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PostPosted: May 8, 2019, 8:15 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC
I have gotten a bit of work done over the last few weeks. The dash is now steel although not final painted, I wanted it black to get an idea of what it will look like when done. Ultimately, I plan to paint it in a heavy wrinkle finish.
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I created the tank straps which use U-bolts for tension.
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And I created the curved frame pieces that follow the curve of the rear fender. I am surprised how much these limit the seat sliding backwards. Luckily, I have 2 click farther backward from where I need to be to reach the pedals (I am 6' 3").
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PostPosted: May 9, 2019, 10:59 am 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
It's all looking very nice. I especially like the dash - very clean.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: May 9, 2019, 8:33 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Thanks Lonnie! All of the gauges are easily visible (although I might rearrange the order) and all switches are easily actuated with gloves on.

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PostPosted: May 15, 2019, 8:03 am 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC
This week I have been working on the front fender mounts (aka: wing stays). I really don't have to many options as to how to mount the stay to the hub so I used Caterham's idea to use the upper ball joint stud. I have a vertical leg in the front going to the steering arm where the adjustable steering stop would mount. The main piece is 1.5"x 0.125" and the rest is 1.0"x0.125". I plan to use rubber isolator washers to allow the fiberglass fender to move slightly. I also plan to add a gusset at the 45* bend on the vertical leg. Please feel free to make suggestions as this has been an item I was not looking forward to and I am unsure if it will be strong enough.
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PostPosted: May 15, 2019, 10:50 am 
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Joined: August 31, 2015, 2:24 pm
Posts: 169
Location: Delaware
What are the dimensions on those front fenders. I'm having a hack of a time sourcing anything at a reasonable price and will probably end up making my own as well. Looks great.


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PostPosted: May 15, 2019, 7:13 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
hfmaxi wrote:
What are the dimensions on those front fenders. I'm having a hack of a time sourcing anything at a reasonable price and will probably end up making my own as well. Looks great.

They are 37" long when measuring around the arc and 9.5" wide. They were made for a 205/50r15 tire. racepedals made the mold using a steel fender and then added a strip of metal in the middle to create the mold for them.

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PostPosted: May 25, 2019, 4:03 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC
I got my serial number from the state today (aka: VIN)!! Now I just have to complete the car and take it to the DMV for inspection and it will be a street legal vehicle :)

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PostPosted: May 25, 2019, 5:00 pm 
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Joined: June 20, 2010, 10:49 am
Posts: 137
Location: Concord, NC
Looks good. I'm jealous--- I have not been able to touch mine in a long time.


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PostPosted: May 27, 2019, 4:33 am 
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Those fenders do look great. :cheers:

If you are still looking for fender mount input, here are a few mods to what you have that will make it more rigid so it does not flex, work harden, then crack. When/if they do, might want to make them the legs easily removable on the side of the road. Just cut off the legs 3 inches above the ubj, flange both sides of the 3 inches down to the ubj plate, drill two 3/8 bolt holes to hang the legs on, then make new legs that overlap the three inches. Don't worry about unsprung weight when it comes to fender mounts.


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MV8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om3C1Ep ... D3E18BB447
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PostPosted: May 27, 2019, 3:12 pm 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Congratulations to you, of course. Getting a VIN is huge.

On the other hand, I'm even more jealous than Racepedals. :crying:

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: May 28, 2019, 10:20 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
The compliments on the fenders go to Racepedals as they are from his mold.

But I agree, I really like the look of them and there is enough "meat" to rotate them toward the rear to guard against kick up from the tires.

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PostPosted: July 5, 2019, 4:51 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
MV8: I had similar thoughts but there is very limited room. I might leave it as is to do an auto-x or 2 then beef them up before final install.

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PostPosted: July 5, 2019, 4:51 pm 
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Joined: September 24, 2013, 4:06 pm
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC
I am working on the interior panels as I am preparing for my first auto-x in Concord, NC on July 20th. I have created the templates and I am ready to cut the Al but I was wondering if using rivnuts instead of rivets would be okay for the rear bulkhead. I was thinking of using steel M5 rivnuts with button head screws every 8-10 inches or so. I am thinking this for 2 reasons:
1. The chassis isn't complete yet so I will need to remove the bulkhead to finish weld and paint
2. I am sure i have managed to paint myself in a corner somehow that requires access through the bulkhead but i haven't identified it yet :?

Your thoughts?

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PostPosted: July 16, 2019, 11:08 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
I have been working frantically to get the car ready for the autocross this weekend. It is an SCCA sanctioned club and I never heard back from them as to whether or not I need a roll bar. So.....

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Last edited by Mnot on July 17, 2019, 8:41 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: July 17, 2019, 7:25 am 
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Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
I haven't checked the SCCA rules in a while, but Solo (autocross) did not require a roll bar for open cars as of a couple of years ago.
It's not a bad thing to have one though, and if you go much higher in the racing world, you're going to need one any way. Good luck on Sunday!

:cheers:
JDK

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