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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: September 30, 2009, 12:42 pm 
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Location: Houston TX
bought aluminum for floor and body panels -- how far a part should the 1/8 inch pop rivets be spaced? I would also like to use some sort of adhesive to bond the panels to the frame, any ideas?

thanks

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PostPosted: September 30, 2009, 4:19 pm 
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Your asking for the pitch, which is the distance between rivets in a row, center to center.

1" center to center is fine.

As the drill goes through, burrs develop on the opposite side of the sheet.

All the holes need to be drilled then deburred. Thats why cleco's are necessary. Silicone caulk can be applied. There is no need to bond the panels to the chassis.

If you silicone first, clamp, drill and pop as you go, your results may vary.

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PostPosted: October 6, 2009, 10:58 am 
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cut and mounted floors this weekend, also started hard lines in tunnel.

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PostPosted: October 7, 2009, 5:25 pm 
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Sounds like you're making good progress. What material are you using for the floor? If it's aluminum, how are you fastening it to the car?


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PostPosted: October 7, 2009, 5:32 pm 
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1/8 5052 Aluminium -- it looks to be overkill -- but it is to late now -- I screwed it on so I can remove it after I test the car and before powder coating the frame

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PostPosted: October 30, 2009, 5:03 pm 
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tried building gas tank this weekend -- it had too many leaks so I had to hire a pro to make one. Started on the wiring -- this should be fun, not

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PostPosted: October 30, 2009, 6:30 pm 
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Use gas tank sealer. That's what the custom bike builders do. I used it too.


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PostPosted: November 3, 2009, 10:43 am 
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JonW wrote:
Use gas tank sealer. That's what the custom bike builders do. I used it too.


it looked like crap too -- I thought of sealer -- I plan on using sealer since the tank is going to be steel

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PostPosted: November 3, 2009, 10:44 am 
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started the wiring this weekend -- what a pain :)

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PostPosted: November 3, 2009, 10:59 am 
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I've used a product called "Kreem" (or maybe Kream?) to seal a motorcycle tank that was rusty inside. Worked great. Get it a bike shop, if they still make it.

-dave

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PostPosted: November 3, 2009, 11:32 am 
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If you're going to use a sealer, make sure it's compatible with the various concentrations of alcohol in gasoline. Some aren't.
Go ahead and use whatever cleaner/prep stuff they recommend. You don't want it peeling.


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PostPosted: November 18, 2009, 12:47 pm 
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I am tring to find some small non LED fron turn signal/parking light -- does anyone have any ideas

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PostPosted: November 18, 2009, 2:28 pm 
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There are hundreds of cheap motorcycle indicators on eBay.

If you are looking for 'classic' lights, about all I can think of are Triumph and other British parts.

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PostPosted: December 1, 2009, 3:23 pm 
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I finished enough of the wiring this weekend that I was able to run the engine for the first time since I removed it from the donor (over 2 years) ago. The gas tank is done. I have found all the lights and mounted most. I hope for a test drive by x-mas.

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PostPosted: December 11, 2009, 1:11 pm 
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finished mounting all the lights and 95% done with the wiring -- Hempy is right the wiring can lose over half it's weight -- I hope to post some pics if I can ever remember to take the camara to the shop.

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