Pete's Porsche/VW Based Build
Moderators: a.moore, JackMcCornack
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Pete Gossett
Hit a small milestone yesterday - finished the frame!
Here's a closeup of how I ended up building the rear. It's an odd combination of some of Rorty's ideas & a bit of my own.
I put the frame on the scales - 125lbs. Has anyone else weighed theirs?
I started fabbing the mounts for the transaxel. It's a really tight fit where the top of the trans passes under the bulkhead - unfortunately, it won't slide into place w/the torque-tube attatched, so I'm going to need to do some *clearancing* here.
The centerline of the axels is about 1" further back than I want the wheels, so the axels will have a very slight slant forward, it should be slight enough to not affect their longevity though. It looks like the fuel tank is either going to need to go above the trans, or else I might need to do 2-separate saddle tanks behind either rear wheel opening.
Here's how I have the trans mounted so far. I'm planning on a couple mounts coming out horizontally from where the OEM rubber mounts are attached, but I'll need to make the entire bracket removable in order to get the trans out. So for now, I just have 2-front & 1-rear mount, which I think is enough to hold it securely, but I'd feel better having 2-more mounting points.
One last pic. This is an odd angle, but I wanted to show the arrangement of the tubes, plus show what open space I have to work with.

Here's a closeup of how I ended up building the rear. It's an odd combination of some of Rorty's ideas & a bit of my own.
I put the frame on the scales - 125lbs. Has anyone else weighed theirs?
I started fabbing the mounts for the transaxel. It's a really tight fit where the top of the trans passes under the bulkhead - unfortunately, it won't slide into place w/the torque-tube attatched, so I'm going to need to do some *clearancing* here.
The centerline of the axels is about 1" further back than I want the wheels, so the axels will have a very slight slant forward, it should be slight enough to not affect their longevity though. It looks like the fuel tank is either going to need to go above the trans, or else I might need to do 2-separate saddle tanks behind either rear wheel opening.
Here's how I have the trans mounted so far. I'm planning on a couple mounts coming out horizontally from where the OEM rubber mounts are attached, but I'll need to make the entire bracket removable in order to get the trans out. So for now, I just have 2-front & 1-rear mount, which I think is enough to hold it securely, but I'd feel better having 2-more mounting points.
One last pic. This is an odd angle, but I wanted to show the arrangement of the tubes, plus show what open space I have to work with.

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Andy Bro
- Posts: 294
- Joined: March 10, 2006, 12:48 am
- Building: S2 Replica
- Location: CT
Here's the link to my VW stuff.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2665331
The stuff I have that will be of interest to you:
8v ECU, ignition module, and knock sensor control unit. I thought I threw them out, but I didn't.
16v Scirocco Wiring harness. This will have the wires for having the airbox to the right of the engine as it would be in a VW, so that would put it on your firewall/shelf there.
8v Distributor w/hall sender.
8v CIS-E fuel distributor/air box w/air flow plate pot. and differential pressure regulator.
8v Timing belt cover.
What of that would you need, then we could work out a price, don't worry about my listed prices too much.
Oh, is there anything else you would need? I know I have more stuff lying around, or in the pictures but I didn't list.
-Andy
PS- Congrats on finishing the chassis, your build is progressing alot faster than mine.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2665331
The stuff I have that will be of interest to you:
8v ECU, ignition module, and knock sensor control unit. I thought I threw them out, but I didn't.
16v Scirocco Wiring harness. This will have the wires for having the airbox to the right of the engine as it would be in a VW, so that would put it on your firewall/shelf there.
8v Distributor w/hall sender.
8v CIS-E fuel distributor/air box w/air flow plate pot. and differential pressure regulator.
8v Timing belt cover.
What of that would you need, then we could work out a price, don't worry about my listed prices too much.
Oh, is there anything else you would need? I know I have more stuff lying around, or in the pictures but I didn't list.
-Andy
PS- Congrats on finishing the chassis, your build is progressing alot faster than mine.
Last edited by Anonymous on June 16, 2006, 3:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Pete Gossett
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Andy Bro
- Posts: 294
- Joined: March 10, 2006, 12:48 am
- Building: S2 Replica
- Location: CT
You will need a knock sensor, thermo time switch, and a coolant temperature sensor for the CIS-E. I don't have any spares of either of those. For injector lines, look for the lines from an 8v CIS Rabbit/ Pre 85 Jetta / Any year 8v Scirocco/ Pre 88 Cabrio. Those should all be the same lines with the fuel distributor on the firewall for your car. For a fuel pump, look for the main fuel pump from any A1 VW. This is an inline type pump, the A2s have a pump that goes into a funky housing. You may also be able to use the main pump out of any car that uses CIS and has an inline style pump. That means, VW, Mercedes, Audi, Volvo, BMW, Porsche, hell, even Ferrari used it.
When I needed a pump for my Scirocco, I called up my local junkyard and got one for $50 with a DOA warranty. The key think with those pumps though, is to be sure there is a fuel supply going to them. If there isn't, they will burn up very quickly. That is why the VWs have 2 fuel pumps, the transfer pump and the main pump. As an example, I was using an old CIS fuel pump at work, I work at a Mercedes dealership, as a trasnfer pump for a barrel into another barrel. When the water stopped getting to the pump, and I didn't notice for like 30 seconds, it died.
I'll PM a price.
When I needed a pump for my Scirocco, I called up my local junkyard and got one for $50 with a DOA warranty. The key think with those pumps though, is to be sure there is a fuel supply going to them. If there isn't, they will burn up very quickly. That is why the VWs have 2 fuel pumps, the transfer pump and the main pump. As an example, I was using an old CIS fuel pump at work, I work at a Mercedes dealership, as a trasnfer pump for a barrel into another barrel. When the water stopped getting to the pump, and I didn't notice for like 30 seconds, it died.
I'll PM a price.
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Pete Gossett
Well it's been a busy week, but I did manage to squeeze in a bit of time for the locost.
I fabbed an adaptor plate out of 1/8" aluminum for the engine/bellhousing. I trimmed it down a bit after this pic to allow it to fit between the rails, and after getting everthing installed it looks like I'll need to double the thickness, but it should work OK.
I modified the rear bulkhead to allow the trans to fit w/the torque-tube attached & added a couple diagonal braces.
Most of my time was spent mounting the engine. I litterally had the entire drivetrain in/out over a dozen times getting everything lined up, and ended up having to trim 1/2" from the torque-tube shaft to make everything fit. Luckilly, the engine lined up better than I'd thought it would from my inital mockup. It looks like it should clear the hood once I relocate the bypass valve. I may need a slight bulge to clear the very top of the intake though.
I also removed the castors from my build table & tacked them onto the bottom of the frame....does this count as a "rolling-chassis"?
I still need to weld in a mount below the front of the torque-tube, and add the removable transaxel brackets in the rear, then it'll be time to start on the rear suspension!

I fabbed an adaptor plate out of 1/8" aluminum for the engine/bellhousing. I trimmed it down a bit after this pic to allow it to fit between the rails, and after getting everthing installed it looks like I'll need to double the thickness, but it should work OK.
I modified the rear bulkhead to allow the trans to fit w/the torque-tube attached & added a couple diagonal braces.
Most of my time was spent mounting the engine. I litterally had the entire drivetrain in/out over a dozen times getting everything lined up, and ended up having to trim 1/2" from the torque-tube shaft to make everything fit. Luckilly, the engine lined up better than I'd thought it would from my inital mockup. It looks like it should clear the hood once I relocate the bypass valve. I may need a slight bulge to clear the very top of the intake though.
I also removed the castors from my build table & tacked them onto the bottom of the frame....does this count as a "rolling-chassis"?

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greenmark59
Great job!
Your build is one of the more exciting ones for me because I think it really shows what can be done with a little ingenuity and a lot of hard work. It also shows that there are a lot more cars available to use for building a locost if one can spend the time re-engineering a "standard" fit drivetrain (engine, trans and diff).
Looking forward to the final product.
Looking forward to the final product.
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Pete Gossett
Thanks for the comments!
One of my motivating factors for doing this project, and a major reason for my methods, is that I know myself(and our finances
)well enough to know that if I have to spend money on many big-ticket items....which to me means ~$100 or more...I'll never get this car built. And even though I don't often get more than an hour or so at a time to work on it, I realize that as long as I'm working on it - even if it means scrapping something I've already done & redoing it - eventually I'm bound to finish it!
One of my motivating factors for doing this project, and a major reason for my methods, is that I know myself(and our finances
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datz510
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bhtooefr
- Posts: 7
- Joined: June 30, 2006, 9:02 pm
Wow, this is certainly an interesting build... coming along VERY nicely, I see.
:thumbup: to your ingenuity.
So, how much have you spent so far on this build, and how much do you expect to spend when you're all done, FWIW?
After a while (who knows when... it'll be a while after I've got my Jetta restored to good condition, though), I'll be referring to this thread VERY CLOSELY, as I plan on copying your work, just with a TDI instead of a 1.8 8-valve.
:thumbup: to your ingenuity.
So, how much have you spent so far on this build, and how much do you expect to spend when you're all done, FWIW?
After a while (who knows when... it'll be a while after I've got my Jetta restored to good condition, though), I'll be referring to this thread VERY CLOSELY, as I plan on copying your work, just with a TDI instead of a 1.8 8-valve.
1986 Volkswagen Golf | 1.6L NA diesel | 5spd manual | now a parts car
1992 Mazda Miata | 1.6L NA gasser | 5spd manual
1992 Mazda Miata | 1.6L NA gasser | 5spd manual
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Pete Gossett
Rough guess on expenses so far:
$180 in steel
$150 in R1 shocks
$30 for a steering wheel
$30 for the flywheel/clutch assembly
$75 in fuel injection/electrical parts
But I sold about $120 of parts from my free 924(shame I can't count that toward the GRM $200X budget).
There's still a lot I need to buy though:
Windshield $60
Starter $50
Tires $500
Brake rebuild $150
Suspension links $200
Nose cone $200
And I'm sure a bunch more....
I really want to keep it under the GRM challenge budget, but I'm going to need to find some great deals & be *very* resourcefull to make it under budget.
$180 in steel
$150 in R1 shocks
$30 for a steering wheel
$30 for the flywheel/clutch assembly
$75 in fuel injection/electrical parts
But I sold about $120 of parts from my free 924(shame I can't count that toward the GRM $200X budget).
There's still a lot I need to buy though:
Windshield $60
Starter $50
Tires $500
Brake rebuild $150
Suspension links $200
Nose cone $200
And I'm sure a bunch more....
I really want to keep it under the GRM challenge budget, but I'm going to need to find some great deals & be *very* resourcefull to make it under budget.
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Pete Gossett
I've been pretty busy w/little-league the past couple weeks, but I have managed to get some work on the rear suspension done.
Here's the upright & LCA. I still need to fab the mounting for the shock & UCA, as well as build both UCA's, but I hope to have the rear self-supporting in a couple more weeks.
Another view.

Here's the upright & LCA. I still need to fab the mounting for the shock & UCA, as well as build both UCA's, but I hope to have the rear self-supporting in a couple more weeks.
Another view.

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chetcpo
- Posts: 7043
- Joined: August 15, 2005, 10:13 pm
- Building: positive attitude
- Location: Charleston, WV
Mandurath wrote:Curious as to how much the "original" 924 engine weighed. I am looking at a 1980 924. Though in a bit better shape, so much less custom work hopefully. Also curious if that is the porsche trans or the audi one you have?
Note the "The end" above. Sorry but Pete threw in the towel a long time ago. He sold this build but I'm not sure to whom.
He is a wise man who does not grieve for the things which he has not, but rejoices for those which he has.
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