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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: October 1, 2008, 9:00 pm 
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The drivetrain was removed yesterday. The poor thing has no heart or hind legs.


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PostPosted: October 1, 2008, 9:02 pm 
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A well running stock Mazda rotary 12A. Runs like a champ. Great development motor for the chassis.


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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


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http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356


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PostPosted: October 1, 2008, 9:08 pm 
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The main reason I'm not getting much done. Me at SCCA Solo National Championships in Topeka Sept 16th finishing the West course. I am co-driving in G Stock. Likely next year also. I hope to have my Seven on track by season start 2010.


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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


Link to my build log:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356


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PostPosted: October 21, 2008, 2:40 pm 
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Hey Locofin,

Love your chassis !!!

Are you still planning to use the Pinto/MustangII spindles ?

What size of of disc are planing to use ?... Your right on the lack of need of big brakes... I know our current setup of 10.25 and Dynalite 4 pistons is a big No...No...with the Diamonds wheels...

Still not sure if I'll be running the locost at the Nationals next year but 2010 is for sure...

Cheers,

Fred


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PostPosted: October 22, 2008, 8:18 am 
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Yes. Standard OEM Mustang II spindles with Speedway upper adjustable control arms (race stock car parts). Lower arms will custom made.

Planning to start with stock sized brakes also. Just need good pads. Also planning 13x10 Diamond wheels with about 6" backspace. Should fit over stock brakes front and rear and clear the suspension parts.

I am working on the rear axle right now. Just ground off the old bracketry cleaned and painted it this past weekend. It is a stock Mazda GSL with a LSD and i think a 4:10 ratio. The design is a three link with a panhard bar, simple and well suited for what I need. Stock rear disc brakes will also be retained. Only using good brakes pads and braided steel lines along with a dual master cyl and Wilwood balance bar arrangement. I have the Wilwood pedal assy already. I just need to figure out what size master cylinders to use.

Looking forward to getting more stuff done since the solo season is over for this year.

...mark

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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


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http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356


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PostPosted: November 9, 2008, 10:11 pm 
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Put motor in the chassis for the first time. It is offset to the passenger side as much as possible. About 65 mm from the center line. Should help with balance.


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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


Link to my build log:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356


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PostPosted: November 9, 2008, 10:18 pm 
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More pics of engine. Note the motor is also set back about 20 cm also. Benefits of of building your own chassis.


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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


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http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356


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PostPosted: November 9, 2008, 10:20 pm 
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Hockey pucks for motor mounts. Very firm (and low-cost)


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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


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http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356


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PostPosted: November 10, 2008, 12:03 am 
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Be careful with the hockey pucks - I used them on a 914 back in the day, and they ended up splitting after a few track days. It may work for you though. I used them in a tranny mount on a tube frame rear with some plates cut to fit the pucks acting as big washers.

Hope that helps!
Randy


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PostPosted: November 10, 2008, 9:13 am 
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Randy,

Thanks for the heads up. If I have problems I will go with aluminium solid mounts. I did leave the stock tranny mount rubber isolator intact.

...mark

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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


Link to my build log:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356


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PostPosted: November 10, 2008, 9:53 am 
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What angle will the driveshaft be operated at relative to the pinion and output shaft? Are you using cv joints? The higher the expected shaft rpm, the less the angle needs to be using ujoints.


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PostPosted: November 10, 2008, 11:28 am 
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Horizontally = 3.179 deg
Vertically = less than 2 deg @ ride height

Fortunately the 1st get RX7 pinion is offset to the passenger side also minimizing the angle significantly.

Being a track only autocross car driven less than 60 mins on track for a season, u joints should last quite awhile.

Should be OK???

...mark

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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


Link to my build log:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356


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PostPosted: November 10, 2008, 2:23 pm 
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I suppose it will be okay for that. If the angles don't cancel during load transitions from deflection in the diff, trans, or engine mounts, the temporary vibration may be pretty bad.

Something else has just occured to me. Are you adding a torque link? With the engine mounts so close together and parallel, the engine and trans will have very little resistance to rocking from side to side without a strong torque link.


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PostPosted: November 10, 2008, 3:46 pm 
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A torque link would be easy enough to add. Thanks, good idea. Our start launches could get kind of hairy with sticky 10" wide race slicks.

Probably will beef up the u joints too. The drive shaft is custom made anyway.

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Building a whole car from scratch is a 1,000 little tasks, done 1 task at a time, while thinking 10 tasks ahead, then redoing it anyway.
South Bend Region SCCA D-Modifed Class Autocross & Track-Day/TT. Chevrolet 1.4 L Turbo Ecotec Power


Link to my build log:
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3356


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PostPosted: November 11, 2008, 7:33 pm 
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Nice Work Mark,

Offset motor makes a lot of sense for Solo 2 and no passengers.

Keep em comming.

Cheers,

Fred


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