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Another bad thing about attaching the alternator output to the load side of the battery switch is fried electronics.

If the battery switch is opened when the motor is running bad things usually happen.
Without the battery to absorb the alternator output the regulator can't work fast enough to control the voltage and it gets spiky x1000.
That voltage wailing around rips through electronics like a buzzsaw, it's like hitting 12v devices with 220AC!


The correct way to connect the alternator output when using a battery cutout switch is to get the correct three terminal switch.
That switch will isolate the alternator output and properly remove battery power from all circuits in the car.

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Honey anyone?

Had the battery tested and it was only doing 17CCA vs the rated 170CCA. Bought a new one and moved on
Hopefully I can take her out tomorrow again.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

Not sure if you got the cooling issue fixed but I have a Derale fan and I love it, I would definitely recommend it. I think mine was about $100 for a 2 speed 12" puller. Right out of the box you can feel it is very well made. I was quite shocked at the amount of air it moves, one of the best value products on my car.

Here is a link to the one I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004X ... UTF8&psc=1

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

I got to drive the car yesterday!!

I ended up putting the Spal puller fan on, changing the battery, installing a new ignition switch, and changing the tranny fluid to help with the shifting. She felt good.

As far as running warm, she pretty much stayed at 185°-190° (engine temp) on the highway but once I started up Lookout Mountain she started to climb a bit at the slow speeds (90° day). Engine temp was around 206-210° with the radiator temps around 220°. For perspective, Lookout is about 20min from my house. I parked her for a bit while I chatted with a guy who has an actual At-om and on the way home she never got back about 195°. I don't know if she would have kept climbing if i would have continued driving. This still might be an issue on the track. hummmmm....

But she started up every time with no issue. There are definitely some rattles that I need to address and the alignment is off again. More work but that's fine as long as I can drive her

Also with out the scoop, the air temp stayed around 122° so that's not too bad on a 90° day.

I also got one of these just in case
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JY ... UTF8&psc=1

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

You won't regret the gooloo! That's a cool shot next to the A?om.

Gooloo?

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

HAHA, that's the brand you linked, and I own. We won't go camping without it, the flashlight is handy, and emergency power back up is never bad.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JY ... UTF8&psc=1

Oh. Yeah that thing is cool

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

Ugh.... all this rain sucks!!

Tried to sneak out between storms but that didn't work. The car wouldn't start. Even with the kill switch off, the battery somehow still drained. Usually that works fine so I don't know what is going on. The jump pack wouldn't start the car nor would another car. I charged the battery too 100% according to the charger but still nothing... No me I think there is a starter problem. I just ordered a new one.

I will swap that out and see what happens.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

What exactly does "wouldn't start" mean? Because you mentioned the starter, do you mean it won't crank at all? Does it even click - meaning that the solenoid's at least pulling in? Or do you mean it cranks but won't fire?

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
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Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

The starter just clicks.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

Before popping my new multimeter, to check amps, I was able to measure a 5 amp draw with the kill switch on but the main power switch off. With the kill switch off, I didnt read any draw. Now I just need to figure out where that is coming from. I know it's from the always on circuit but I'm not sure from where.

The starter is still clicking too with the battery fully charged. I haven't tested the battery though to make sure it's still good. I will need to take it to an auto parts store to figure that out. Ugh... electrical

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

It sounds to me like the solenoid is not getting the voltage it needs to engage and provide power to the starter motor. If your battery voltage is >12 VDC, and you have replaced the fuse in your multi meter, then check the voltage from the ign/sw at the solenoid (with solenoid disconnected) it should be real close to Batt. voltage. If that is good, follow the steps in the procedure at this site http://www.type2.com/bartnik/starter.htm. Hope this helps.
Walt

That seems like a huge power draw for the always on circuit.

Your multi meter is useful for volts too. I think a first sanity check is to look for voltage on the battery terminals while cranking. likewise on the cables. You can pull 12 volts from the battery thru bad connections and cables to run idiot lights, ECU etc. but totally fail when trying to pull 200+ amps to run the starter motor. It's easy to have a bad connection right at the battery terminals, they are typically covered in lead oxide. That's why they sell the battery terminal cleaners.

Not saying you are having these problems, but they are easy to check. For instance you can measure the battery voltage on the terminals, not the clamps, while cranking. If the voltage on the terminals is higher than on the clamps, that means you don't have a good connection. The voltage is being lost crossing from the terminals to the clamps. You won't notice this drop easily with just the 5A always on load, but with 50-100 times more load from the starter the voltage drop will also be 50-100 times greater.

Diagnosing the connection this way can be useful all the way to the starter motor terminals. It can check the cables and it's connectors too.

If the battery voltage is not undergoing a large drop then it is not undergoing a large load. These things are intertwined. Even observing your headlights will give you a voltage indication. It's a voltmeter connected to your main harness. If they go completely out when you try to start the engine, you probably have a bad connection upstream - like at the battery. If they don't dim when you try to crank, that means you have a bad connection downstream - like the selenoid is not working which means the starter motor is not causing a large load.

The pointer above looks helpful also.
Don't give up!

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I have measured the battery voltage and it was above 12v so that is ok (but i will have it tested today in case there is a CCA issue like with the old one which i doubt since the battery is brand new).

There is absolutely no corrosion and almost everything is new. The solenoid is getting power (its clicking) so either the starter is bad or its not getting/pulling enough amps from the battery. Since i bought a new starter anyway, I will toss that on and in conjunction with testing the battery and from there i will know if its the starter, bat or wiring in between.

Now I just need to figure out where that 5amp drain is coming from. The only things that I labeled that are on the always on circuit are the headlights, ecu, tach and fan. The fan is switched so that's not on, the headlights are not connected so that's ok and the tach is pulling like .3 or less amps. I will need to pull fuses (5 of them) until its gone. Ugh. However, there are two other things wired up to the always on so I will need to put the amp meter on those as well (not fused, yeah i know). I will find it and kill it!!!!

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.