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 Post subject: Measuring for driveshalf
PostPosted: December 17, 2007, 11:15 pm 
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Ok its time to get my driveshaft made. Currently the car is up on jackstands. Is it better to measure the length needed when the car is up or down on the ground. Obviously the rear axle moves up or down a bit.


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PostPosted: December 17, 2007, 11:29 pm 
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If you have a live axel put it on the ground. You will need it to be at ride height.

If it is IRS it shouldn't matter.

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PostPosted: December 18, 2007, 4:32 am 
'Struth - just remember that on a live-axle car, the driveshaft gets shorter as the diff raises (as in, going over a bump), so you have to allow some room on the front slider engagement for that. Maybe let the diff go to full droop, measure the length between the rear of the trans and the diff snout, then to full bump and measure again, just to be on the safe side...


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PostPosted: December 18, 2007, 8:50 am 
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I install the slip yoke .75" from fully in and the flange coupler. I measure from coupler bearing cap center to yoke bearing cap center. The angles should be set before measuring for a shaft. Pinion down, output shaft up.

If the rear end drops too far, travel can be limited by upper shock mount position or straps.

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PostPosted: December 18, 2007, 1:43 pm 
Here is what I did last month (for what it 's worth-and hoping it will be of some use to you).

I cut both ends of my donor's shaft (plus 2-3"), bought a DOM tube that would sleeve tightly over them, fed the spline end into the transmission minus 1/2" to 5/8". I bolted the flange end to the diff, laid the tube over the two ends and scribed the length. Then making sure that yokes were on the same plane (vital) I tack welded the tube, took the whole assembly to a shop and for $100 I got them to complete the welds and to balance the driveshaft.

I am not saying that this is the best way...it sure was cheap.

Philippe.


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PostPosted: December 18, 2007, 3:28 pm 
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Philippe wrote:
Here is what I did last month (for what it 's worth-and hoping it will be of some use to you).

I cut both ends of my donor's shaft (plus 2-3"), bought a DOM tube that would sleeve tightly over them, fed the spline end into the transmission minus 1/2" to 5/8". I bolted the flange end to the diff, laid the tube over the two ends and scribed the length. Then making sure that yokes were on the same plane (vital) I tack welded the tube, took the whole assembly to a shop and for $100 I got them to complete the welds and to balance the driveshaft.

I am not saying that this is the best way...it sure was cheap.

Philippe.


I measured the center-to-center distance I needed between the U-joints, dropped the driveshaft off at the driveshaft place (a big rig truck shop). They removed the yoke, cut the shaft, balanced and painted it for $50. Sweet.

They fussed that my u-joints were shot (with a "notch" at the center), but they aren't servicable in a Miata. The Miata guys say the notch is normal, and I decided not to worry about it until it actually starts making some noise or something.


-dave

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PostPosted: December 18, 2007, 5:42 pm 
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dhempy wrote:
<snip>
They fussed that my u-joints were shot (with a "notch" at the center), but they aren't servicable in a Miata. The Miata guys say the notch is normal, and I decided not to worry about it until it actually starts making some noise or something.


-dave


Those u joints are in fact replaceable. I discovered this when I went in to have my DS shortened and the guy behind the counter asked if I wanted new Ujoints while he was at it. They cost about $24 each. I think they were held in by snap rings and required no modification to the yokes. The new ones have grease fittings too. :)

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PostPosted: December 19, 2007, 8:38 am 
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It makes sense that their is a notch in one position since the miata joints are always in one position. That it is normal or typical does not make it good.


Who makes this special joint to fit a miata driveshaft? There are replacement joints available for aftermarket driveshafts to fit the miata. I think your parts guy is confused. None of the major parts stores carry it.

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PostPosted: December 19, 2007, 10:58 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
It makes sense that their is a notch in one position since the miata joints are always in one position. That it is normal or typical does not make it good.


Who makes this special joint to fit a miata driveshaft? There are replacement joints available for aftermarket driveshafts to fit the miata. I think your parts guy is confused. None of the major parts stores carry it.


No, he isn't confused. I watched him hammer the old ones out and put the new ones in. I just called him and he said if he recalls correctly it was a Rockford 43010A. You can see on my invoice the price for two new ujoints and the $30 for labor to install them and shorten the shaft.

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PostPosted: December 20, 2007, 8:29 am 
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I said confused because there is a big difference between somebody telling you something (which is what you said) versus installing it. I just wanted the mfg and pn so I could check it out.

I wish you had shared this info sooner. I had to buy a replacement driveshaft for my wifes '94 a few months ago.

I suppose these joints are not offered by the regular parts stores since some light grinding and deburring is required. That would not keep me from giving them a try.

http://www.rockforddriveline.com/Staked ... ctions.htm

http://www.rockforddriveline.com/New%20 ... 20Page.pdf

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