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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 10:52 am 
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 10:57 am 
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 10:58 am 
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 2:38 pm 
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A little bit of paint and the thing will look pro 8) .
Any changes as far as the dynamics that you noticed?

Moti

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 7:33 pm 
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It doesn't fit me now, so my use has been very short distances. My wife says it used to get no more than 110 to 115 miles on 2 gallons with a combo of city/hwy. It now gets 125. She also said it seems faster, with quicker acceleration at highway speeds. I threw primer on it a couple months ago so it wouldn't be translucent. Everytime I considered working on it since then, she was riding it somewhere. Naturally, in it's current state, she was a little embarassed to ride it but now she loves the attention.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 3:30 am 
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Sweet! You're quite a craftsman!

-dave

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 4:14 pm 
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Thanks, but this stuff is easy with a good technique. I debated showing this as another "how to fiberglass" topic versus a build log.

I just made a 1:25 scale model of my 1995 tbird/ tvr chassis today, using a Revell 1992 tbird sc and a 2006 mustang GT for the 4.6L engine and T45 trans. I used a pack of minidowels for the tubes, hot glue, and a hot knife to cut out what I needed. It is crude but helpful.

I also bought oil based modeling clay to make a body on the chassis.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 6:02 pm 
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Are those model rocket engines for when you're finished using the model for referencing? :)


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 6:21 pm 
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Those are for my 63hp Aspire. They will be retros to slow me down so I don't burn. 8)

The tbird glass is too narrow at the top for my seating. I'll go with a split screen instead.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 9:34 am 
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A little clay work on the stick chassis, trying different styles. The spare is too low. Still undecided on the windshield type. I'm considering mounting the spare inside, with a dual hump turtle back with a concave area from the windshield top to the rear swaybar.

Since it is a oil based clay, it doesn't harden. This is basically the same type of clay used by auto mfgs. The seating position is so wide that the tbird windshield doesn't work due to the taper at the top. The seating is wide because the fuel tank is in the middle. I may change my mind on that. Seeing the whole picture is why a model is so beneficial.

If building a model seven, a small roll of aluminum roofing sheathing could be used to make realistic panels. Storm window panels (acrylic) could be used for the windows.

The grill area sticks up because the scale radiator cannot sit any lower due to the front subframe. I could make this a lot smoother, but I'm still making changes. I may post a few other styles too.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 3:53 pm 
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RE: "too wide for T-bird windshield"

That IS a heavy price to pay just to get the tank in the tunnel. IMHO you'd be much better off putting it above the pinion and/or wedge(s) behind seats even if it adds a few inches to the wheelbase.
.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 10:26 am 
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I agree. I would rather use curved glass. Also, with this design, I cannot narrow the car from the belt line up. Narrowing isn't so much a fuel tank issue as it is a footbox to exhaust manifold issue due to the 90" wheelbase of the model and the low seating position compared to the stock tbird.

I have completely started over on the chassis, narrowing the seating so the stock windshield will work. The model now has a 95" wheelbase, but the car will vary a bit, depending on the balance beam mockup.

The new body will have approx 3" fender flares and protruding rocker panels to cover side pipes/cats/mufflers.

Pics are titled 100wb but it is actually a 95" wheelbase. Note how the tbird windscreen is huge. Not much difference compared to the single piece flat glass, just the narrowing at the top.

The tailights are well within height requirements.

The hood is just high enough to clear the engine.

Fuel tank would be behind the seats, above the pinion.

The windscreen needs a trim all the way around to be to scale. On the model, it sits under the A pillars. The side windows need to extend up to the same height as the top of the windscreen.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 8:32 pm 
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A couple more versions.
The first is "cab forward" with the bottom of the windshield raised to the top of the engine while the top is in the same position for a sleeker appearance. The rest of the glass is still flat.

The second is a flat v-glass windshield again.

The further the top of the windshield is away from the driver, the harder it is to see traffic lights. They make prisms to place on the dash for that reason.

I like them both.

I'll start working on different front ends next.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 10:56 pm 
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Sorry, the design just doesn't work.
I think it's the proportions that my guess is that the windshield dictates, it looks either way too wide above the belt line or way too narrow under it.
The look right now reminds more of a sub-compact / super-mini than a sports car.
The spare tire hanging out there in the back doesn't help either, it's really not a sports car like design feature..

Sorry if it's a little harsh, but at least I'm honest :) .

Moti

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:18 am 
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You'd be better off to give up on the T-bird windshield and trade it for one from a smaller car... CRX, Focus... whatever. And get the tunnel down at least bellhousing width instead of cylinder head width.
.

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