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Jon:

As a mechanic, and even more important to you, a Ford Mechanic, I would check to make sure that you are not just getting soot mixed with water vapor coming out of the exhaust.
The chances of oil getting that far without a obvious engine running issue is pretty low. Your compression numbers are good for any engine, never mind one that has 170k miles on it.

There are several possibilities, if there is a lot of oil in the exhaust.
One, Check the pcv system. Make sure that the valve is in place (the back of the intake), make sure that the screen is clear and not plugged (under the valve, and I just remove the screen crap), check for excess oil in the intake tract (a good sign of a plugged pcv system), make sure that the vent line from the filler neck or valve cover is not running downhill towards the intake (MAF?) air cleaner.

If all that checks out, I would get a couple of heat cycles in the engine, watch the exhaust during hot soak restart (blue smoke is oil, white smoke is water vapor or coolant).
If you are getting blue smoke, but it goes away quickly, you probably have hardened exhaust valve seals.
If you are getting white smoke, smell it, coolant smells sickly sweet.
If it has no smell, it is water vapor, or you have no coolant in the engine.
If it is water vapor, that is perfectly normal on a cold start.

We did have a production run problem with some of the early 5.0's. The engine plant was installing the pistons with the ring gaps lined up. But that result was excessive oil comsumption (1 quart / 300 miles).

That is some really good information. Thanks for taking the time to explain this to me. I will check the PCV valve. And, next time I run the engine, I will try to evaluate what kind of smoke I have.

_________________
"The decision to build a car is not one reached through a rational mindset. It is a decision that is made because we have to do it! It makes no sense, but neither does love, children and taxes" -Sam Buchanan

My Build Log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3054

I'm finally done school for the year! I can finally get back to working on the car! School has been sucking up all my time over the past month, and I haven't made any progress on the Locost through all of April. Yesterday was the first day back out to the garage, and I got a lot of work done! Brakes are installed, bleed and the parking brake cables are routed and installed to the calipers. I need to shorten the cables to attach them to the parking brake handle. I will have to call up my airplane mechanic friend to help me do that.

I'm not sure if I've already mentioned this in the build log already, but I've bought a pair of 4-point harnesses. Yesterday, I made new mounting points for those harnesses.

Finally, I bought a seat slider (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RCI-7451A/). I didn't really need one, but I bought one anyways, in hopes that I could make the car that much more comfortable. Before installing these sliders, I needed to narrow the driver's seat. The seat was too wide (fit tight in the car), so I needed to narrow the seat, so that it could freely slide. That consumed a huge amount of time. I had to cut it down the middle, and tack weld the entire thing back together. An additional reinforcing strip was also added. After getting the seat narrowed, I aligned the bolt holes for the sliders and mounted them. Right now, paint is drying on all the parts (seat brackets, seats, harness mounts, etc)

_________________
"The decision to build a car is not one reached through a rational mindset. It is a decision that is made because we have to do it! It makes no sense, but neither does love, children and taxes" -Sam Buchanan

My Build Log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3054

Hi Jon

Been watching your IRS conversion. Looking nice. Are you going to redrill your hubs for the 5x4.5 pattern or run an adapter? If you are interested I have some cobra hubs you can have cheap(if I can find them). I ended up not using them when I upgraded the axles. Do you have a VIN plate on your car?

Phil

You mean the front wheel hubs? I've already changed the rears to the 4-bolt mustang pattern. I did this so that I could use my 2 sets of rims with the car. (One set for track, and one for the street). This being said, I would've preferred to change the fronts to the 5 bolt, due to the increase in rim selection.
Yes, I have a VIN plate on my car. I just stamped the VIN number into a piece of aluminum, and riveted to the car, close to the windshield, to that no one can drill out the rivets without removing the windshield. The below picture isn't the best to show the plate, but it is on the far right of the picture, just behind the windshield frame:







I guess I should give an update:

Paint on the rear is done (finally!).

The driver's seat has sliders on them now:
(before paint)


(After Paint)


As you can see in the above pictures, there is weld marks on the centerline of the seat. I needed to narrow the seat (including all upholstery) in order for the seat to slide freely within the cockpit. I also needed to add new trim around the seats, because it was destroyed in the seat-modification precess. Similar to last time, I used clear tubing, cut a slit in the tubing, pushed the tubing onto the edge of the metal, them glued them on. (see below pic). Later, the tubing is painted black, to match the seat.


I bought a pair of 4-point harnesses, which needed new mounting point. Long story short, I needed mounting points for my old 2-point harness as well, so I needed to make new tabs that would allow both to be securely mounted. This was a lot more challenging than you might think:


New seat belt installed:




Wheels go back on tomorrow, and I hope to start doing the rear lighting Saturday.

_________________
"The decision to build a car is not one reached through a rational mindset. It is a decision that is made because we have to do it! It makes no sense, but neither does love, children and taxes" -Sam Buchanan

My Build Log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3054

Update time!

I've been working very hard over the past 3 weeks to finish my car, and get it back on the road. I also had to make a new convertible top for the car. All this was done in time for the May long weekend (Canadian holiday). This past weekend (the long weekend), I drove it up to my grandparents cottage (600km each way). I had a blast driving it there! The weather was perfect, and I didn't get a drop of drain, and the car performed great!

A couple of pictures after arriving at the cottage: (Note: the car is dirty, so these aren't meant to be glamor shots)






I may take some better shots of the car when I wash it next.

For now, the sun is shinning, its 30C outside (86F), and I need to take my girlfriend out in the Locost to get some ice cream

_________________
"The decision to build a car is not one reached through a rational mindset. It is a decision that is made because we have to do it! It makes no sense, but neither does love, children and taxes" -Sam Buchanan

My Build Log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3054

Still looks great! Nice job.

So how does the IRS compare to the solid rear axle? Notice any major differences yet?

_________________
He is a wise man who does not grieve for the things which he has not, but rejoices for those which he has.

Yo, Jon-
Great job on the IRS 'refitting" of the car. She looks great! As for glamor shots, I'd rather see the car being used and enjoyed than posing all waxed and polished. Drivin' is what they're for, after all!!!

If you remember, would you mind posting the lengths of your upper and lower control arms for the IRS? I looked thru your log and didn't see the numbers. I'd like some reference points for geometry of the rear so's I can start some calculatiosn for my car's IRS. (Plain English- I'm stealing your ideas!)

Thanks and Great Job on the car!
Take Care-
JD Kemp

_________________
JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Thanks for the complements!



I notice a big difference in the drivability of the car on the streets. The old suspension was unbearable, as a daily driver with a 30min commute each way. The roads are pretty bad where I live. Softer springs wasn't the solution, so that is why I needed to go with an IRS, to lower the unsprung weight. The result? I think it is great! It is a massive improvement in the comfort of the car on the streets. Its not perfect, but I can drive with comfort now. I haven't had a chance to take it to the track with the new suspension, so I don't know if it will be any better in the corners yet.

My advice for those starting out regarding IRS (independent rear suspension) Vs. Solid Axle: If you want simplicity, use a solid axle rear end. It is much easier to design, build, and tune. In addition to that, it is typically cheaper to do (from my experience), due to the reduced number of components required. If you will be driving your car a lot, you are willing to sit down and design a rear suspension, and you are willing to put more time into building, go with a IRS suspension. If done right, your car will ride much smoother, due to a reduced unsprung weight, and it can be tuned to a much greater extent. I could go on about the good and bad for both, but thats for another topic.



Me too!!



I did post a picture is a couple of pages ago, but I will re-post it for your convenience:



The zero's are on the center-line of the car, and the ground.

Top arm is about 13" Long, bottom arm is 17.75". I hope that helps. If not, let me know.



Anyone in southern Ontario is welcome to come see my car and/or go for a drive if you want. Just PM me!

_________________
"The decision to build a car is not one reached through a rational mindset. It is a decision that is made because we have to do it! It makes no sense, but neither does love, children and taxes" -Sam Buchanan

My Build Log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3054

Wow, Jon, Thank You! That's way more than I deserved! But thanks for posting. I've been toying with some design numbers, but they are a good bit shorter than yours, more like my front control arms (UCA@9 and LCA @13.25). I'll put yours into my trusty "string computer" (which actually uses foam board "A Arms" and not string) and see how they work.

Again, Jon, thank you!

JDK

_________________
JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Great Build!
We are attempting to use the same rear end and simular setup as you have done. Would you mind telling me what this length is?

Hope this helps:

This is a side view, looking at the drivers side. The red line represents the rear frame, which I've connected the new IRS to.

_________________
"The decision to build a car is not one reached through a rational mindset. It is a decision that is made because we have to do it! It makes no sense, but neither does love, children and taxes" -Sam Buchanan

My Build Log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3054

Time for an update!


I've been driving my Locost as a daily driver all summer. Its been great! Except when it rains. I really don't like it when it rains.


Anyways, I've past the 10,000km mark on the odometer! Wahoo!

The only problem I've had with the car this year is with the starter. By the time the summer heat came in, my old starter (from a 1983 engine) could never turn the engine over when the car was warmed up. A new starter was $160, and a rebuilt one was $120. After looking around, I found this:


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-9603/

For a little more money, I bought this gear reduced starter, which is way better than any other OEM starter. The face plate is clockable, which means that the orientation of the starter can change, to clear headers, frame rails etc. This was very useful for me, to clear my frame. It is also unaffected by heat soak (Not being able to start when the engine is hot). Its got a massive amount of torque, more than I need. Finally, its really quiet by comparison to my old one. Very happy with it.


A couple of weeks ago, I drove the Locost up to the cottage again. (1200km round trip). While there, I actually used it to tow some stuff. I launched a sailboat into the water, and brought it out of the water with the Locost. I also hauled some wood:


This past week, I've enclosed the trunk of my car. I've been meaning to do it for a while, I just never got around to it. I covered the inside frame and gas tank with plywood, and covered the plywood with outdoor carpet. The carpet is attached with Velcro for easy removal. All critical bolts (suspension mostly) are accessible through holes in the plywood, as seen in the picture below. The plywood itself is very easy to take out as well. This week, I will be looking into some fire retardant paint for the wood.





For those who are wondering about the difference in look between my old rear end (Solid axle), and the newer, bigger, rear end (IRS), here are two pictures to compare:

Old:


New:



I'll finish this post with the most up to date picture of my car:

_________________
"The decision to build a car is not one reached through a rational mindset. It is a decision that is made because we have to do it! It makes no sense, but neither does love, children and taxes" -Sam Buchanan

My Build Log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3054

I've been thinkin about my front fenders lately and want to do something similar to you, kind of a 1/2 fender just from the top of the tire to the back. One problem I saw with that though is the air getting under the fender and the force that would be on it at highway speed. Have you had any trouble because of that?