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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: August 11, 2008, 3:01 pm 
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Location: Lexington, KY
BrianG701 wrote:
I got my subframe back from the sandblaster today and it looks great. the POR-15 will have no issue sticking top the surface, its like 120 grit sandpaper. I ordered the new seals for my rear end today and with some lick they will be here tomorrow. So wed has become painting day and my subframe and rear suspension will get some POR-15 sprayed on :D .


Wow! Those look great. Is that bare metal? Looks like a primer coat to me.

Regarding the POR-15 and the rough surface... I'm not sure if sandpaper-rough is what the POR-15 needs to grip. I'm thinking it needs to be more chemical-rough. (Okay...I made that term up. Sue me.) You might consider hitting it with Metal-Etch ($10/gallon from the racing department of Home Depot) for good measure.

But like I said, "I don't know." You could contact your paint reseller or the manufacturer if you want to know for sure...or just etch it. Or don't worry about. The more I learn, the more I think I worry too much.

-dave

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PostPosted: August 11, 2008, 5:14 pm 
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Location: Sunny-Okanagan, Canada, eh?!
BrianG701 wrote:
with some lick they will be here tomorrow.


Um. Where is this place you get the seals from? :shock: Is there not a better way? Then again..... :oops: :oops:

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PostPosted: August 11, 2008, 6:31 pm 
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
Yeah dave its bare metal, i thought the same thing when i saw it at the sandblaster's


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PostPosted: August 11, 2008, 7:09 pm 
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Location: denver, co
I was painting the engine bay of one of my cars this past weekend. The prep was variable. Down to bare metal in some parts, over paint in others, and simply cleaned with isoproply alcohol in others. No matter what, it stuck big time. It's as tough as they say. I eventually decided to use the subframe and I'm going to paint it with minimal prep. I'll just clean it off, spray it with marine clean, and spray it with metal etch. It will come out shiny black and indestructible.


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PostPosted: August 11, 2008, 10:15 pm 
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
I had it sandblasted because I did not have the time to do it myself (or the equip) I plan on washing it with metal etch and then spraying the POR on. I am going to pull out the bushings from the wings on the diff and make a program to run on the CNC lathe at school next week. I need to get some nylon and some tube ordered to make new bushings for my suspension.
Does anyone know if Threebond 1211 will work to seal the flange on my diff where the cast meets the carrier?


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PostPosted: August 13, 2008, 9:49 pm 
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
Well I got my booth mostly done today, I also found out that the seals I ordered were too small :BH: so I am on the hunt for the right ones tonight, here are some pics of my booth and the prepped parts:
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PostPosted: August 14, 2008, 9:01 pm 
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
Well I sprayed on two med thickness coats today my 15 dollar spray gun proved worthy of the POR-15 Im glad I wore the Tyvec coveralls although they were hot I am still POR-15 free :D the parts came out nice looking except for a couple runs but what can I say it was only my second time spaying a paint like POR. here are some pics:
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PostPosted: August 14, 2008, 9:39 pm 
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Location: Charleston, WV
Looks very nice.

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PostPosted: August 14, 2008, 10:28 pm 
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
Thanks Chet


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PostPosted: August 16, 2008, 5:52 pm 
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
I want to give a big thanks to Chet for the stub shafts that got to me via UPS yesterday. My only worry is that the worn out seals that came on my rear do not touch the stub shafts on the od at all, I have new OEM seals coming in on Monday and then I will be able to see if it is the seal or the shafts, I'm hooping it is the seals because the shafts Chet sent are mint. I never thought that turbo II parts would be so very hard to find, the best source I have found is my local dealer and the seem to be the cheapest too, the seals that all the local parts houses wanted $20+ for were only $8 at the dealer :D, so I learned my lesson, go to the dealer first...


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PostPosted: August 16, 2008, 7:16 pm 
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Location: denver, co
If you need other RX-7 parts, try:

http://www.apexautoparts.net/

If he doesn't have it, he'll get it. He is the best used parts dealers I have ever known. I found out I couldn't use a set of stub shafts and I was just going to toss them. They wouldn't have any of it and insisted I send them back for credit.


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PostPosted: August 16, 2008, 8:01 pm 
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Location: Charleston, WV
Glad you got them intact. I hope they seal well for you.

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PostPosted: August 18, 2008, 2:10 pm 
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Well I got my seals today... they were the right ones :D however they confirmed my worst fears as far as the fit of the stub axles they wont fit the seals :( , so I went ahead and ordered new OEM ones from my parts guy for $140 ea. :shock: :( . What had happened was that there was a "vin split" where they changed some parts on the cars mid model year and my diff is on the other side of the split from chet's which is why the stub axles are slightly different dia. at the seal (less than .050). Fortunately for me they will still go into the diff proper to do my mock up of the rear end while I wait for my uber expensive OEM parts to get here from Cali....


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PostPosted: August 18, 2008, 2:41 pm 
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That sucks. Did you find out at what vin point or year the RX-7 axles changed? Mine were from an 88 I was told, and my 99 Miata axles fit, but don't seal perfectly in it. :? I noticed some light oil spray radiating from the axle seals. (hopefully I just need new seals- I was too cheap to replace mine) If the later ones were any bigger there would be no way they would seal.

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PostPosted: August 18, 2008, 2:53 pm 
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
Now I just need to figure out which cv axles will bolt up to the flanges, my 93's dont seem to fit :(
Mabey I could make an adapter plate :?


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