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proximacentuari wrote:Gaaah...I can't believe this is so difficult:

Finding caps to weld on to the end of several of my chassis tubes.
Mcmaster Carr won't sell me anything thinner than a 1/2" disc. Help, locosters, where can a find 1.5", 2", 2.5" diameter thin steel discs for covering tube.

I'm sure you'll find something easier and better, but if not, I can make some disks for you, whatever size you want. Sounds like a project easy enough for me! Won't cost you anything, if you're not in a hurry.

How about some washers from the hardware store? Weld the hole shut, like Chet said.


Let me know,
-dave

Mcmaster, PN 9275K64, $1.32 each, pg 3666.

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Just grab a strip of 2" wide 16ga, cut off 1.5, 2, and 2.5" lengths, tack it to a scrap piece of the desired diameter tubing, vaporize the overhang on a bench grinder, grind off the tacks, and voila... cheap disc. Repeat. Repeat.

New Pictures:

I've decided on a steering ratio (2.5-3) I'll be buying an Appleton/Sweet/Woodward Steering rack.

Also, I'll be buying a 12spline steering wheel quick release from Speedway motors.

Heim joints will be Aurora, all critical bolts will be 5/8-18 socket caps.

I've decided to buy a K20a3 swap instead of buying a wrecked car...here in utah the legal system is specifically set up to stop someone from buying a wrecked car and disassembling it. This saves around $500-1000, but this money will probably be made up in extraneous parts.

Has anyone here tried this route (not buying a donor car, but all the parts separately?)

Also, is it easy to convert Japanese brake fittings to the American system?

Is there anyone extraordinarily charitable on LocostUSA who has an access pass/licensing to buy wrecked cars and who'd be willing to help me buy a wrecked RSX or Civic SI?

proximacentuari wrote:Has anyone here tried this route (not buying a donor car, but all the parts separately?)

I did that, though I'm not any farther along on my project than you are, so I can't exactly say it was a good or bad desicion! I'd say as long as you had some patience, and don't buy anything from the dealership (keep an eye on ebay) you'll be FINE!

proximacentuari wrote:Also, is it easy to convert Japanese brake fittings to the American system?

Summit and speedway sell adaptors for metric to AN. Japanese cars are either 10mm-1.25 or 10mm-1.00 thread (from what I've read).

Finding custom length braided brake line (flexible) in metric or SAE is a little tricky. There are places that will make them for you, but I havn't found any.

My plan (for my car with metric fittings) is:
10mm-1.25/10mm-1.00 male to AN male fitting
to 18" AN braided hose
to AN3 male to 3/8"-24 IFF (inverted flare female) adaptor
to 3/16" hard brake line (3/8" IFF are the bits that slide onto the brake line before you do the flaring)

then from the hard line to the metric IFF to the master cylinder, etc.



You could just as easily do 10mm-1.25 to AN to 3/8"-24 IFF and keep using american 3/8" IFF from there...


http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/6466,13_AN-to-Male-Metric-Adapter.html
summit has them a little cheapter...


http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/999,13_Complete-Steel-Brake-Line-Kits-Includes-Braided-Hose.html
This is what I am getting for my stuff. It also includes 1/8" NPT fittings for things like proportioning valves.

Hey, look at that, another nut-case in Utah! Welcome to the forum. There are a few salt heads around here.

I too looked into salvage vehicles and found the laws prohibitive. The biggest salvage dealer in town is IAA

https://www.iaai-bid.com/aucbranchinfo.aspx?branch=342

I don't remember all the details, but I think you can surf the inventory on the web for free, and browse the lot for a small fee. But, you can't purchase one unless you are an authorized dismantler.
-I found two ways around it:

1) Get a license - seems like it was a couple hoops and around $300.

2) I was referred to a dismantler who would possibly do my bidding for me. Here is a snip from the reply I got from IAA.





Good morning,

We are open to the public however, only a Utah State Licensed Salvage Buyer may bid on “Salvage” vehicles.

I know of a person who might be willing to bid for you…Bob’s Body Works (801)392-8325

Thank you for your interest in IAA.

Marie Paddock-Strasburg

Branch Manager
IAA - Salt Lake City
(801) 399-2818 phone
(801) 393-2325 fax

I never called Bob because I found a running, registered, roadworthy victim.
Good luck though!

Most local auto parts stores will sell the adapter to go from metric to SAE. It's an 8" length of hard line with SAE male on one end and Metric female on the other, or vice versa. They cost about $5. (at least the one at NAPA does)

I had custom lines made by Alex at:

paragonperformance.com
Alex
Paragon Performance
800-270-0333

I believe he can make up anything you want or just supply you with adapters & fittings. I found the price reasonable and he was great to deal with. Mine were all custom (long) length, fittings, etc. and it worked out to about $100 for the set of four. Actually less than I can buy a regular length SS set for my car.

James

Update: 3/8/08

Although I haven't built anything over the last several weeks, I've been doing lots and lots of research and buying.

I now have:
-a 90% completed frame. Needs motor mounts, mounting tabs, etc.
-An engine. I paid 1700+shipping for a K20a3 engine with 160 HP, tranny, shifter, ecu, and an extra knuckle. Engine looks great, has 30,000 miles.
-Immobilizer and key
-Three front knuckles and three brakes. However, one of the knuckles has 5 lugs. This will need to be changed to 4 lug.

I splurged yesterday on the internet. Shopping at McMaster Carr, Pitstopusa, and Speedway Motors resulted in:

Aurora heim joints, threaded tube ends, alloy seat belt bolts, The bronze bushings for the wishbones, 50 or so stainless bolts. I chose the stainless 1/4-20 cap hex screw for the universal screw with which I will attach everything. I also bought a Howe steering column clamp, a steering column, a rim-style hub disconnect, cone spacers, and some strange-looking donuts with a taper hole. I hope that the Honda ball joint taper will fit in this.

I also found an engine lift at HF. I was going to use a ladder and a hoist, but my dad didn't want me to break his ladder. :p

I test fit the engine - remember that I built the frame off pictures on the internet - and it fits with about 2-3 mm to spare. Scary. The low clearance means that soft engine mounts are out of the question. The point where the engine would hit is on the water pump pulley. I had to remove the AC compressor. I'll also end up removing the PS pump. However, I'll need to find a different length serpentine belt.

Anyone here know where I can get custom/different sized serpentine belts?

CAD work continues on the knuckle. I should be able to model the suspension on Solidworks within the next two weeks.

I sent an email to Tilton about the size of the master cylinders. Since i'm using the stock RSX brakes, they suggested that I use a 1" front and a 1 - 1/4 rear. Since the 1-1/4 isn't available, i'll end up using 1 1/8.

I'll post some pictures soon.

proximacentuari wrote:Anyone here know where I can get custom/different sized serpentine belts?

I sent an email to Tilton about the size of the master cylinders. Since i'm using the stock RSX brakes, they suggested that I use a 1" front and a 1 - 1/4 rear. Since the 1-1/4 isn't available, i'll end up using 1 1/8.

I'll post some pictures soon.

K6 means 6 ribs. The rest of the number is in inches. If the last number is a 5, that means an extra 1/2 inch.

Your local parts store should have a belt guage. Flat belts do not stretch like v belts do, but simply wrapping a tape measure around the pulleys will result in a suprising amount of error.

I suggest you cut the old belt to the exact length that will pull the spring-loaded tensioner to the tighter side of the indicator (probably an arrow on the arm, pointing to a range on the base). Have the parts place measure the cut belt, then buy a belt that is an inch shorter and one that is an inch longer in addition to what the parts store person says is the correct size. Then, having narrowed in on the solution, you can take all three back and buy the right one.

If you are using the same brake rotors and calipers front and rear, why would you need a bigger bore master for the rear?

If you are using the same brake rotors and calipers front and rear, why would you need a bigger bore master for the rear?

In theory, I don't want as much force on the rear. Although the balance bar is good for small adjustments, and I have a mid-engined design, a greater majority will still be on the front wheels. Also, I have a certain degree of trust in the Tilton guy. At any rate, i'll be able to adjust the final proportion with the balance bar.

Thanks for the notation for the belts. My worry isn't that I can find the perfect size but that I can't find a belt that's three feet shorter than the stock Honda belt.

I just checked on mcmaster carr...I love those guys...it looks I can order a ribbed belt in any size.

I bought a proportioning valve from Jegs for $35ish (IIRC) that can reduce the braking force up to 60%. (again IIRC) Plumb one of those in to your rear brake line and don't sweat it.

I've been doing cad work, measuring the stock knuckles.

Attached is a picture of the knuckle and the piece I'll add to it. The piece I'll be making is shown in purple. The round nub on the purple piece won't be there.

This piece will allow me to connect the tie rods and the top ball joint.

Any thoughts/suggestions?

It looks like the Factory Five adapter, which is okay if thats where you want the upper joint. You could place it lower and deeper into the wheel by offsetting the joint and rotating the upright a few degrees, as long as it is still within the range of the lower joint. You may want to twist the lca at the lower joint cup to keep the lower joint from binding.