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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 26, 2021, 8:57 pm 
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Still plugging away on the details. Finished fab of dash panels and mounting of instruments/switches. Final trimming/fitting to be done once final welds completed. Flat black paint to follow.

Wanted to keep the dash layout as simple and clean as possible but limited by the truss structure integral to the dash hoop. All indicator lights are on the speedo. Rocker switch labels are engraved and backlit. A battery disconnect “Off” label will be added. The lower panel has the Run/Start/Off toggle and 12v/USB power ports. A proximity fob is used instead of an ignition key.
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Great source for Carling rocker switches: spemco.com
and for custom switch cover labels: rockerswitchpros.com

Finishing seat mounts is next project.

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: February 27, 2021, 6:03 am 
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Looks good. Like the radiused tunnel. I prefer carlington but it adds up. You may want to add a theft deterrent since prox fobs make it easier to steal, such as an ignition cutout toggle or momentary for the start position. This way they draw attention with the starter and think it's just hard to start but it never does.

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PostPosted: February 27, 2021, 2:50 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Looks good. Like the radiused tunnel. I prefer carlington but it adds up. You may want to add a theft deterrent since prox fobs make it easier to steal, such as an ignition cutout toggle or momentary for the start position. This way they draw attention with the starter and think it's just hard to start but it never does.
Thanks, MV8. Guess I should look at the anti-theft side of things a bit more.

As currently drawn, the proximity fob and keyless module act as a simple ignition-on switch activating a Coach Power Center. The keyless module is powered from the Run side of the Start/Run/Off toggle.

The Coach Power Center provides ignition-on to the ECU (after passing through a secondary on-off circuit in the battery disconnect switch.)

With ignition-on, the Power Center also feeds the start-side (momentary) of the start/run/off toggle. The start trigger also runs through a neutral safety switch.

So as drawn, the engine won’t crank and the car won’t push start without the battery disconnect “on,” the toggle in the “Run” position and the proximity fob present. The battery disconnect “key” is certainly not secure. Is the proximity fob insecure as well, and hence the need for a hidden ignition cutout toggle?

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: February 27, 2021, 4:21 pm 
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https://www.popularmechanics.com/techno ... bluetooth/

They say a manual trans is one of the biggest deterrent these days.

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PostPosted: February 28, 2021, 2:00 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
https://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/security/a29835980/technology-theft-rfid-bluetooth/

They say a manual trans is one of the biggest deterrent these days.
Thanks for the heads-up, MV8. Looks like my education had stopped at Hotwire 101.
Think I'll be adding a hidden cutout switch in my prox fob circuit.

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: March 7, 2021, 7:13 pm 
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Seats mounting is complete. Needed to re-do the floor mounting plates and reshape the seat mount br@ck^ts to max out leg room and set seat angle. Fiddly stuff in tight quarters and awkward work angles.
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Still need to optimize the mounting location for the sub-strap(s), but otherwise done.
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With the seats solid-mounted vroom-vroom sessions are much improved. :D

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: March 7, 2021, 8:29 pm 
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Neat and clean Tom! Great progress.

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PostPosted: March 22, 2021, 12:02 am 
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More boring cockpit details. This time a heel rest. Original plan was to raise the floor to the top of the 1" tubes, but my feet fit better with heels resting on the lower floor. This also gave me a little more room under the steering wheel. (Need to stop working on those quads :roll: )

First step was to add some t@bs:
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And then the heel rest.
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Followed of course by a very satisfactory vroom-vroom session. :D

Next up are the head rest mounts.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: March 28, 2021, 1:56 pm 
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With the seats mounted, more cockpit details getting done.

Given the low-back seats I am using, headrests are a safety requirement. Had previously purchased a nice pair of Suzuki halo-style headrests which I liked for their light weight, simplicity and design. They use a two post mounting system. Then things got complicated with the Car9 roll hoop bulkhead which is a major structural component carrying the rear suspension arms, the diff and an integrated harness bar. Given the seat position, the headrests needed to mount to or through the harness bar which impacted shoulder harness routing. So opted instead for a pair of Mustang GT halo-style headrests which use a single mounting post. Pricey and heavier but allowed me to move ahead.

Welded mounting br@ck^ts to the harness bar and through bolted the aluminum posts using steel c-channel caps on the backside. Set the headrest height where needed and cut the extra 1.5” off the post bottoms.
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Vroom-vroom sessions are much safer now :D
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Next step is to fab a mounting box for the high-mount rear brake light which hopefully reduces the usage of the headrests. :ack:

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: March 28, 2021, 5:03 pm 
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seattletom wrote:
So opted instead for a pair of Mustang GT....


The nice thing about those as well, in theory anway, is they'll help neutralize some of the GM gear you've using *cough* engine *cough*, and make your car faster. :D

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PostPosted: March 29, 2021, 12:21 am 
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Trochu wrote:
seattletom wrote:
So opted instead for a pair of Mustang GT....


The nice thing about those as well, in theory anway, is they'll help neutralize some of the GM gear you've using *cough* engine *cough*, and make your car faster. :D


Ha Ha Ha I thought the General and Henry learned to play nicely together years ago!

BTW Tom thats a nice clean install on those head rests. :cheers:

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PostPosted: March 29, 2021, 2:03 am 
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Trochu wrote:
seattletom wrote:
So opted instead for a pair of Mustang GT....
The nice thing about those as well, in theory anway, is they'll help neutralize some of the GM gear you've using *cough* engine *cough*, and make your car faster. :D
horchoha wrote:
Ha Ha Ha I thought the General and Henry learned to play nicely together years ago!
BTW Tom thats a nice clean install on those head rests. :cheers:
Thanks guys. Those headrests live happily right above the Mustang Cobra IRS diff, so its all in the family back there. Now if both ends of the driveshaft can work together... :roll:

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: March 29, 2021, 11:57 am 
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Tom, it's hard to tell from the photos, but is there any chance your neck can contact the tube before the back of your head touches the headrest? If so, can you make it so the back of your head is guaranteed to strike the headrest before your neck touches the steel? Maybe it could be done with a spacer on your current mount?

You probably have thought about that already. However, it's not clear from the photo.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: March 29, 2021, 12:48 pm 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
Tom, it's hard to tell from the photos, but is there any chance your neck can contact the tube before the back of your head touches the headrest? If so, can you make it so the back of your head is guaranteed to strike the headrest before your neck touches the steel? Maybe it could be done with a spacer on your current mount?

You probably have thought about that already. However, it's not clear from the photo.
Good question, Lonnie. The short answer is I don't think so but anything is possible in an accident. The long answer is this safety stuff gets interesting.

My seat back slopes back about 10 degrees and my shoulders are above the harness bar and forward of it by several inches. The shoulder harness slopes down from my shoulders to the top of the bar between 10 and 20 degrees as prescribed. The back of my head with helmet is close to, but does not rest on, the headrest in vroom-vroom position, so my head stands well clear without a helmet. When I lean my helmetless head back it contacts the upper portion of the headrest first. I don't think my neck could contact the harness bar without a lot of other really traumatic things happening. :ack:

That said, I personally don't like headrests that push my head forward and chin down, so I designed around that, although the mount could be shimmed to rotate the headrest forward. For track use both the seats and the headrests are removable and can be replaced with a proper high-back racing seats if desired.

Here's hoping I never find out the hard way.

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: March 29, 2021, 5:08 pm 
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seattletom wrote:
A mini-milestone was made during lockdown. :D A front fender got mounted today! Well, only the left one, and only 95% done. But progress is progress!

First off, acknowledgements to Perry for his fender mounting approach which I copied slavishly.

Starting with the br@ck^t posted last week, the fender stay's radial legs were welded on.
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Using the Flintstone tire + clearance jig made last week, the fender was laid on
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and horizontal support bars were fitted to the fender and fish-mouthed to match-up with the radial legs. IIRC, Perry uses a mitered cut for this joint, but a coped butt joint was easier in my case.
Here's with the wood jig removed:
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and yes, the legs need to be trimmed. :oops:

With the fender off, Here's the stay:
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After finish welding the joints, the legs will get trimmed to length, gussets added to the inside of the corners and bevels cut and capped on the outside corners. Rivnuts and button-head screws will replace the Cleco pins.

Perry, I think you triangulate with a brace between the two legs. Given that my bracket bolts to the spindle below the UBJ, if I add triangulation the brace would have to be removable to be able to take the fender stay assembly off without unbolting the UBJ. There is some triangulation at the base of the front leg already and the fender itself adds a triangulation effect. Do you recommend I add a brace between the two legs?

It’s starting to look like a car.
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With rubber tires it would be a roller. :roll:


Tom, I was looking at build photos for front fender mounting and found yours. What dia tubes did you use for the fender stays? And how much clearance did you decide on to clear the tires?

Thanks,
Thom


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