LocostUSA.com

I have been accumulating pieces over the last month or so, and today just put together the build table, and experimented with the welder. I am going to build a book size Locost powered by a Suzuki Swift GT 1.3 DOHC engine mated to a Samurai transmission. For the rear axle I will use either a Mazda or Toyota axle, the front will be either MustangII, or I will cross the border and get some Pony spindles for the front end.

Next week I will get steel and start the frame, the welder I bought is a Century 80 that was on sale for $229 at Lowes, it's a flux core 110v welder. Today I experimented with it to see what it will take to make a strong weld, first I tried a few tacks with the wire speed set to 5 and they were very weak, then I tried 7, and they were better but I got the best results with the speed at 8 and the power on low. he wire speed seems a little high compared to when I used a MIG welder in the past, and compared to the last flux welder I used, but I guess speed varies by manufacturer. I practiced on some 1x1x16ga that came off the old seat mount for my race car, I was really impressed by the cleanliness and strenght of the weld made by this little welder, this is my first time using a flux welder, and when I cleaned off the flux it looked almost as good as the welds I get with a MIG welder...





The very heavy build table up and out of the way...


I will update this with actual car building over the next couple weeks, this will not be a fast build.

Getting your welder set up right isn't easy. You want to be careful about getting your wire speed too fast or you will just end up depositing a big fat bead on the surface that doesn't penetrate well. I've found that a slower speed is usually better because it lets the arc burn the weld in more before too much steel is deposited. I am no welding expert, this is just based on my personal experience. You may want to cut some cross sections of some test welds to check for penetration.

Congrats on getting the ball rolling!

eMKay wrote:I will cross the border and get some Pony spindles for the front end.

Its Stellar spindles and Pony rear axle.

Anyway build sounds great - Suzuki GT engine is probably ideal IMO - I'd use it but I'm not sure enough of myself to do the fwd->rwd conversion at the same time as building the car.

chetcpo wrote:Getting your welder set up right isn't easy. You want to be careful about getting your wire speed too fast or you will just end up depositing a big fat bead on the surface that doesn't penetrate well. I've found that a slower speed is usually better because it lets the arc burn the weld in more before too much steel is deposited. I am no welding expert, this is just based on my personal experience. You may want to cut some cross sections of some test welds to check for penetration.

Congrats on getting the ball rolling!

The problem with slower speed is popcorn, maybe this wire isn't the best because when it's running slower all it does is pop and the wire burns back. To test it I made a U and stomped on it, which turned it into a P. The weld heald strong and the steel bent.

edit: I cut it apart, what do you think? Ok?

you need to keep your tip closer to the weld to keep the popping from happening, as well I find that usually happens if you have too high of wire speed and not enough amperage, gas makes for mich nicer welds and a lot les "bird [PooPoo]" to clean up.

I went out and experimented some more, I did just what you suggested and it worked. I tried welding at a steep angle too to see how that would go. That part is hard.

Well, I wasn't going to do it...But I put my race car up for sale to make room for the Locost project, and I found the first critical part, a Samurai Tranny ($10.50 on ebay, $80 shipping)

Here is a link to my car if anyone cares...
http://itforum.improvedtouring.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8605

Hello there. Someone from the same region as myself! I'm from Corning NY area. I'm still in the research phase of my build. But how cool that you are so close!

I'm kind of on a different route than you. I wanted a little more power. I thinking that i'm going with a Super Stalker type build. I will build the chassis and all myself. I will be using a L67 (SC GM 3800) I think that i will be using a +442 with increased tubing size of 1-1/4"

I look forward to following your build, and starting mine as soon as i do some more reading and teach myself to weld


Good luck!
Kenlude97

I want the lightest build, I'm aming for a 1300lb car (with my 200lb ass in it) with 130 or so HP. I think it can be done. The engine I want to use is light and can be made to rev to 9000rpm with only a cam and breathing mods, it makes my spine tingle just thinking about it

Lighter is defently better! I was reading the article in C&D and there 0-60 time of a na miata were not that impressive... and i can not afford to go with my desired drivetrain (s2000) so i stumbled on the Super Stalker and that it from there. I think that they come in at 1400lbs without driver. Not too bad i guess I have allways had a soft spot for the L67.

Good luck on you build! i will have to come up again to Buffalo for a auto-x!

Somewhat related to your build, and cool as a reference, this guy changed an early Swift/Sprint to rear wheel drive. Made his own bellhousing:

http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?t=9156

G

this is a good site too - someone installing one with Samurai tranny in a Bugeye Sprite - http://www.ado13.com/dohczuke/dohc.htm

this has got me thinking.
what kinda hp do these engines put out and whatdo they weigh?

if I can shed a hundred pounds or so and not loose too much power, i might consider this as a possible motor for my locost

Pound per HP think BEC.


If your state allows it
If Smog laws allow it.
If you can live without reverse....


Otherwise I think it is a FINE build.

mr.peabody.d wrote:Pound per HP think BEC.


If your state allows it
If Smog laws allow it.
If you can live without reverse....


Otherwise I think it is a FINE build.

And if you can find a clutch that holds up.