Suzuki GT Powered build
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- KENLUDE97
- Posts: 449
- Joined: July 14, 2006, 2:54 pm
- Building: vg30et locost
- Location: Corning NY
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eMKay
- Posts: 56
- Joined: July 2, 2006, 11:13 am
HUUUUGE UPDATE! Well, not a lot of work has taken place this week because I started my new job, but work is beginning to pick up again. Today however I received a key piece that has been holding me up, a piece I really should have waited until I had before starting the transmission tunnel. that's right....The transmission! And as you can see, I guessed correctly on the size of the tranny tunnel and it fits perfectly....
This also allows me to test fit the engine so I can start making motor mounts, engine going in, soooo easy, the total package only weighs 266lbs...
It's in!!! With plenty of space to spare. I can move it forward and back about 5" in the engine bay, and the distributor easily clears the firewall tube, a part I was afraid of...
All the intake stuff hangs off the right side, it is a tight fit over here but some of this crap (evap stuff, idle control heater stuff) is getting tossed. The engine will be set to the right an inch but I should be able to stand it straight up. I may modify the oilpan to have it sit more level as it sits 1.5" under the car, I may make a custom pan with a larger valley area with baffles so I can make the engine sit a little lower. It will still hang below the car...
Look at all the room for a header, and steering column on this side...
I have a question on the angle of the engine...What should it be? Straight back to where the diff will be at ride height?[/img]
This also allows me to test fit the engine so I can start making motor mounts, engine going in, soooo easy, the total package only weighs 266lbs...
It's in!!! With plenty of space to spare. I can move it forward and back about 5" in the engine bay, and the distributor easily clears the firewall tube, a part I was afraid of...
All the intake stuff hangs off the right side, it is a tight fit over here but some of this crap (evap stuff, idle control heater stuff) is getting tossed. The engine will be set to the right an inch but I should be able to stand it straight up. I may modify the oilpan to have it sit more level as it sits 1.5" under the car, I may make a custom pan with a larger valley area with baffles so I can make the engine sit a little lower. It will still hang below the car...
Look at all the room for a header, and steering column on this side...
I have a question on the angle of the engine...What should it be? Straight back to where the diff will be at ride height?[/img]
- KENLUDE97
- Posts: 449
- Joined: July 14, 2006, 2:54 pm
- Building: vg30et locost
- Location: Corning NY
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Dave
- Posts: 1072
- Joined: August 16, 2005, 10:29 am
- Location: Alberta, Canada
- Contact:
- Scott
- Posts: 116
- Joined: September 9, 2006, 8:02 am
- Location: East Berlin, PA
- Contact:
- Scott
- Posts: 116
- Joined: September 9, 2006, 8:02 am
- Location: East Berlin, PA
- Contact:
hahaha, I love the word replacement. We use it on our site, but we all, for the most part, know each other, so we're a bit more "loose" with the tounge at times. I think, "firetruck", is the only replacement word we use.
The trouble with having an open mind, of course, is that people will insist on coming along and trying to put things in it.
-Terry Pratchett
-Terry Pratchett
- KENLUDE97
- Posts: 449
- Joined: July 14, 2006, 2:54 pm
- Building: vg30et locost
- Location: Corning NY
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Dave
- Posts: 1072
- Joined: August 16, 2005, 10:29 am
- Location: Alberta, Canada
- Contact:
eMKay wrote:Dave wrote:How tall is that engine from the top of cam cover to bottom of the oil pan?
I still haven't descided on my motor. Picking up my frame and fiberglass tommorow if the weather holds (its snowing).
About 24"
Thanks. Seems about average for a OHC engine.
And yeah our summers are short. Actually we only have two seasons here: winter and road construction.
- Scott
- Posts: 116
- Joined: September 9, 2006, 8:02 am
- Location: East Berlin, PA
- Contact:
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chetcpo
- Posts: 7043
- Joined: August 15, 2005, 10:13 pm
- Building: positive attitude
- Location: Charleston, WV
eMKay wrote:<snip>
I have a question on the angle of the engine...What should it be? Straight back to where the diff will be at ride height?
This quote is from Keith's book, it may shed some light on your delimma.
In order to prevent vibration, the transmission and rear end need to be aligned properly. They need to be parallel in both the horizontal and vertical planes. The differential should be slightly lower than the transmission so the driveshaft is at about a 3 degree angle when compared to the output shaft of the transmission.................If you have a live axle, all measurements should be made with the car at normal ride height.
He is a wise man who does not grieve for the things which he has not, but rejoices for those which he has.
-
ostdi
- Posts: 7
- Joined: October 4, 2005, 10:18 pm
- Building: Haynes roadster
I cut this post out from earlier in this thread.
Skinny what vehicle do these Moog ES2261 tie rod ends come out of?
I'm going to the wreckers and like to find some to use for mock up.
Robert
SkinnyG wrote:I'm using the Chevette lower, and a VW tie rod as an upper (Moog ES419). The Chevette tie rod does fit, but is female thread.
If you need a longer tie rod for your Chevette rack, a Moog ES2261 fits (just picked up a pair) and is just over an inch longer. Sit down for the price though - they're expensive (mine are cheap off shore. Instead of $125 each, I paid $25 each).
G
Skinny what vehicle do these Moog ES2261 tie rod ends come out of?
I'm going to the wreckers and like to find some to use for mock up.
Robert
- SkinnyG
- Posts: 1340
- Joined: September 30, 2005, 1:28 am
- Building: Lethal Locost
- Location: Sunny-Okanagan, Canada, eh?!
- Contact:
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eMKay
- Posts: 56
- Joined: July 2, 2006, 11:13 am
Well, the frame is 95% done, the other 5% will have to wait until I get the nose and scuttle so I decided to coat the frame with POR-15 while it's still warm (the stuff doesn't cure right when it's cold)
Step 1, degrease the frame (I used Purple Power diluted to 50%)
Step 2, spray the frame with Metal Ready and let sit for 15 minutes, then rinse off and allow to dry. Metal Ready is phosphoric acid with zinc in it, it etches the metal and leaves a coating of zinc, in simpler terms, it galvanizes the metal
Then paint with POR-15, it really looks great once painted, hides a lot of flaws.
One thing to remember when working with POR-15, WEAR GLOVES! It's not dangerous, but when you get it on your hands, it doesn't come off. I tried everything, this stuff is awesome.
[/list]
Step 1, degrease the frame (I used Purple Power diluted to 50%)
Step 2, spray the frame with Metal Ready and let sit for 15 minutes, then rinse off and allow to dry. Metal Ready is phosphoric acid with zinc in it, it etches the metal and leaves a coating of zinc, in simpler terms, it galvanizes the metal
Then paint with POR-15, it really looks great once painted, hides a lot of flaws.
One thing to remember when working with POR-15, WEAR GLOVES! It's not dangerous, but when you get it on your hands, it doesn't come off. I tried everything, this stuff is awesome.
[/list]-
RebelGT
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