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 Post subject: Misc pics
PostPosted: December 12, 2007, 4:45 am 
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Some miscellanious pictures I wasn't able to develop until recently.


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PostPosted: December 12, 2007, 10:30 pm 
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Check you out, dude, with all the hot chicks in your garage! :wink:
The only hot chicks found in my garage are coming from el pollo loco in case I'm taking it to go... :lol:

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PostPosted: December 13, 2007, 1:07 am 
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Heh. Those are both of Lisa. There should be more to come, if all goes well. She's into cars; it'd be cool to get her started on one too, but I think more realistically, we'll work on a fix-er-up for her.


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PostPosted: December 17, 2007, 1:33 pm 
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Well, not too much has been happening... working on the brakes a little; busy with a few other things in life too.

At least I am finished with the hardlines for the moment. I still have to install a T for a pressure switch, but that will probably wait until the electrical stage. Now I have to work on the steering rack and column. Ugh.

Snow! (again)... We got about 8" of snow last night. The picture doesn't look deep--that's because my Mini's airdam served as a snowplow in that area before I stepped in it. The grill's packed solid with snow and ice; and whenever making speed in the back roads, all you can see is snow flying over the top of the car... looks cool, but you'd better know what's ahead of you while doing so!


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PostPosted: December 17, 2007, 3:31 pm 
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SteyrTMP wrote:
At least I am finished with the hardlines for the moment. I still have to install a T for a pressure switch, but that will probably wait until the electrical stage. Now I have to work on the steering rack and column. Ugh...


I'm probably preaching to the choir here, but be sure to support those hard lines. Vibration is a killer.

And on the cautious side, I would personally safety wire those spring clips (not sure the correct term) on the clevis pins to secure them closed. I don't think they'd ever come off on their own, but it doesn't take much for something else to pull/push them free.

Another option would be a safety ring (looks like a tiny keyring) instead of the spring clip, or plain old safety wire behind a close-tolerance washer.

-dave

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PostPosted: December 18, 2007, 12:59 am 
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The ring idea sounds good, and for mounting, I haven't supported any of the brake lines yet. Just a few zipties along the tranny tunnel--I'm waiting until I'm sure that's where they need to go before mounting them.


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PostPosted: December 22, 2007, 5:15 am 
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Well, once again, after much delay, I finally said screw it and welded in place my steering wheel assembly. It was slightly easier than I expected, although getting the correct dimensions for the side-mounts on the frame was a little challenging without having any real way of measuring the angles and whatnot, but as most of the parts lately, I just go by eye and then fine-tooth it once it gets in the general direction of where I want it to go.

No, I didn't take any pictures of me sitting in it and going vroom... I'll let Lisa do that perhaps. She's much more photogenic than me.


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PostPosted: December 22, 2007, 5:24 am 
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One thing you will notice that differs against most other Locosts I've seen up to now is the fact that my column is upside down (I think), and is mounted on top of the bracket, rather than under a bracket. I think this will allow more room in the scuttle, and for me, it was easier to make as well as it appears to be more sturdy with less steel overall. I have yet to install the scuttle, but I checked out the height roughly before installing and am pretty sure I have plenty of room. As there is no steering lock, and the wheel is detachable, it doesn't really matter to me.

I do plan on coming up with some sort of accordian-like rubber... thing... to cover the extra column that will be exposed once the scuttle is in place. I think I may already have what I need off the initial mounting part for the Momo wheel.

One interesting thing to note (not really visible here, take a look at the picture with the wheel on it) is that with this setup, the break-away collapsing part of the column will work. I do not know if the Miata uses the same setup as the MGB, but the bolts mount in aluminum brackets that are capable of sliding out from the column assembly if the column is hit hard from the front.


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PostPosted: December 22, 2007, 11:46 am 
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Looks good, SteyrTMP. I think mine's going to end up similar, except I've got overhead pedals to deal with.

The column support looks pretty massive, so you probably don't need this...but consider putting some gussets between the side walls and the top. Maybe a triangle in each corner, or perhaps a 1/2" strip across the front edge of the top, welded to sides and top. That would go a long way to stiffen it up. Like I said, probably overkill, but free to do and adds almost zero weight.

Keep up the good work, and post more pictures! :-)


-dave

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PostPosted: December 22, 2007, 1:58 pm 
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I've thought of triangulation, but if I put it anywhere, I'll probably support that small piece that holds the bottom end of the column. I whaled away at the setup a few times, and with 1/8", it's not going anywhere.


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PostPosted: December 24, 2007, 6:05 am 
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Well, I just came in from finishing the steering assembly. I now have the rack mounted, the extension tacked (have to remember to finish weld that tomorrow), and connected everything together.

Originally, I intended on having the rod coming out of the rack itself almost parallel with the floor of the engine bay, and having a relatively hard angle for the extension, thus allowing the exhaust primaries to exit above the triangulation. However, after looking at Keith's book some more, I decided to follow his example, and have the header exiting below the steering column, and allow the column U-joints more freedom and less angle to deal with.

Measuring where to place the stupid rack brackets sucked. I'm still not satisfied with the finished item; I'm going to have to go and bore out the bolt holes to allow a little bit of adjustment--one side of the rack is a little off from where the other is, about maybe a millimeter or two.

I'm a little concerned about the bump steer factor; but without actually being able to drive, it's hard to tell how bad it's going to be.

I've been tossing around the idea of modifying/buying new tie rod ends, boring out the whole, and mounting them upside down, with the ball joint on the top, making an almost perfect line between the tie rods and the rack itself.... I'll have to see how it handles as is on the street and track once I'm done before going to this point.

The rack itself is a little on the long side, but definately nowhere near as far as the Miata rack, and with the MGB rack, I don't have to cut (yet). From looking at Keith's book, it looks like my rack's about maybe 1.5-2" longer, maybe a tad more, not sure. I'll have to look into this a little more in the future, but as with the bump steer, I'll have to see how it handles.

I know, there are no supports on the steering column... all in good time... I'm waiting for my pillow block bearings; I intend on mounting at least two, possibly three.

I'm getting pretty tired, I'll probably have more to say tomorrow. I'll start on the headers tomorrow, I think.


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PostPosted: December 24, 2007, 6:08 am 
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A few more...


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PostPosted: January 11, 2008, 3:35 am 
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Well, I've been dawdling a little... Ok, a lot. The equal length headers is a challenge. I've never dealt with exhaust before, so I'm learning as I go, I guess. I chopped the original 1.5" primaries off, and after look at my 1 5/8" tubing, I realized that the originals were flared. I have no sort of tool to flare mine with, so I may try to do without. The only problem is the flange is considerably larger than the tubing, so I'd probably have to center the tubing, and fill the gap between the tubing and flange with weld. I will then take a carbide burr and taper the weld and tubing.

I'm still trying to figure out how I am going to shape the primaries to keep the equal length. I went to Home Depot today and bought 45 feet of 12 gauge jacketed solid copper wire for 7 cents a foot; it was on sale, what could I say? I stripped it, and am using it to design the routing for the tubing. I'll probably add pictures when I am finished shaping them all.

Any thoughts?


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PostPosted: January 11, 2008, 4:00 am 
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More pictures.

I considered buffing/sanding the back of the manifold flange, but because I want to make sure I have a tight exhaust gasket seal, I simply soaked it in carb cleaner instead.


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PostPosted: January 11, 2008, 9:56 am 
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I don't see an issue with filling the gap with weld then shaping it. Another thing you might do is to only weld a 1.5 inch stub to the flange. This should give you enough length to go from the oval port back to the round tube. You can then easily attach your mandrel bends to the stubs and make your life much easier. That is how I've seen many headers built and it's how I'm going to do mine as well. I have a header flange for my Datsun engine that I was going to do the same thing with for a custom turbo manifold also.

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