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PostPosted: January 31, 2020, 9:11 pm 
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Thanks Chuck, I used brake fluid liberally when assembling it. I have more pressure with a bleeder open than I had before so I am hoping this solves it. I still don't know what was wrong with the piston assembly. This is the new next to the old:
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PostPosted: February 1, 2020, 12:48 pm 
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Mnot wrote:
Thanks Chuck, I used brake fluid liberally when assembling it. I have more pressure with a bleeder open than I had before so I am hoping this solves it. I still don't know what was wrong with the piston assembly. This is the new next to the old:
Attachment:
IMG_3278z.jpg



I hope a road test confirms the fix. :cheers:

I offer no guarantees. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: February 2, 2020, 5:57 pm 
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Success!!

I did the same route I have been doing and the brakes felt great. They are firm but there is some movement in the pedal for modulation. I don't have the bias bar adjust hooked up so I had to deal with too much rear bias but it wasn't too bad. Most importantly, the pedal feel was consistent the whole time, which is a first. I will probably drive it a few times, just because I can, and then begin disassembly.

Thanks guys!

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PostPosted: February 2, 2020, 8:00 pm 
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Well done! :cheers:

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PostPosted: February 3, 2020, 9:28 am 
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It pains me to think that the culprit was a new part. I remade all of the hard lines for the front at least once, went through a metric ton of brake fluid, had multiple iffy drives, and lost a lot of time on the build. But, I can now move forward. I will do a few celebratory drives in the next week or so, then start to disassemble for final welding, blasting, and paint.

thanks for the help!

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PostPosted: February 5, 2020, 11:04 am 
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Good going, Gavin. You really stuck with the problem, and sought out help when you needed it and now it's solved.

I learned a lot just by following along.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: February 5, 2020, 6:57 pm 
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Lonnie, that is one of the beautiful things about this site. We can learn from each other, and then make our own mistakes :cheers:

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PostPosted: February 9, 2020, 5:58 pm 
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I took it for a drive today and the brakes still feel just as good as they did on the last drive. A bit biased to the rear but I think I can tune that out as the bias bar is in the middle at the moment. Also both M/C rods are even and I think the rear is supposed to be 2-3 turns off of the front. At this point, I think I am ready to say it is fixed and ready for disassembly.

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PostPosted: February 9, 2020, 10:07 pm 
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While it may have taken some time to get there, the real fix was inexpensive. That is always a good thing. Glad to hear it is done and you can enjoy. Now get out there and tear up some asphalt. :cheers:

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PostPosted: February 11, 2020, 10:47 pm 
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Thanks Chuck, it just sucks that I lost so much time sorting it out.

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PostPosted: February 11, 2020, 10:48 pm 
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it has begun, the end is near :twisted:
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PostPosted: February 12, 2020, 1:44 am 
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What are you doing for paint and prep? Sand blast, metal etch, etch primer, epoxy primer, etc?

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PostPosted: February 12, 2020, 6:07 pm 
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After final welding, I am considering having it blasted then use epoxy chassis paint. I read your thread regarding the process. Any recommendations now that you have recently painted yours?

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PostPosted: February 13, 2020, 12:19 pm 
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Mnot wrote:
After final welding, I am considering having it blasted then use epoxy chassis paint. I read your thread regarding the process. Any recommendations now that you have recently painted yours?


I'm glad I had mine blasted. For the cost it was a really easy decision. For other prep/primer, I considered:

-Nothing or using a metal etch, decided to go with Por15 Metal Prep;
-Self etching primer;
-Epoxy primer; and,
-Standard Tremclad primer, which is what I used.

I think an epoxy primer would be the way to go, I just didn't want to pay for it verse the Tremclad. Wish my paint was a bit harder/durable, but seems to be working okay so far.

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PostPosted: February 14, 2020, 9:38 pm 
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Some of the epoxy paints I am seeing state it is ideal to apply to bare metal. Not sure if it is a good idea or not

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-up501q?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw4Ky9rHS5wIVmZOzCh3kTQuDEAQYCCABEgIbwvD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP652-6-PK-Satin-Weather/dp/B00B3V2YAO

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