LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently March 28, 2024, 9:58 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 32 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 27, 2008, 8:51 pm 
Offline
The voice of reason
User avatar

Joined: January 10, 2008, 4:47 pm
Posts: 7652
Location: Massachusetts
That's nice. Looks like an electric reverse too? Any more pictures, that's a tease?

What are the rear uprights from or are they custom?

_________________
Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 27, 2008, 10:00 pm 
Offline

Joined: December 27, 2008, 8:06 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Brighton, MI
Yes, the uprights are custom castings that I did for the run of cars back it the early 90's. Sorry I don't have a digital image of the fronts. Also shown is a billet rear upright for a vintage formula Ford (13" wheels with inboard disc brakes).


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Exhaust
PostPosted: December 27, 2008, 10:01 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
Posts: 1879
Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
I see a second exhaust outlet and block off plate. Is there a turbo in the future?

Very nice build, Dave W


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Turbo GSXR1100
PostPosted: December 27, 2008, 10:11 pm 
Offline

Joined: December 27, 2008, 8:06 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Brighton, MI
Yes, that was the intent. I spent 3500 bucks on a turbo kit with FI. After spending another $1000 on stainless headers I found out the turbo was bad and the FI didn't function either. So, there is a delete pipe and the original carbs. This was long before the engines came with stock FI. Now it would be much easier. I have a Busa engine but decided to save that for another car build.

DaveW - Do you get to Baker's Restaurant for the Sunday car shows?


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 28, 2008, 4:45 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: November 20, 2008, 10:20 am
Posts: 1014
Location: Subs of Detroit, MI
Good to see some more michigan support in here!

_________________
2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970
Quote:
On the cool points scale you rank just above Isaac Newton and just under Batman.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: April 5, 2009, 5:27 am 
Offline

Joined: May 15, 2007, 1:08 am
Posts: 65
Location: VA
That a piontek car? I remember buying a kitcar magazine for that car. Pretty sweet.

_________________
69 4age 20v powered MG Midget


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 10, 2009, 10:45 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 7, 2009, 5:20 pm
Posts: 4
Hey Guys, Some Thanks for the good info. I have a question for you all.
I'm building a differential for my car, and am a bit confused. I have a VW differential, a Peloquin LSD from a '98 GTI, and do not understand how to seal the stub axles. The groove that runs in a spiral from the inside of the axle hole to the outside will , obviously leak oil, even grease to the cv flanges, and make a mess.
I'm amazed that the stub axle appears to run metal to metal, so this groove seems quite necessary to provide lube. Any ideas how to keep the lube in? Thanks


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 13, 2009, 4:54 am 
Offline

Joined: February 9, 2008, 1:05 am
Posts: 678
Location: San Antonio
The quaife unit is only $1200. When you figure in it's limited slip/ATB, not a bad price at all.
http://www.autotech.com/quaife/Motorcyc ... lecars.htm

Anything missing from it, that would drive up the price?

Hell, one of their reverse boxes is 'only' $1600 as well.

_________________
JSullivan


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 14, 2009, 2:37 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: November 20, 2008, 10:20 am
Posts: 1014
Location: Subs of Detroit, MI
JSullivan wrote:
The quaife unit is only $1200. When you figure in it's limited slip/ATB, not a bad price at all.
http://www.autotech.com/quaife/Motorcyc ... lecars.htm

Anything missing from it, that would drive up the price?

Hell, one of their reverse boxes is 'only' $1600 as well.


guess it depends on your budget. I have a nearly running and rolling mid engine R1 powered car that i have built for under $1600 thus far. This includes steel, 07 R1 motor, wheels, tires, and everything else in my build log. $1200 for a diff wasnt in my budget.

_________________
2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970
Quote:
On the cool points scale you rank just above Isaac Newton and just under Batman.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 14, 2009, 2:44 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: November 20, 2008, 10:20 am
Posts: 1014
Location: Subs of Detroit, MI
Houseoffubar wrote:
Hey Guys, Some Thanks for the good info. I have a question for you all.
I'm building a differential for my car, and am a bit confused. I have a VW differential, a Peloquin LSD from a '98 GTI, and do not understand how to seal the stub axles. The groove that runs in a spiral from the inside of the axle hole to the outside will , obviously leak oil, even grease to the cv flanges, and make a mess.
I'm amazed that the stub axle appears to run metal to metal, so this groove seems quite necessary to provide lube. Any ideas how to keep the lube in? Thanks


on the outside of the plates that carry the differential and the bearings i have axle seals. Keeps differential lube between the axle and stub shaft but doesnt allow it to leak out. I just took my axle shaft to the parts store and searched until i found one that fit. now i just gotta get the plates CNC'd so that the seals will press in.

Take a closer look at all the pics and you will see the seals.

_________________
2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970
Quote:
On the cool points scale you rank just above Isaac Newton and just under Batman.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: September 14, 2009, 4:06 pm 
Offline
Mid-Engined Maniac

Joined: April 23, 2006, 8:26 pm
Posts: 6410
Location: SoCal
Funcar wrote:
Yes, the uprights are custom castings that I did for the run of cars back it the early 90's. Sorry I don't have a digital image of the fronts. Also shown is a billet rear upright for a vintage formula Ford (13" wheels with inboard disc brakes).

Is/was this car a "Sportek" and was about $50k 15 or so years back rep'd by a guy in Hawaii? The developer was named Piontek and worked in one of the Big Three in Detroit. Then for some reason the car became unavailable except to schools. It used a bike engine and was even reviewed by Car and Driver as I recall. How's my memory?

Image

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 14, 2009, 9:25 pm 
Offline

Joined: September 7, 2009, 5:20 pm
Posts: 4
Thanks Blue Devil, I have been trying to come up with a good way to seal the stub axles, and just did not have a clean way to do it. It is hard to see in the pictures, but I can visualize what you are saying. Congrats on the cheap R-1 build! :cheers:


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 14, 2009, 9:58 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: May 8, 2007, 9:50 am
Posts: 602
Location: Minnesota
http://www.funcar.com/sportech/

The $1200 Quaife still needs bearings/brackets, fiesta stub axles, and a sprocket that will bolt up to the ring gear flange


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 15, 2009, 12:45 am 
Offline

Joined: August 22, 2009, 2:16 pm
Posts: 36
blue devil wrote:
- 1 differential, preforably LSD with bolt on style Half shafts and CV's
(still trying to find a nice US one to use... please throw options out!)

For what its worth, a Datsun 260Z has a R180 differential (although only 2 spider gears?) with bolt-in half shafts. I believe the 72-73 240z also had the same configuration but I'm not 100% on that.

_________________
You can build your car:
1. Fast
2. Cheap
3. Reliable
Pick any two.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 15, 2009, 1:17 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: November 20, 2008, 10:20 am
Posts: 1014
Location: Subs of Detroit, MI
I would consider it but I've already bought a Torsen diff from a RX-8 that I'm mating with '94 RX-7 half shafts and '95 RX-7 uprights. They fit perfect for the wheelbase I want and its a torsen diff so I'm happy.

_________________
2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970
Quote:
On the cool points scale you rank just above Isaac Newton and just under Batman.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 32 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 8 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
POWERED_BY