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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 6:28 pm 
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Location: Richmond Kentucky
OK, I'm about triangled out :( Does anyone see a weak point? or have I over done it again....
PooK
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 7:22 pm 
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Wow, you do amazing work and you do it fast.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 1:20 pm 
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Thanks :D , Took some time off to get another kitchen pass but I'm back at it and working out the suspension.
I'm taking the easy way on the uppers and going with the dirt oval swedges and collars (easy to mount, move, and adjust) besides if they can take a 2500lb race cars abuse surely they can hold my toy.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 4:14 pm 
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That chassis is amazing! Just remember the equation (seat)+(pedals)+(shifter) will always be over 500HP vroom factor :P Now on to the serious stuff... as far as your triangulation, it seems that you have it really well handled. If all else fails, weld on a bracket or two and make yourself some spare tubes with ball joints and you could bolt in bracing and even make them adjustable if you wanted.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 7:52 am 
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I wish my build table rolled better, I would get the wife to push me around while I check the "Vroom Factor" :D
But that is a good Idea about the bolt in braces, I think I'll use that for the bracing under the engine so I can raise the engine up into the bay.
PooK

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 11:05 pm 
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STILL waiting on the swedge tubes so I thought I would play with the front susp.
Kinda tough since these shocks use roller bearings instead of heim style ends.....but I think Ive got it.
PooK
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 7:19 pm 
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I had a fellow builder ask me about the Bell Cranks so I figured I would post it up with an explanation incase anyone else is interested.
They are from a Yamaha 2002 R1 but I belive many bikes used a similar set up. They have two roller bearings pressed in and use a 17mm hollow shaft to pivot on.
They are aluminum and while I'm no engineer and can't attest to their strength the bike came with a 500lb/in spring and could easily hold a rider, passenger, and the full weight of the bike... :?:
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I built a two pin setup out of 1 inch shaft, the female part welds into the tube (all the way through the tube) it was drilled a bored to take an 10mm allen bolt and the bottom was bored to accept the pivot pin, that way the bolt is only used in tension. (it only slides in to the first lip, that way it cant squeeze the B/C)
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The pin also uses a washer and teflon washer to slow the wear down.
The barrel is 1"id and is drilled to take another bolt should the tension allen ever loosen or fail. This barrel will get a tube (or plate?) that attaches to the frame also to put the B/C in double shear.
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Then I ground down the weld on top because that tube will be visible later. (this was FULLY welded before it was ground and ONLY the top got ground)
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PooK

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 3:46 am 
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You just made me invest in the stockmarket - tube mills :wink: Anyway, safe as as safe is.

How wide is your front track and length of wheelbase aprox?

Where did you source the speedway parts from, do you have a link please? Similar stuff can be got from 600 racing, "Legends" section - http://store.600racing.com/site/index.cfm

I don't look at the build log very often and was really surprised today to see how far you have advanced :cheers:


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 4:45 am 
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carguy123 wrote:
Relooking at your picture I see that you have no side to side bend as in an At-om. The managing of the side to side and the up and down bends all at the same time is what's been in my head.

I don't know why this has bothered me. I'm not building anything like it, but it has woken me up for the past 2 nights so you must be onto something good for it to stick in people's minds.


The side to side and up and down? - oh you most certainly forgot the twist along their length issue as well. You have to roll a few tubes then match them in pairs the best you can. Pook mentioned spring, at the final screw down I roll them back and forwards about 3 times each way, seems to help.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 6:44 pm 
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Ha! at the final screw down it was all I could do to muster enough strength to lift the tube..... :shock:
Hub face to hub face is 66" (haven't picked a wheel or an offset yet but will prob end in the 72"- ish range) and 107" is the wheel base, adjustable to 111".
PooK
the link is www.speedwaymotors.com but their on-line catalog is not near as good as the paper version.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 7:30 am 
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pook wrote:
Ha! at the final screw down it was all I could do to muster enough strength to lift the tube..... :shock:
.


Ha! E L E C T R I C M O T O R! :twisted:

(But then again I did roll 8 tubes today).

I have a real beast, get a picture up soon.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 12:40 am 
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I got my swedge tubes in today and played with the susp some more, I had to mount the front tabs vertical and upward to get the 3deg of anti dive I was after (although in such a lite weight vehicle I doubt it was necessary) oh well.
PooK
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So while I did change the mounts for the lower arms to vertical and move the shocks back to clear my feet better, all in all everything is still aligning per plan :D
next I'll tackle the rack and the bump steer problem Im sure Ill face :roll:
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Last edited by pook on Sun Aug 09, 2009 1:18 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 1:17 am 
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I like it :wink:

What tube are you using? Soooo shiny I need sunnglasses 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 1:23 am 
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Thanks!
The lower arms are DOM and have been cleaned (I hate that stuff they leave on DOM...nasty!!) The rest is just a mix of ERW and DOM that has been wiped with carb cleaner.
PooK

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 11:33 am 
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Thanks for the plan view - looks like you have toned the bodywork down a bit?

I really liked, errr hated the original concept, hope you stray a long way away from it (so I can use it, Ha!) :wink:

By the way, where did the other car end up? Any news etc on it? (sorry if i missed it).


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