Not that simple in this case. This bike uses a returnless fuel system with the regulator as part of the pump assy. I don’t have information on the volume and pressure needed or if the pump volts are controlled by the ecu.
If you knew everything (service manual for the bike?), you could make a system using auto application bits and no damper. Mixing up regulators and pumps in a returnless system is generally a bad idea.
I suggest you get a complete rebuild kit for the oem pump system and a bad used pump for the hardware off ebay, then duplicate the oem system in your four gallon tank. Machine a mounting flange to accept the oem pump assy flange and weld it to the bottom of your universal tank.
FYI, all gerotor “44” pumps need a pre-filter as an in-tank or external mount.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/360300869661?e ... SwTepfOs8lThe oem pump assy looks like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334007741098?f ... ondition=4It may be cheaper overall to buy the kit and fab the rest with no oem parts but you won’t have the damper and will have to make a sealing isolator bushing for bringing the positive lead through the tank to the pump.
I’ve made them out of uhmw and ¼ inch machine screws.
Pipe wraps damage/overheat the pipe. Consider a solid sheet of stainless or regular steel (.050” or thinner) with silica mat on the passenger side and an air gap to the heat source.
If the tank is basically under your seat back, about the most practical thing is just to add a silica blanket to fully cover the seat back and bottom. Cover the blanket with a tight weave fabric so the particles do not end up in your lungs forever. Can’t easily isolate the tank when you need access to fill directly unless there were a steel door over it with a metal latch. Consider tank foam compatible with your fuel type, an easy access extinguisher, inertia switch to shut off the pump in a collision and a roll over check valve (like an ‘80s pcv valve) in the vent line.
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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS
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