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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 19, 2018, 11:07 pm 
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Location: No. Nevada
The Dio Tipo body I have has been passed from owner to owner for a long time, maybe decades.
Not carefully stored so has warped to the point of having a curve behind the hood bulge that is not supposed to be there.
Today I bought some supples to fix that. :)
Not sure if anyone would be interested in my documenting how I will go about flattening and reinforcing it?
Probably not an issue with Seven type cars due to the small area of "Flat" fiberglass used.
But I know I am not the only one working with old fiberglass bodies.

Let me know please and I will take pics if there is interest.

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PostPosted: February 21, 2018, 10:21 am 
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I'm interested Richard.


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PostPosted: February 21, 2018, 12:06 pm 
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I used to have good success with heat gun and gentle pressure on kayaks that would oil can over time. Would like to see your process.

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PostPosted: February 21, 2018, 12:27 pm 
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Bring it on, Richard! Sounds interesting!!!

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PostPosted: February 22, 2018, 2:20 pm 
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Lets start with pics of the issue and the first repair item.

Attachment:
IMG_2358.jpg


Attachment:
IMG_2359.jpg


Attachment:
IMG_2363.jpg


I've marked the frame location on the bottom side.
Next I will buy a half-sheet of melamine and cut it to clear the hood bulge.
Then mount to 2x4's to clear the ground.

Will wax the top to prevent fiberglass from sticking then use screws to pull the bulge down tight on the flat surface.
With that done I will try some epoxy to attach the red plastic tube to the underside of the warped area to create reinforcing ribs.
Then fill the undercut of the tube with fiberglass and micro-balloon mix.
Once that sets I will put a few layers of fiberglass over the plastic line.
This will create 3-D reinforcement to hold the shape I want.
Should work much better than just slapping another layer of flat 'glass onto the underside.

More pics as I get time to actually DO it.


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PostPosted: February 22, 2018, 2:35 pm 
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A heat gun has worked for me. I had some motorcycle race bodywork that was a rush job for the first race of the year. I think they pulled it out of the mold a little too quickly. By the time we got it the think a sunk like a jelly mold, we had no option we were a few days away from the first race, and it had to get painted. But with a heat gun and some patience it worked perfectly, it took a few heat cycles some bungee cords and masking tape but we got it back to it's correct shape.

Graham


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PostPosted: February 22, 2018, 2:44 pm 
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Pretty large area for a heat gun.
I think my repair will be stronger and more certain or permanency.
It will certainly reduce future flexing which leads to crazing of the gel-coat.

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PostPosted: February 22, 2018, 2:55 pm 
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I would use a combination of both.

Graham


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PostPosted: February 23, 2018, 7:36 pm 
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One of my front fenders from Curtis looked like it had been stored on edge when it was still very green. It was narrower than the other side. I use heat lamps for several hours and mechanically spread it out. Then I let it cool and sit for a couple of days. Seemed to work OK.

With the flat surface the rib reinforcement seems like the way to go.

Ron


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PostPosted: February 26, 2018, 9:07 am 
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Ya mean fiberglass body panels are supposed to be smooth and symmetrical??? Geeze, who knew? :rofl:

JDK

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PostPosted: February 26, 2018, 10:02 am 
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Instead of the red plastic tube, try using a couple of thin strips of spruce. I laminated three 1 1/2 wide 1/4 thick strips to the inside of my old glass bugeye bonnet. The arched lamination worked like a charm.

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OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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