so i checked the alignment front to back on the front a arm ball joints, then drew a line between them, then i centered the rack and steering wheel.
on my diff there is a casting mark dead center, this gave me a front and back datum point, then set up a lazer to point to the front going through the mark on the diff this is at right angles to the line from front ball joint to ball joint, lucky me!
i fitted my alignment gauges to the rear wheels, it was off a long way front to back and side to side.
i measured the track width at the back and divided it by 2 then moved the short front to back side to equal the long side, this was at right angles to the front ball joint to ball joint line.
next i set the drivers side wheel to be parallel to the center line and half the width of the rear track so zero toe, then i set the passenger side wheel parallel to the center line and the same dimension and then double checked the overall track dimension and both were equal, well almost but within a 1/16 th of an inch on the overall compared to the sum of the two halves but still parallel.
now all i have to do is the rear camber but my digital indicator ran out of battery on the 4th of July so i will get to that tomorrow.
Dave, i did not use the tire pattern as a guide on the measurements, i made some nifty alignment gauges that clamp to the rims and are indexed to be perfectly true and extend fore and aft to match the tire outside diameter and low enough to pass two tape measures under the car so i can read off front and rear of the wheels as i adjust and still know the mid point between the wheels on the center line is half the track.
_________________ this story shall the good man teach his son, and chrispin chrispian shall ne'er go by, from this day to the end of the world. but we in it shall be remembered.
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