LocostUSA.com

That's nice. Looks like an electric reverse too? Any more pictures, that's a tease?

What are the rear uprights from or are they custom?

Yes, the uprights are custom castings that I did for the run of cars back it the early 90's. Sorry I don't have a digital image of the fronts. Also shown is a billet rear upright for a vintage formula Ford (13" wheels with inboard disc brakes).

I see a second exhaust outlet and block off plate. Is there a turbo in the future?

Very nice build, Dave W

Yes, that was the intent. I spent 3500 bucks on a turbo kit with FI. After spending another $1000 on stainless headers I found out the turbo was bad and the FI didn't function either. So, there is a delete pipe and the original carbs. This was long before the engines came with stock FI. Now it would be much easier. I have a Busa engine but decided to save that for another car build.

DaveW - Do you get to Baker's Restaurant for the Sunday car shows?

Good to see some more michigan support in here!

That a piontek car? I remember buying a kitcar magazine for that car. Pretty sweet.

Hey Guys, Some Thanks for the good info. I have a question for you all.
I'm building a differential for my car, and am a bit confused. I have a VW differential, a Peloquin LSD from a '98 GTI, and do not understand how to seal the stub axles. The groove that runs in a spiral from the inside of the axle hole to the outside will , obviously leak oil, even grease to the cv flanges, and make a mess.
I'm amazed that the stub axle appears to run metal to metal, so this groove seems quite necessary to provide lube. Any ideas how to keep the lube in? Thanks

The quaife unit is only $1200. When you figure in it's limited slip/ATB, not a bad price at all.
http://www.autotech.com/quaife/Motorcyc ... lecars.htm

Anything missing from it, that would drive up the price?

Hell, one of their reverse boxes is 'only' $1600 as well.

guess it depends on your budget. I have a nearly running and rolling mid engine R1 powered car that i have built for under $1600 thus far. This includes steel, 07 R1 motor, wheels, tires, and everything else in my build log. $1200 for a diff wasnt in my budget.

on the outside of the plates that carry the differential and the bearings i have axle seals. Keeps differential lube between the axle and stub shaft but doesnt allow it to leak out. I just took my axle shaft to the parts store and searched until i found one that fit. now i just gotta get the plates CNC'd so that the seals will press in.

Take a closer look at all the pics and you will see the seals.

Is/was this car a "Sportek" and was about $50k 15 or so years back rep'd by a guy in Hawaii? The developer was named Piontek and worked in one of the Big Three in Detroit. Then for some reason the car became unavailable except to schools. It used a bike engine and was even reviewed by Car and Driver as I recall. How's my memory?

Thanks Blue Devil, I have been trying to come up with a good way to seal the stub axles, and just did not have a clean way to do it. It is hard to see in the pictures, but I can visualize what you are saying. Congrats on the cheap R-1 build!

http://www.funcar.com/sportech/

The $1200 Quaife still needs bearings/brackets, fiesta stub axles, and a sprocket that will bolt up to the ring gear flange

For what its worth, a Datsun 260Z has a R180 differential (although only 2 spider gears?) with bolt-in half shafts. I believe the 72-73 240z also had the same configuration but I'm not 100% on that.

I would consider it but I've already bought a Torsen diff from a RX-8 that I'm mating with '94 RX-7 half shafts and '95 RX-7 uprights. They fit perfect for the wheelbase I want and its a torsen diff so I'm happy.