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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: May 21, 2008, 1:39 pm 
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I wouldn't even have to process it. I could just let it hang there and drive around until it was jerky!
:zoom:
Yum! :lol:

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PostPosted: May 21, 2008, 2:30 pm 
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In that case, just be sure that you carefully take it OFF the barbed wire BEFORE you try to eat it. :shock:

I know it looks tasty but I think it's an important step to remember! :D

Congrats on your progress with the build.


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PostPosted: June 11, 2008, 10:38 am 
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I think my favorite color in the whole world is "UPS Brown" 8)
He brought me an assortment of goodies yesterday...

1st, my saaaweeeet MOMO Team 300mm Leather wrapped steering wheel with horn and hub adapter came last night.


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PostPosted: June 11, 2008, 10:39 am 
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Next came some new 8mm jacket Cobalt plug wires to replace the tired stock units. (Who knows if they've EVER been changed!)


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PostPosted: June 11, 2008, 10:43 am 
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Then an Oil Filter re-location kit. - If any of you have ever serviced a miata you know what a messy PITA it is to change the filter. I'm guessing I might have a little more access on the Lotus, but this is something that will make oil changes a snap. - And if I ever add an oil cooler, I already have half the fittings I need!


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PostPosted: June 11, 2008, 10:50 am 
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And last but not least, yet another order from Midwest Control Products.

They were out of a few things last time I ordered, and after building the front control arms I realized the likelihood of having to remake at least one or two control arms was pretty high so I bought some spare bungs and a handful of extra 1/2" rod ends for replacements down the road.

I think I came up with a good solution for the lower rear upright mounts. I like the Westfield bushing style rod ends, but I'm not aware of anyone on this forum who has found a supplier, so while putzing in the garage one night I measured the lower holes and discovered they are 14mm. Convenient, Rod ends come in 14mm. "Why can't I just use standard rod ends on either side of the upright and run a 14mm bolt through it all!?"
So that's what I'm going to do. They are on the right in the photo.

Now if I could just find some TIME to work on it!!!


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PostPosted: June 11, 2008, 5:46 pm 
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I know I'm a total Engineering Dork, but I thought this was interesting. It's my spend profile by date.
If you plot a trendline and display the equation you come up with a $'s per day figure.
Turns out since I bought the donor I've averaged $6.05 spent per day. That includes the various tools I've purchased along the way to the tune of about $1000...

Maybe you find it interesting, maybe you don't. But at least now you know.


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Last edited by rust_bucket on October 15, 2010, 9:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: June 11, 2008, 8:00 pm 
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Good idea that graph! I think that's cool. You can see spending slows thru the Xmas and then picks up afterward :)

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PostPosted: June 11, 2008, 11:30 pm 
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horizenjob wrote:
Good idea that graph! I think that's cool. You can see spending slows thru the Xmas and then picks up afterward :)


And do we spy a little economic stimulus toward the end there?

Dubya, you old dog... ;-)

-dave

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PostPosted: June 19, 2008, 10:33 am 
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Well I FINALLY made some progress last night. I was able to sneak out to the garage (ignoring the 6” tall grass on the way) and spend one, count it (1) hour on the car.

I finally got my order back from the tubing bender dude. He started out doing custom buggies for Moab and such but had a hard time making ends meet. He now specializes in custom cages for Rhino-type 4-wheeler truck thingies or whatever the new class of ORV is called. He’s got a nice rotary draw bender and does it all out of his garage. He was close, cheap and friendly but also slow. – Oh well, it’s not like I’VE been making good progress anyway!

Here’s a pic of the rear structure in place (at last!)


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PostPosted: June 19, 2008, 10:33 am 
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This is the roll bar. He left the excess. My cut mark is hidden behind the tube in the foreground. I went with a 10° cant on the verticals. I think it will look just about right.


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PostPosted: June 19, 2008, 10:35 am 
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I also got the old wheel pulled and the MOMO wheel mounted. It looks killer!


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PostPosted: June 19, 2008, 10:37 am 
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I have to admit this is my first aftermarket wheel/hub kit. – Am I missing something on how to make the horn work? The MOMO hub has this shiney ring in the back I assume some kind of a brush rubs on to make continuous contact during turning, but the Miata column only has this wire spool thing (dangling below in the pic) that I think is just for the airbag. The hub won’t mount with it in place and with it removed there is nothing that looks like it should attach to the back of the wheel.
- Anyone have experience with MOMO hubs in Miatas?


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PostPosted: June 25, 2008, 10:33 am 
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I got the main hoop of the roll bar tacked in place. The 10° slant off of vertical looks just about perfect. I will cant the windshield in 10° as well so they match. - It's coming along nicely.

I also did some research (Thank You Google) on installing a Momo hub in a miata. Apparently it is not trivial.
There are several approaches, all of which require substantial modification to the hub and or wire spool.
It will be worth it in the end, but considering how proud Momo is of their hubs and wheels (about $300 by the time you get wheel and hub and horn) you'd think it would just snap in place. Sheesh!
Here's a link for anyone else who has this issue.

http://www.miata.net/garage/momo/index.html

There is also a home-made horn contact approach you can find if you google NSX and Momo hub. - I don't have the link right now.

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PostPosted: June 25, 2008, 9:52 pm 
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What radius are the bends in the upper 1" hoop thingie that wraps around the rear of the car? I don't have my book, but they're 3/4" in the book. I've been thinking about using 1", and should have thought harder before parking in front of that lady in Eureka.

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