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Hi all,

I'm still working on it. Got my first full day on the car yesterday since last summer. I have now mounted the nose and the radiator. I think I will visit the local wrecking yard (auto recycler ) today and look for some plumbing bits. I also want to mount the intake system next. Not sure how much of the emmisions stuff and baffles/resonators I need to keep, but I am running out of room!

Pictures to follow

here are some pictures of the most recent progress.

I had to grab a new fan as it looks like I sold my last one!!!

Nice to see you back in the garage! Coming along nicely, Adam!

I like your e-brake setup:



But I'm confused how you get the cable from the handle to the splitter. Does it interfere with the driveshaft? I guess not.

Also, that's going to put the brake cables at a nasty bend where they enter the cable housing. That will substantially increase wear on the cable. Maybe not a big deal given the duty cycles of an e-brake, but you might consider bending that bracket so the cables point straight at the brake handle.

Keep at it,
-dave

I haven't worked out the handle t splitter part yet ... I am trying to keep everything smooth as far as bends go though.

Thanks for the comments

after months of procrastinating, I finally sat down and made the brackets for the front wheel fenders.

to prevent any flaming etc (not that that is a problem here), I am aware I may have fitted the front fenders backwards, but I liked it better this way











Next on my list is to try and fit the air intake to the car. To many angles and round to square tubes

Looks like a good job on the fenders. Let us know how they do, if they vibrate etc. The fenders look right, are they really backwards?

I hate to be Mister Negative, but, the 1" x 1/8" wing stays have been proven to be insufficient for long term durability. The vertical will last about 200 miles and the horizontal will go twice that far. They break away from home when you have no tools to remove the remnants. (Speaking from experience here.)

After mine failed, I added a half-split 3/4" dia tube below the stays. That was better. My At-om has 1" dia. stays and they are much shorter than those on a 7.

Excellent, all I have to do is agree with Mr. Negative instead of behing him myself. Yes I agree, those aren't going to last. I'd at least back the vertical portions of the supports with tubing. There have been a number of threads on here lately about front fender stays departing company. Why not check out those threads and apply what they learned the hard way.

Adam, first, I like the look of the fenders turned around the "wrong" way.

Now, I have been thinking about the solution for front fenders since Jack's comments about loosing his on the cross country trip. Try this idea on for size... I think it will make minimalist stays/braces a realistic solution.

We have all seen the trucks, SUV's, etc with the gawdawful spinner rims on them. BUT, the fact is some of those rims must have really good bearings supporting the spinners. I've watched some of them still spinning at traffic lights without seeming to even slow down.

What about mounting a bearing of some kind to the outside of the wheel hub and having stays coming down to both sides of the wheel, like a bicycle fork, not just cantilevered off of one side? I think it would be minimal extra weight for the bearing, but would seriously reduce the fatigue of the inside stays, thereby allowing for lighter weight stays.

Just a thought, anyone else?

Mike Bynum

Ditto on the fender stays. Also, I wouldn't support it with only one bolt. Use the LBJ as well, or something else on the upright.

I've thought about a bike-fender stay as well, but not with a bearing. I've imagined tapping a hole in the spindle and bolting in there. It would make tire changes a pain, but would look clever. Or maybe stupid.

-dave "It's a fine line between clever and stupid" hempy

Thanks for the comments guys.

I guess I have been paying much attgention to this site, as I was unaware that fender stays had been falling apart left, right and centre. They do move around alot, and my plan was to attach another stip of steel, perpendiuclar to the stays, this would stiffen them up significantly, but I may go with the 1/2 tube instead.

Now I need to get this thread moved to my diary - don't know how I managed to get it here

My idea along those lines is to replace the castle nut with a longish nut (like a coupling nut) of the same thread (with through holes through the flats for the cotter key), and bolt a fender stay to the outer end on the nut...but Dave's idea sounds lighter.

Then again, the Westfield seems to have the cycle fender problem solved for Miata front wheels, and as I recall I saw a photo of it on Keith Tanner's site. It had a three point connection to the wheel carrier (I'm sure it did 'cause if it didn't I wouldn't have liked it) but I'm otherwise quite vague about it. Can anybody here point to it?

Jack, you should post a pic of Gene's fender brackets. Those are surprisingly strong.

Thought about the outboard bearing support on the scoot to work today. If you do that, better make durn sure it's a high quality bearing, and inspect it regularly. No big deal if your spinner locks up...quite different if all of a sudden your wheel is bolted to your upright!

-dave "can you say sacrificial link" hempy

Looking good Adam! Those look like my mark 1 fender stays. They are a tough piece to get right. If I did it over I would attach the fender at the side as well. They take more vibration and abuse than you might expect.