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Clutch issues
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=23054		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  geoz3 [ September 2, 2022, 7:30 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Clutch issues
Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
The cable housing is the black sheath over the cable. The white part in the hole is the bushing.
The size of the center hole in the white bush would be the same as the cable housing. If using an R1 adjuster, it will match. You may be able to just tap the white bush to accept the r1 adjuster if the plastic is reasonably hard material but I doubt it. You could have the bush made from aluminum instead.

The cable would loop around the pedal pivot boss up to the pedal arm and be secured under a large washer with a 1/4 inch bolt. Don't want to make the hole any bigger than needed to secure the end of the cable.


can I also secure the cable on the pivot bolt, or is that a bad idea?

Would the bush look like this but bigger to fit in firewall hole?
Author:  Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F [ September 2, 2022, 7:38 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Clutch issues
No, the cable cannot be secured to the pivot bolt.

The picture is a one-piece original type R1 adjuster that is secured on the R1 by a wire clip to keep it from rotating. It must be a two-piece adjuster like I linked to.

The adjuster threads into a bushing like this but I do not know if the thread is actually M10-1.25.

It sounds like you should use the MK cable kit instead of modifications though that will not be without modification at the engine side to fit the cable.
Author:  geoz3 [ September 2, 2022, 8:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Clutch issues
Got it, thanks again, if you ever get down to South Florida, let me know, I'll pick up lunch.



George
Author:  geoz3 [ September 3, 2022, 10:12 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Clutch issues
More questions,

Do I thread both the inside and outside of the adjuster bushing to hold it to the firewall and does the adjuster screw into the short end or the long end, does the adjuster go inside or outside the firewall.
Author:  Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F [ September 3, 2022, 4:43 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Clutch issues
You need the two piece adjuster bushing first, to verify the thread pitch.
The threads go all the way through the bush.

The overall length of the bush (I drew 2 inch) should be adjusted to the length of the tube in the firewall plus the thickness of the flange (1/4 thick flange is fine).

The outside of the bush is turned down to just fit in the firewall tube and not threaded.

The bush and the adjuster are in front of the firewall.
The bush just slips into the firewall tube up to the bush flange.
The adjuster threads into the bush.
The r1 cable sheath end sits in the cup of the adjuster.

THE ADJUSTMENT PROCESS
The adjuster is fully threaded into the bush to start with, inserted into the firewall hole from the front, then the cable clamped to the pedal like we've discussed, looping under then up over to be clamped to the pedal.

The adjuster is then rotated ccw in the bush with your fingers to take up any slack in the cable.
Then the "star" shaped nut included with the two piece adjuster is rotated until it contacts the bush to lock the adjuster from turning. This is called a "jamb nut". No tools are needed. It doesn't have to be very tight to hold it. Just finger tight.
Author:  geoz3 [ September 4, 2022, 8:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Clutch issues
Got it..
Author:  geoz3 [ September 4, 2022, 8:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Clutch issues
Does anyone know the travel distance of the clutch lever on the motor, engage to disengage? I have looked for the info everywhere and can't fine it.
Author:  FastG [ September 4, 2022, 10:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Clutch issues
It's a Bowden cable so the movement will be the same both ends. Someone might have modified the lever look for mods like drilling or welding.

Graham
Author:  Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F [ September 5, 2022, 6:42 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Clutch issues
Geo,

A more car like clutch application is the opposite of needing more throw at the engine. If after adjusting, the car lurches forward when you engage first from neutral, more swing travel of the pedal is needed and/or you must settle for the pinch bolt location (use a clevis) for the cable (for practical reasons). An inline ratio adjuster could be made but that is more complicated. I would not alter the engine arm to change the pin location.

Does the pedal UP stop allow the pad to come back even with the brake pad? If not, you might consider removing the UP stop bolt on your pedal for a wrap around UP stop like this one and also an MK Indy. Just a 2x1/8 strip of aluminum or steel bent and drilled with a piece of rubber (like fuel hose) split and placed over the edge to cushion.

Pictures and vids are always helpful.
Author:  geoz3 [ September 5, 2022, 8:05 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Clutch issues
Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Geo,

A more car like clutch application is the opposite of needing more throw at the engine. If after adjusting, the car lurches forward when you engage first from neutral, more swing travel of the pedal is needed and/or you must settle for the pinch bolt location (use a clevis) for the cable (for practical reasons). An inline ratio adjuster could be made but that is more complicated. I would not alter the engine arm to change the pin location.

Does the pedal UP stop allow the pad to come back even with the brake pad? If not, you might consider removing the UP stop bolt on your pedal for a wrap around UP stop like this one and also an MK Indy. Just a 2x1/8 strip of aluminum or steel bent and drilled with a piece of rubber (like fuel hose) split and placed over the edge to cushion.

Pictures and vids are always helpful.



Yesterday I removed the pedal, drilled a hole an inch above the pivot point, routed the cable under the pivot point, secured it to the new location, and lost 50% of the lever travel at the motor. I pulled the pedal full stop towards the driver, made a pedal stop on the firewall, and moved the cable back to its original position, and it's much better than it had been, a few Trys of take-off, and no stalls. I'm going to order the adjuster, MK cable, and have adapter fabricated and try to fix it the correct way. The lever at the motor looks original according to video's on youtube, and my Haynes manual. I'll report back once I get everything completed.

I was thinking about a rod setup but needed to figure out how much lever travel at the motor I need to achieve engage disengage, but as I said, can't find it. It seems to be working well at the moment, so I'll measure the travel and take that as correct and continue to ponder how to do a rod setup. It's a good exercise for an old man's brain cells...LOL
Author:  FastG [ September 5, 2022, 8:25 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Clutch issues
Don't forget with a cable operated clutch you MUST ALWAYS have a little slack in the cable when
At rest. If not the nipple on the and of the clutch drum will weld itself to the linkage.

Graham
Author:  Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F [ September 5, 2022, 9:31 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Clutch issues
Thanks for the reminder Fastg.

It sounds like the pedal ratio is barely adequate for the R1 with no margin.
The adjuster is included with the mk cable so no fabrication except fitting cable ends that don't slip off.
I'd probably mod the UP stop for a little more pedal rotation.
The pedal pivot height makes increasing the throw difficult.

You could fit an "EZ Pull" inline backwards, so instead of making it easier to pull, it can give you more throw. It doesn't need to be mounted to anything and you just need to make the cables work. Just another consideration.

Ideally, there would be a little excess travel available but limited by the down stop, but to MK's credit, they are making a universal pedal assy to fit a variety of BEC donors.
Author:  geoz3 [ September 5, 2022, 4:31 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Clutch issues
Thanks for the info.


George
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