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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: April 12, 2007, 12:48 am 
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After researching the Locost about 5 years ago, I was distracted by Pontiac Fieros. I am now back on track and have started the build.

It is a SHO powered Locost built to Mcsorley's +442 plans with 2" removed from the passenger compartment.

A friend provided a 8x4 piece of staging the use as the build table. It is aluminum framed with 1/2" adjustment in each leg.
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My build area.
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I am using a miter saw with a metal cutting blade and a Hobart mig welder. The miter seems to make good cuts only requiring some quick dressing of the ends with a file.
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The lower frame rails are completed. If the rest of the build would just go this quick and easy.
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Gene

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PostPosted: April 12, 2007, 2:32 am 
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You're off to a good start. Tell us about that miter saw; brand, revs, blade diameter. Was it cheaper than getting a dedicated low-rev metal cutting saw?

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PostPosted: April 17, 2007, 10:32 pm 
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JackMcCornack wrote:
You're off to a good start. Tell us about that miter saw; brand, revs, blade diameter. Was it cheaper than getting a dedicated low-rev metal cutting saw?

The miter saw is a SHOP FORGE brand and was 49.00. It is setup for an 8.5" blade, but I am using 7" metal cutting blades also Shop Forge brand.
The blades were 2.00 each and 1 blade cut all the lower tubes, uprights and most of the top rails. I started a new blade when cutting the L section tubes. Three blades should handle the whole build.
I did have to adjust the stops to 90 degrees, as it was cutting on a 87 degree angle when new.

Gene


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PostPosted: April 17, 2007, 11:07 pm 
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I have been stalled the last few days. The wind has been blowing to hard to weld. This is the only drawback to a mig welder outside.
I used the down time to cut the L section tubes, uprights and top rails.
I will say, the two vertical tubes on the L section seemed to give me fits. I kept coming up to short, then turned one tube 90degrees before the second cut. I ended up cutting 7 tubes to get two that were right. I am glad I was able to use the bad cuts for the 10" tubes in the rear and the uprights so I minimized the waste.

Today it calmed down enough to do some welding. I installed the uprights and the L section.

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Gene


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PostPosted: April 18, 2007, 10:10 pm 
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I made some more progress today. I also used the last of my first 9 tubes. I have some ends left to cover some of the reinforcements.
The supplier here will cut any length from 1 to 24" tubes for $1.11 per foot. I should have sat down and figured the best lengths to buy to minimize waste. Tomorrow, I wil pick up some more.

The rear and top rails were installed and the frame now looks kind of like a boat.

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At this point the frame weighs 52 lbs.

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And now for the obigatory first drive and sound effect show.

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Gene


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PostPosted: April 19, 2007, 11:40 pm 
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Tonight I bolted the engine and trans together and set it in the frame for an initial test fit. Now that I know how far back I can put it, I will remove the trans tomorrow and block the frame up to mark the locations of the engine bay rails.
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PostPosted: April 19, 2007, 11:48 pm 
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Thats a very large engine, your hood is going to be very high


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PostPosted: April 19, 2007, 11:56 pm 
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The total height of the engine is 27". I am looking into a modified oil pan which will remove 2" from the height.

Gene

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SHO Powered Locost coming to a street near you Summer 2009 uhh 2012/2013????.
http://www.scrabblegod.com/locost


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PostPosted: April 20, 2007, 3:37 am 
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Yes the engine is alittle high, but I couldnt help and think that a hood cut out would let everyone see your nice intake manifold. The olny problem then would be where to get cool air from (also noticed the air intake is to the rear).

I look forward to the proress.

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PostPosted: April 20, 2007, 7:31 am 
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The intake on this motor is symetrical so it can be rotated. The only drawback is it requires a spacer (which is sold aftermarket) that raises the intake 3/4". If I can get the pan shortened, it will give me the room to rotate it. Otherwise, it will point over the Q bar with an elbow pointing out to the fresh air.

Gene


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PostPosted: April 20, 2007, 9:15 am 
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too bad you couldn't get a set of ITB's for that lump, they'd look good sticking through the hood.


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PostPosted: April 20, 2007, 1:12 pm 
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Has anyone ever use air intake from the passanger area? Yes it would be noisey

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PostPosted: April 21, 2007, 10:01 am 
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Heh Not to mention the risk of sucking in the occasional errant french fry....


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PostPosted: April 21, 2007, 12:46 pm 
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385# is not bad at all considering the power output. It is about the same weight as a Lexus ohc v8. A miata 1.8L is about 300# and a aluminum cadillac 4.9L ohv v8 is 340#. A power adder is going to add 50# at a minimum. I searched for Zetec and duratec vulcan v6 weights but came up empty. I think both would be heavier than 300#. The vulcan is probably over 350#. Do your weight and balance calcs to determine approximately where it should sit.

As for the height, the upper frame tubes after the uca mounting points could angle upward for a higher cowl, with more space between the upper and lower outer tubes at the cockpit. Since the seat height has not changed, a lower profile windscreen could be fitted yet still extend above the drivers head.

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PostPosted: May 8, 2007, 11:42 pm 
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The build has been a little slow the last week, but a got a little done including welding many of the joints.

I will get the trans tunnel done in the next day or so.

I now have the weights on the major components.
Engine 385
Trans 90
Rear axle loaded with brakes 170
Flywheel, clutch and pressure plate 32lbs.
I am looking into a different pressure plate as the stock one is cast iron.
I will have the spindles tomorrow to weigh.

Here is the rear behind the frame.
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The rear stripped of its brackets.
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Time to move the frame and get on all those 1" welds
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