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PostPosted: August 18, 2008, 3:23 pm 
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BrianG701 wrote:
Now I just need to figure out which cv axles will bolt up to the flanges, my 93's dont seem to fit :(
Mabey I could make an adapter plate :?


Is the bolt pattern too large or too small?

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PostPosted: August 18, 2008, 3:27 pm 
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
it seems to be too small on the halfshafts, but after some time on google I think that the 94-95 half shafts will fit I just need the specs on the bolt pattern to insure a fit and then I will need to make sure the halfshafts will fit my hubs and uprights...

I just got off the phone with FM and they were kind enough to measure the dia of the one piece cv shaft at the seal for me, it is 38mm which I believe to be the same size as the seal area on my turbo II stubs so I may just have found a solution to my halfshaft problem,
next question is will they work with my hubs and uprights?


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PostPosted: August 19, 2008, 2:56 pm 
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BrianG701 wrote:
Now I just need to figure out which cv axles will bolt up to the flanges, my 93's dont seem to fit :(
Mabey I could make an adapter plate :?


How far off are they? I used 94's and they were really close, as I mentioned earlier. The outer cv's interchange on all miata's. So you are definitely using Turbo II stubs?


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PostPosted: August 19, 2008, 9:56 pm 
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
I have the turbo II stubs on order but I haven't paid yet so I have a few days to figure it out. right now I am working on mounting the diff to the subframe. I have designed some steel bushings to go in place of the old rubber ones I just have to make a couple more measurements.
BTW do the rubber mounts for the miata have the same amount of steel tube sticking out the rubber mount?


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PostPosted: August 20, 2008, 11:56 pm 
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
I got my bushings cut today for mounting the diff, I need to take off about .300 to make the fit right but I am a believer in cut it long when it comes to steel. them I am going to mill out the area between the outside and the inner hole to lighten them up.
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PostPosted: August 21, 2008, 12:14 am 
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So thats what one of those housings looks like clean... :)

Looking good.

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PostPosted: August 21, 2008, 3:02 pm 
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Where did you get the bushings. Those look amazing :!:


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PostPosted: August 21, 2008, 4:35 pm 
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I made them in the machine shop at school on the cnc lathe and then did the finish sizing on a southbend manual lathe also at school, I just finised reseizing them because they were intentionally cut long so I could make sure everything fit right


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PostPosted: August 22, 2008, 4:09 pm 
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I got some more work done today, I cleaned up a bit then I mounted the rear end into the subframe with the trimmed bushings and it fits perfect :D , I checked off the rear f the "wings" and the diff is straight now all I need to do is make sure that the rear is centered, then I am going to start making my diff mount and hunting for a motor.
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PostPosted: August 22, 2008, 6:33 pm 
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Looking good. I'm following your build with interest because it's almost exactly the same except for the motor.


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PostPosted: August 23, 2008, 1:52 pm 
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Location: Just South of Charlotte, NC on Lake Wylie
Well I've got some decisions to make yet again this time it revolves around my engine/trans. My friend has a blown SR20-det that died from oil starvation due to a bad oil pump. He has offered it to me for a very low price, I have looked up the parts for the "worst case scenario" which would mean the engine needs a complete overhaul and new internals it totals about $3150.00 for top of the line parts to take it from long block to running engine. He can also get me a running engine from Japan for about $2500.00 with "low miles", I have spent the last day going over the pros and cons of each and I have come up with this so far:

Pros: If I build it it will be "new", it will have most of the parts I would want anyway, I would know the condition of the internals, less lead time to get it, I will be done to my specs.
Cons: will cost more to build from a long block, if the crank is bad that will add $$$ to the cost, have to build it (not much of a con)

I would like to hear your opinions on this because I am on the fence with it but I am leaning towards building it because I will get my frame done quicker and therefore less rust removal and no several month stall while saving for the motor from Japan.
Btw I am going to look at the motor on Monday any suggestions for stuff to look at other than the obvious?


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PostPosted: August 23, 2008, 2:09 pm 
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I'd build one.
You can never tell what's the real condition of the imported engine and the price difference is not big enough to justify it, at least not IMHO.

Plus, you have a built motor that you can crank more HP out of, more than rear end can handle, anyway .

Moti

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PostPosted: August 23, 2008, 6:26 pm 
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Moti, that's exactly what I was thinking. I'd rather spend some more $$ and know exactly what I have then buy and engine/trans sight unseen.


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PostPosted: August 23, 2008, 11:30 pm 
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Note that our motor will be able to crank more HP than the miata diff can handle.
The diff threshold seem to be in the upper 200's if you don't abuse it too much to lower 300's if you baby it.
The SR20DET seems to be capable of easy 300 ponies with light mods and 400 with some mild work.

Moti

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PostPosted: August 23, 2008, 11:48 pm 
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Definitely a good tip Moti, that's Why I chose the RX-7 Turbo diff instead, it came with LSD and is stronger than the Miata's :D , When I'm done building it the SR20DET I'm using should be in the 300-350 range, I'm going for more of a mild build on the engine to keep it as reliable as possible. :D


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