS XTC (Xtreme Temperature Coating).

Also, finished welding the spare tire mount. The rear fender brackets are almost mounted to the frame, and next I'll need to decide how to glue the brackets to the fenders themselves. I'm thinking of drilling holes in the brackets and using fiberglass + resin to glue them.

Soon, I'll remove the engine so I can add the fuel and brake lines and mount the steering components

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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: June 17, 2017, 11:05 pm 
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Joined: August 11, 2012, 10:56 pm
Posts: 187
Location: Arizona
Exhaust: I finished painting and mounting the exhaust. I'll watch if the rubber exhaust mounts are going to work themselves off of the frame while driving. If so, I'll modify the mounts.

Rear fenders: Finished cutting the rear fenders, except for the part that rests against the 'trunk' aluminum. I decided to attach metal strips to the fenders with fiberglass. The strips bolt to the frame
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Horn switch connection: I had removed the Scion rotary switch that sits inside the steering wheel, because I couldn't figure out how to solder to the tiny wires-in-paper. Also, I would only have the horn button on the steering wheel, so I didn't need all the connections for cruise and whatnot. I ended up using a paperclip with a copper rivet soldered to one end. The other end is attached to the steering column bracket. The rivet rests against a metal insulated disc that rotates with the steering wheel. When the horn button is pressed, the horn circuit is grounded and .. beep-beep
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Wire labeling and detaching: needed to move the fuse box
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Plate light caulking: I ended up just using regular sink caulking for the plastic lens on the license plate light. Otherwise, I know that having it mounted upside-down would allow water to get in easily.
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Moved the fuse box: I needed to relocate it so the connections for the evaporator and heater core could pass through there. I'll make some kind of black cover later.
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Brakes: I figured out the brake master cylinder sizes I would start with. 0.83" front, 0.71 rear. These are made by Howe. I also decided to use a Wilwood adjustable brake pedal, 7:1 ratio.

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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: June 17, 2017, 11:27 pm 
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Joined: August 11, 2012, 10:56 pm
Posts: 187
Location: Arizona
Clutch: I was unable to find a good way to use the Fox Mustang clutch cable. So I ended up converting to hydraulic. I stole the idea from a Cobra forum. So I'm using a 1-1/8" bore master cylinder and 7/8" bore push slave cylinder. However! Using a push slave in the conventional way won't fit aft of the clutch fork because of the limited space between the transmission and the driver footwell.

So, I came up with a bracket that would allow the slave cyl to be mounted forward of the clutch fork. I'll take a picture with it mounted. The right side of the bracket mounts behind clutch fork, and the yellow push rod pushes on the bellhousing. So, the bracket and slave cylinder move forward, pulling the clutch fork.

I didn't use a pull slave cylinder after reading that they are very prone to leaking. Also, the stroke is apparently not always long enough to full disengage the clutch on the T5. I didn't use a slave cylinder mounted inside the bellhousing, because fixing a fluid leak or bleeding the fluid would require the engine to be removed.
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Steering rack: I got back the modified steering rack input shaft. The shaft clears the frame and lower radiator hose fine now. But, I just noticed the other day that it's not completely straight. It wobbles when turning :( So, I will contact the guy who modified it and see what options there are.
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Steering rack inner tie rod extensions: These added 1" each side and will line up the inner pivots with the upper and lower control arm pivot lines. I'm using the inner tie rods that came with the rack (Proheader). Note: the threads on the inner tie rod ends (rack side) are 14mm, not the factory 15/16".

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Outer heim joints: Drilled out the steering arm holes to 5/8" and used heim joints so they can be mounted above the steering arms (high steer?). The threads on the heims are 5/8" left-handed. But I could not find any sleeves to connect these to the inner tie-rods which are 9/16". For now, I cut a 5/8" threaded sleeve down and welded a big 9/16" thread nut onto the end. It's not a perfect job, and I hope to find the proper part before too much on-road driving.
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Mounted the rack: will reinforce the brackets later
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Added the firewall steering shaft bearing: and a short 3/4 DD shaft that connects to a u-joint connected to the Scion steering column shaft
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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: June 18, 2017, 11:48 am 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
Posts: 3725
Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
I'll be interested in your photos of the clutch setup mounted in place when you post them.

I've got an SN95 Mustang setup. It uses many of the same components as the Fox Body Mustang. My plan was to just make a new mechanism on the pedal box (yet to be designed and built) for the stock cable clutch using a quadrant from an aftermarket source. That would be more complicated than an extra hydraulic cylinder, but I wanted to avoid changing all the components inside the bell housing. Maybe your solution would be a better one than the one I have in mind?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: June 18, 2017, 1:42 pm 
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Joined: August 11, 2012, 10:56 pm
Posts: 187
Location: Arizona
Hi Lonnie -

I'll get the bracket mounted and take some pictures soon.

I tried for a while to make the clutch cable work. Last iteration, I had tried using a small pulley near the firewall in order to make a 90 deg turn in the cable. This was just to make the cable reach properly while avoiding the exhaust headers. I made the pulley bracket/mount out of thin steel, but still used double shear holding the pulley, and I reinforced it a little. Seemed strong enough.

But, I didn't anticipate how much tension is actually in the clutch cable, and when testing, I bent the pulley bracket. I also messed up the splines in the throttle pedal that I naively thought could work as a clutch cable pedal... :oops: Since the clutch cable pulls directly on the clutch fork, the pedal-side of the cable has to be pulled with something like 300 lbs (IIRC).

Perhaps some kind of linkage would work in order to use a cable, but the whole linkage will need to be pretty strong. And you'll still need good leverage at the pedal - a long clutch pedal. I measured a bit, and it looks like there would be problems trying to fit one. But I'm definitely interested if you come up with something that can use a cable :cheers:

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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: June 18, 2017, 2:02 pm 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
OK, Rob, I'll be looking for those photos sometime in the near future. Nice progress on all you've done recently!

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: June 18, 2017, 4:24 pm 
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Joined: August 11, 2012, 10:56 pm
Posts: 187
Location: Arizona
Thanks Lonnie

Ok here's the mounted bracket in action



The slave is facing in so that the bracket won't rub on the bellhousing. Seems to work ok. The clutch does disengage. I should make a better bracket with a longer adjusting bolt on the clutch fork. ALso, a longer hose would be nice. The clutch pedal doesn't feel all that heavy actually - the throw is a decent length though, hmm

Attachment:
clutchAction.gif
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edit: added guh-jif

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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: June 18, 2017, 7:56 pm 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Thank you, Rob. And, it's in motion too. Very cool!

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: July 17, 2018, 5:35 pm 
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Joined: June 13, 2014, 11:55 am
Posts: 62
Rob7 wrote:
Clutch: I was unable to find a good way to use the Fox Mustang clutch cable. So I ended up converting to hydraulic. I stole the idea from a Cobra forum. So I'm using a 1-1/8" bore master cylinder and 7/8" bore push slave cylinder. However! Using a push slave in the conventional way won't fit aft of the clutch fork because of the limited space between the transmission and the driver footwell.

So, I came up with a bracket that would allow the slave cyl to be mounted forward of the clutch fork. I'll take a picture with it mounted. The right side of the bracket mounts behind clutch fork, and the yellow push rod pushes on the bellhousing. So, the bracket and slave cylinder move forward, pulling the clutch fork.

I didn't use a pull slave cylinder after reading that they are very prone to leaking. Also, the stroke is apparently not always long enough to full disengage the clutch on the T5. I didn't use a slave cylinder mounted inside the bellhousing, because fixing a fluid leak or bleeding the fluid would require the engine to be removed.
Attachment:
IMG_4001r.JPG




Hi Rob, I went a slight ly different route, I have a .750" Slave and a .750" Master, I have no information on Travel required @ the Clutch lever, so I may need to get a larger diameter master.
I am using a OBP Pedal box with Compbraco Slaves.
I have not checked for available substitute masters
Do you have info on how much travel is required to disengage clutch?
I have engine and transmission out of the car and no practical way to measure.
Thanks in advance.
AA
PS: At some point in time I´ll upload pictures of my problem solving.


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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: July 17, 2018, 5:55 pm 
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The toe adjusters will work fine if you add jam nuts on each end. Otherwise they can rotate on the threads instead of at the balls.

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 Post subject: Re: Rob7's 442e 5.0
PostPosted: July 18, 2018, 8:38 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
Contact Day Motor Sport in Tyler TX, 800-543-6238 for tie rod sleeves " toe adjusters".
They have LH/RH sleeves in one inch increments, in several thread sizes. Real good prices.
DaveW


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