I’ll add pics this evening.
I used eight, ¼ x 3.5” bolts on the sides to attach the rear wall to the truck channel after using clear silicone caulk in between. I drilled holes for drains in the outside step.
The window setting tape is clay-like, with very little adhesive quality to it. The process is to install a few screws through the inside clamp a few turns into the channel on the edge of the window to hold the clamp ring alignment, then drill the other positions through the holes in the clamp ring into the channel with a #27 bit.
The stacked 2x4 supports the tub edge. It is best to drill all the holes since the aluminum extrusions in the walls cannot be seen. Just running the drywall screws in with a #2 phillips in the drill will strip the hole in the wood if the screw hits aluminum.
I didn’t have the foresight to realize the outside channel would interfere with the best place to mount the water service panel. Mounting it above the channel would be hard to reach. I should have ordered a lower profile tank so I could fill it completely. I may need to move the panel above the rub rail and either plug the hole or use it for something else.
The water service panel didn’t come with any fasteners. I’m using #12 x ¾ self tapping stainless hex head bolts I picked up from Home Depot. #10 would have been best. The bolt heads interfere slightly with the door.
I took the aluminum grab handles off of the rear and put them below the ones near the side doors, reusing the countersunk stainless ¼-20 screws, bending the lower end for alignment with the flange.
It is a lot of work for a few windows but it made a huge difference inside. More white plastic will be added.
I’m using a standard office type suspended ceiling system, which is much lighter than plastic over plywood over 2x4 with easier access and better noise absorbing qualities. Stringers are sold in 12 foot sticks to be shortened, riveted to the sides of the truck and hung by wire through holes drilled in the existing ceiling stringers.
The 24x48” light is riveted to the existing ceiling for maximum head room.
The fuel filler for the generator is going to be cut from a 1980s ford ranger, which is very flat around the opening and on the correct side so wind won’t be opening the door. The original generator filler cap vent will be sealed. A sheetmetal cover will fit over the filler neck inside the truck.
I received the massive mud flaps (4.3L v6 intake in back ground for scale). I think I’ll use one for the grooming table top.
Goal for the left wall:
1: Cages are stacked, 38L x 30W x 30H with plastic slide out trays under an expanded and rolled flat ¼” thick stainless from Mcmaster or composite deck board in a U-groove at one end so they can’t pop out of position but can be lifted out for cleaning.
2: Ranger filler to generator below a short counter top and shelf, both with a high edge lip to keep things from falling off. The wall will have tool holders with a swinging dryer and a clip for retention when driving.
3: A rubber topped hydraulic table, 36 x 30 based on an HBF hydraulic table, directly over the wheel house.
4: A storage cabinet. Dims are 30L x 29.5W x 48”H over the truck diesel filler house, below the AC unit in the rear wall.
Goal for the right wall:
1: Upholstered Mini couch with a hinged top over 35 gallon fresh water tank.
2: Water service panel, 115VAC water pump, 5 gallon accumulator and T, Street water pressure T, tub drain trap and T to vent and drain through floor to waste water tank.
3: Tub, directly over wheel house with end walls 12” higher than tub deck for splash protection and clip rails on the wall. The tub is supported along the wall with 2x4 and screws through the flange, with a stand bolted to the wheelhouse supporting the center. There is a recess under the edge for foot clearance and gallon bottle storage and a retaining rail to keep it in place.
4: Faucet, with pump, 3-way soap bypass valve, 4-way soap selector valve, and 4 gallon bottles of soap with siphon hoses.
Soap metering systems are standard, hydrosurge being one brand name. A soap metering system costs $500-1,000. I considered using a $20 mixing venturi but it won’t work properly with backpressure. A proportioning pump is a much more precise method, driven by the material being metered. Soda fountains use proportioning pumps but they are usually driven by co2 or compressed air. I found a Shurflo Proportioning pump that has a 4:1 ratio and is water driven for about $140 new. It even comes with a 3 way valve for bypassing the soda syrup/soap. Part number 94-260-03.
http://www.superiorsupplyonline.com/shu ... pumps.html
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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742Simple Spring select
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360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12
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