Can you use a different offset wheel instead of re-fabbing the control arms?
Sure I can, but that would change the scrub radius and Locosts are notorious for their sensitivity to scrub--plus the added expense of new wheels. I could change the body, too, but new control arms seemed quickest and easiest, and in the long run, cheapest. Using the PVC suspension simulator, I can get it how I want it before sparks fly.
On the outboard end, use 1" .083 wall round and/or square tubing; you'll get a nice firm fit. Use ERW rather than DOM; the welded ridge inside will help locate the PVC tube.
For the upper adapter, the 1/2" schedule 40 PVC threads nicely to 16mm or 5/8", depending on your upper ball joint. On the adapter shown I've used a 3" steel tube with a 2" threaded PVC bung (16mm x 1.5).
The lower adapter has an end like the usual Kinetic rectangular control arm for Miata lower ball joints, with a 2-1/2" long section of square tubing welded between the top and bottom plates. Yep, just me an my welding duck at two in the morning.
The lower shock mount bracket is left free, to position and affix another day. Note there's a 1/8" hole in the bottom of the bracket; that's so I can hold it in place with a pop rivit.
Also note I used two bottom plates instead of a bottom and top plate. That's 'cause the inner ear of the Miata ball joint mounts to the bottom of my control arm, so by using two bottom plates (and drilling the rectangular section accordingly, and making the curved cutaway on the end go all the way through) I can flip the ball joint other side up, and use this same adapter on the other side of the car.
The adapter for the rear arm on the lower control arm assembly is a 1/2" PVC sli-slip joiner with a 1/2" schedule 40 PVC plug in the outboard end, drilled for a 3/8" bold and milled to 1" thick...but it's a 20 cent part and it's just an adapter, so I think a flap wheel on an angle grinder would do as well as a mill, long as it's 1" thick when you're done.