David Hempy's Miata +442 Locost 7
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- dhempy
- Man of Constant Hazard
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- Joined: February 20, 2006, 11:18 am
- Building: 1.6 Miata 442
- Location: Lexington, KY
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David Hempy's Miata +442 Locost 7
About a half-year late, but I'm finally getting around to posting some build photos. I *strongly* encourage feedback. If I'm doing something dumb, you know of a better way, or you like what I'm doing (or all of the above!) please post a reply or contact me off list. I look forward to exchanging ideas with everyone.
I am in Lexington, KY, and this is the first car I've built. I have a lot to learn!
-dave
ps. Ignore the post dates up through 10/24/2007. I committed to the project in Spring of 2006 and started actual work in earnest in April 2007. I'll try to put a date in the topic or body of each post, when I know it.
pps. If you landed directly on this page, the car I am building is a a Locost Seven, which is a replica/approximation of a Lotus 7. The Lotus 7 was created by British designer Colin Chapman in 1957. You can learn more about the history of the Seven at Wikipedia and find many photos of the real McCoy and replicas with Google
ppps. Fast forward to Autumn 2009 and this is what you get:
June 2010:
Jan 2011:
I'll try to update this photo from time to time as the car progresses, but jump to the last page if you want the latest.
I am in Lexington, KY, and this is the first car I've built. I have a lot to learn!
-dave
ps. Ignore the post dates up through 10/24/2007. I committed to the project in Spring of 2006 and started actual work in earnest in April 2007. I'll try to put a date in the topic or body of each post, when I know it.
pps. If you landed directly on this page, the car I am building is a a Locost Seven, which is a replica/approximation of a Lotus 7. The Lotus 7 was created by British designer Colin Chapman in 1957. You can learn more about the history of the Seven at Wikipedia and find many photos of the real McCoy and replicas with Google
ppps. Fast forward to Autumn 2009 and this is what you get:
June 2010:
Jan 2011:
I'll try to update this photo from time to time as the car progresses, but jump to the last page if you want the latest.
Last edited by dhempy on June 2, 2011, 1:06 am, edited 6 times in total.
Reason: Add updated photos
Reason: Add updated photos
- dhempy
- Man of Constant Hazard
- Posts: 3195
- Joined: February 20, 2006, 11:18 am
- Building: 1.6 Miata 442
- Location: Lexington, KY
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4/12/2006 - Donor found
In April 2006, I found a 1993 Miata LE with some high-speed modification to the front end. Specifically, the owner gently careened off a cement barrier at 65 mph, or something like that. The hood, fenders, and bumper are trashed, but the only thing under the hood bunged up was the A/C pump, the thermostat housing, and a tie rod.
It had been sitting for a few years in the seller's brother's barn, covered and dry. I bought the car on the spot, and they let me leave it in the barn for another half-year until I made room for it at home.
I expected to sell off a bunch of parts and break even (or even make a profit!) but I'm having too much fun building to get on eBay. Anybody need anything other than the drivetrain? I've got all the red interior parts, except for the red leather seats.
After stripping the car, I noticed the differential housing arm was broken, but that was easily TIG welded back by a pro.
It had been sitting for a few years in the seller's brother's barn, covered and dry. I bought the car on the spot, and they let me leave it in the barn for another half-year until I made room for it at home.
I expected to sell off a bunch of parts and break even (or even make a profit!) but I'm having too much fun building to get on eBay. Anybody need anything other than the drivetrain? I've got all the red interior parts, except for the red leather seats.
After stripping the car, I noticed the differential housing arm was broken, but that was easily TIG welded back by a pro.
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Last edited by dhempy on October 25, 2007, 12:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
- dhempy
- Man of Constant Hazard
- Posts: 3195
- Joined: February 20, 2006, 11:18 am
- Building: 1.6 Miata 442
- Location: Lexington, KY
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November, 2006 - Shop finished
Hard to build a car without a shop, so I had to build one first. I guess this put me about $10,000 over the 250 Pound budget, even before I cut my first piece of steel!
This is a 16' x 24' (exterior dimension) garage. As I write this nearly a year later, I'd comfortably call this the smallest reasonable size you'd want to build a car in. If you had some good other storage, you could maybe go down to 20' in length, and if you had another room to do bench work on maybe you could go a bit narrower...but I'd try real hard to shoot for 16x24 as a minimum. I think I'd be in heaven if I had a proper 24x24 2-car garage...except then my lovely wife would probably want to actually park in the thing or something, so maybe this isn't so bad. It fits my needs just perfectly, and "inspires" me to clean it up every month or so as the junk piles up.
The walls are 2x6 construction, 24" on center. I don't know why all buildings aren't built this way. Same cost, easy construction, R-19 insulation. Metal roof, huge overhangs, and no gutters. 100A 220V service, and air conditioning. So far, heat is not required...a few 500W halogen work lamps keep the place toasty. This is going to be a low-maintenance, high-utility, comfortable building.
The upstairs is open, currently serving as the woodshop, but will be the pickin' parlor once the car is done and there are proper stairs to decks at either end.
I broke ground on 6/11/2006. This photo was taken 11/27/2006, when you could reasonably call it "finished." I worked on it nearly every day during that time. I had help with the footer, foundation, floor, and trusses, and did about 90% of the work alone. Like the Locost, this was an adventure in education.
This might not seem relevant to a builder's log, but your shop is probably your most important tool, right after your brain and your hands. I would have a hard time encouraging anyone to start a project like this without a good shop situation. I'm sure it could be done under tarps in the driveway, but I have a hard time seeing a finished project come of it.
Okay, enough about the shop...back to the car.
ps. Don't forget to update your homeowner's insurance.
This is a 16' x 24' (exterior dimension) garage. As I write this nearly a year later, I'd comfortably call this the smallest reasonable size you'd want to build a car in. If you had some good other storage, you could maybe go down to 20' in length, and if you had another room to do bench work on maybe you could go a bit narrower...but I'd try real hard to shoot for 16x24 as a minimum. I think I'd be in heaven if I had a proper 24x24 2-car garage...except then my lovely wife would probably want to actually park in the thing or something, so maybe this isn't so bad. It fits my needs just perfectly, and "inspires" me to clean it up every month or so as the junk piles up.
The walls are 2x6 construction, 24" on center. I don't know why all buildings aren't built this way. Same cost, easy construction, R-19 insulation. Metal roof, huge overhangs, and no gutters. 100A 220V service, and air conditioning. So far, heat is not required...a few 500W halogen work lamps keep the place toasty. This is going to be a low-maintenance, high-utility, comfortable building.
The upstairs is open, currently serving as the woodshop, but will be the pickin' parlor once the car is done and there are proper stairs to decks at either end.
I broke ground on 6/11/2006. This photo was taken 11/27/2006, when you could reasonably call it "finished." I worked on it nearly every day during that time. I had help with the footer, foundation, floor, and trusses, and did about 90% of the work alone. Like the Locost, this was an adventure in education.
This might not seem relevant to a builder's log, but your shop is probably your most important tool, right after your brain and your hands. I would have a hard time encouraging anyone to start a project like this without a good shop situation. I'm sure it could be done under tarps in the driveway, but I have a hard time seeing a finished project come of it.
Okay, enough about the shop...back to the car.
ps. Don't forget to update your homeowner's insurance.
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- dhempy
- Man of Constant Hazard
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04/20/2007 - Raw Materials
I spent the winter of 2007 tearing down the Miata a little bit, but mostly taking care of a medical crisis in the family. In April I started getting serious about the build and doing things that didn't have to be qualified as, "getting ready to build," but honest-to-goodness, "building."
This is what an aspiring Locost frame looks like. $184.29 (incl. tax) for 192 pounds of steel, canine not included. I learned later that $50 of the total was cut charges so they'd fit in my pickup. Next time I'll bring an angle grinder and an extension cord and cut it myself in their parking lot!
This is what an aspiring Locost frame looks like. $184.29 (incl. tax) for 192 pounds of steel, canine not included. I learned later that $50 of the total was cut charges so they'd fit in my pickup. Next time I'll bring an angle grinder and an extension cord and cut it myself in their parking lot!
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- dhempy
- Man of Constant Hazard
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- Building: 1.6 Miata 442
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04/20/2007 - Build Table
My build table is a 1" MDF top on steel studs, with cheap 1/2" plywood on the bottom. I think this is called a torsion box? The MDF starts out perfectly flat, and the studs keep it that way. Cost to build the table top: about $70. Will be useful for other projects down the line.
The top is heavier than it looks. Fully built, I struggle to get it on or off the gurney alone. I'd consider using thinner MDF next time...maybe. Also, a 4'x8' panel is NOT 48" x 96"! It's an inch longer each way...49x97. This actually works pretty well for us, but make note of it when drawing your center line.
Not shown here is a third stud going between across the four long studs. Not sure it was needed, but seemed like a good idea at the time, and I was having fun learning how to work with steel studs.
Someone else suggested wiring it with outlets at the four corners. That would have been handy, and maybe worth the trouble. I have a heavy power strip hanging from the ceiling, and like that pretty well.
Later on, I drilled holes in it to clamp down tubes. Don't use a hole saw...it clogs up too bad on the glue/wood. Use your biggest spade bit and drill 2 or three overlapping holes to fit your needs...much easier and allows smaller holes. Also, doing it again I'd consider moving the perimeter studs in a little farther, so I could clamp the outer cockpit tubes directly from the side, instead of having to drill holes on the interior for clamps. Dunno...I'd have to see how far in they'd have to go. I'd also consider mounting the C-shaped studs facing in instead of out, for the same reason. Again...not sure about that...haven't thought about it too much.
The table top sits on a hospital gurney, which worked out great. You can't buy wheels this nice for $100. Try to buy a gurney at a university or hospital surplus auction for $20 or so. I was tempted to use the gurney throughout the build, but didn't trust it for weights beyond just the frame, so it got retired in favor of sawhorses once I started mounting the drivetrain in the chassis.
The top is heavier than it looks. Fully built, I struggle to get it on or off the gurney alone. I'd consider using thinner MDF next time...maybe. Also, a 4'x8' panel is NOT 48" x 96"! It's an inch longer each way...49x97. This actually works pretty well for us, but make note of it when drawing your center line.
Not shown here is a third stud going between across the four long studs. Not sure it was needed, but seemed like a good idea at the time, and I was having fun learning how to work with steel studs.
Someone else suggested wiring it with outlets at the four corners. That would have been handy, and maybe worth the trouble. I have a heavy power strip hanging from the ceiling, and like that pretty well.
Later on, I drilled holes in it to clamp down tubes. Don't use a hole saw...it clogs up too bad on the glue/wood. Use your biggest spade bit and drill 2 or three overlapping holes to fit your needs...much easier and allows smaller holes. Also, doing it again I'd consider moving the perimeter studs in a little farther, so I could clamp the outer cockpit tubes directly from the side, instead of having to drill holes on the interior for clamps. Dunno...I'd have to see how far in they'd have to go. I'd also consider mounting the C-shaped studs facing in instead of out, for the same reason. Again...not sure about that...haven't thought about it too much.
The table top sits on a hospital gurney, which worked out great. You can't buy wheels this nice for $100. Try to buy a gurney at a university or hospital surplus auction for $20 or so. I was tempted to use the gurney throughout the build, but didn't trust it for weights beyond just the frame, so it got retired in favor of sawhorses once I started mounting the drivetrain in the chassis.
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Last edited by dhempy on March 5, 2008, 10:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
- dhempy
- Man of Constant Hazard
- Posts: 3195
- Joined: February 20, 2006, 11:18 am
- Building: 1.6 Miata 442
- Location: Lexington, KY
- Contact:
04/22/2007 - Actual work on the car!!! YAY!
Nothing but a rectangle tacked together, but very satisfying all the same.
2008 update - See the next 50 hours worth of work in seven minutes:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOKVah9gxqY
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Last edited by dhempy on January 7, 2008, 2:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
- dhempy
- Man of Constant Hazard
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- Building: 1.6 Miata 442
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04/25/2007 - Entering the Third Dimentia
Another feel-good moment...breaking out of 2D into 3D.
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- dhempy
- Man of Constant Hazard
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04/25/2007 - Tacking Tip
Mark Rivera passed a tip along to me: When you've got a tube tacked in the right place (and checked it!), go ahead and tack all four corners of each tube. This will greatly increase the rigidity of the structure and reduce flexing during final welding.
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Great job on the shop. I've told myself that one day I will build myself a house, so seeing you build that shop in about 5 months gives me hope that this isn't something that will take a lifetime. I actually started reading up on it a little while back. Do you have any tips, or things that you struggled with that you wish you had done differently, aside from the size?
- dhempy
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THAWA wrote:Great job on the shop. I've told myself that one day I will build myself a house, so seeing you build that shop in about 5 months gives me hope that this isn't something that will take a lifetime. I actually started reading up on it a little while back. Do you have any tips, or things that you struggled with that you wish you had done differently, aside from the size?
Thanks, Thawa!
Yes, I think building a house is well within the grasp of anyone inclined to do it. You'll need a good plan, determination, time, and money. I recommend buying plans. Looking back, I realize I didn't need the plans that much, and might not use them for a second go, but just having most of the variables eliminated lets you actually make some progress and personal decisions. (Same applies for the Locost, just to keep things on topic!)
These are the plans I used, and I recommend them:
http://www.homesteaddesign.com/yaquina.html
They have lots of other plans, too. I didn't install stairs, instead using a pull-down stair. Eventually there will be a deck with proper stairs outside. And of course, there is no bathroom/kitchen/anything upstairs. I highly recommend a metal roof and 6" walls if you're heating or cooling the place. And BTW, I *highly* recommend installing heat and/or AC from the get-go, as your climate requires. If you can't use your shop at least 11.5 months of the year, you're throwing money away.
I went overboard with the electric service, which I don't regret and would probably do again. Who knows...I might get a Bridgeport one day! I didn't run any plumbing, which simplified things and isn't really a problem in my scenario. I probably should have buried a conduit for a possible future water line, but oh, well. Other than that, I can't imagine much I would do different.
Well, I might do the floor better. I already have a few cracks. If they bothered me I'd be pissed, but they don't so I'm not. I have a 4" slab with no mesh or bar. I have a feeling they didn't add any fiber to my concrete like I ordered, but I don't really know much about that stuff.
And of course, I'd make it as big as you can swing! I've never heard anyone say they wish their shop was just a little bit smaller.
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- dhempy
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Re: 04/20/2007 - Build Table
Huh? Please elucidate and clarify. I'm not grokking that third stud. Your table sure looks stiff enough; it looked good in person, too, but it was all closed in by then. Could you supply a crude sketch?dhempy wrote:Not shown here is a third stud going between across the four long studs. Not sure it was needed, but seemed like a good idea at the time, and I was having fun learning how to work with steel studs.
Locost builder and adventurer, and founder (but no longer owner) of Kinetic Vehicles
- mookie
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Man, that is one sweet looking Man-Cave you have there. Build a loft upstairs, beer fridge, small bed, maybe a tv.....
I'd never see the wife and kids again!
I'd never see the wife and kids again!
A man must keep a little back shop where he can be himself without reserve. In solitude alone can he know true freedom.
-Michel de Montaigne
Scratch built book frame with an 83 Celica donor 22RE. SHE'S A ROLLER!!!
-Michel de Montaigne
Scratch built book frame with an 83 Celica donor 22RE. SHE'S A ROLLER!!!
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